zukiru Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 I went to napa and they got a new o-ring but i had an old one to help match it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOsborn Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 Thanks, ended up sourcing a new o-ring since the old one was mangled. Also, making progress slightly, thought a few setbacks. One intake manifold bolt broke off in the head. My tried and true method of heat + a LH drill bit didn't work. So off to order a slightly bigger LH bit and try again. Worse case scenario is a heli coil. Not too bad, but kind of annoying and time consuming. Replacing water pump as well. Only issue is the crank pulley is being a bear to get off. It'll come off, just back to the garage for some more swearing and heavy metal music to help coax it off of there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 i dont remember what trans you have, but if its a manual put it in 4wd(lo if ya got it) 5th gear w e brake on. if its an auto first of all, my apologies for having to run that, do the breaker bar/bump the starter method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOsborn Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 It's a manual. That was the first thing I tried, ended up slowly scooting my car across the garage, even with it in 5th with ebrake on. It'll come off, just more coaxing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibreakstuff Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Thanks, ended up sourcing a new o-ring since the old one was mangled. Also, making progress slightly, thought a few setbacks. One intake manifold bolt broke off in the head. My tried and true method of heat + a LH drill bit didn't work. So off to order a slightly bigger LH bit and try again. Worse case scenario is a heli coil. Not too bad, but kind of annoying and time consuming. Replacing water pump as well. Only issue is the crank pulley is being a bear to get off. It'll come off, just back to the garage for some more swearing and heavy metal music to help coax it off of there! Re the crank pulley: If you have a 2-3 foot breaker bar, you can prop it against the subframe near the battery and bump the starter (key it for only a split second) and it will break loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOsborn Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 ^going to use that as a last resort. I don't really like "not being in control" of my tightening/loosening of hardware. Though I bet it works! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 wedge the wheels? the bolt wont back out and fall off as long as you disconnect the coil wire. only bump it for a second. itll be broke loose. the important thing is to brace the breaker bar in such a way as to not let it swing at all when you crank it. ive done this to subarus dozens of times and the only damage was when i forgot to pull the punch out (and that was assembly, not dis assembly) you retain control if the coil cant fire the plugs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibreakstuff Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 I use a rag or a paper bag to wedge the socket onto the crank bolt to keep it from falling out/stripping as well. It sounds a lot more scary than it is lol. The alternative would be to wedge something into the flywheel.Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 I have a special tool. Well actually its a screw driver that fits the hole in the flywheel. Its tip is gone and it has a bend it but it works wonderfully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOsborn Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 Well, intake is now fully on and hooked up! Just water pump left to do now. Heli-coil on cyl head went very well (easiest one I've ever done). Now that head has two heli coils in it, as it stripped an exhaust stud hole earlier. While torquing the intake on, I think I may have stripped the threads on one of the shorter bolts. I found a torque spec that said 35ft-lbs, so I went with that. Once the first bolt felt like it may be stripping, I backed off and instead torqued all intake bolts to 20-25ft-lbs. Should still seal fine, if not, rip it off and heli-coil some more! (might as well get some good use out of the $40 kit...) Here's the engine bay as it sat early yesterday, all cleaned up and ready to start going back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOsborn Posted May 11, 2013 Author Share Posted May 11, 2013 Back together! Good news is, it runs, and doesn't leak any liquids. Bad news is, I somehow picked up an exhaust leak (probably has something to do with EGR as that's the only exhaust thing I touched), and I think I have a leak in the intake somewhere as when under boost it sounds a bit louder. My old water pump was completely not a pump anymore, so glad to have a new one installed. Glad it runs though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpholz Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 Could it be the under torqued intake bolts that are your intake leak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOsborn Posted May 11, 2013 Author Share Posted May 11, 2013 ^Anything is possible. I'm guessing old vacuum line is leaking somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOsborn Posted May 11, 2013 Author Share Posted May 11, 2013 And it's fixed, EGR was acting a bit leaky in both intake/exhaust. Runs like a top now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOsborn Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 (edited) Decided to pull the plugs today for a check, not too happy with what I found. Both passenger side plugs look a bit lean, while the driver side plugs look fine. Hmm...may be time to compression test it. Edited May 20, 2013 by TOsborn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOsborn Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 (edited) Decided to replace the plugs (haven't in the 15k+ miles I've owned the car, and who knows how long they've been in there) and fuel filter today. Car seems to love the new stuff, as it smoothed out the idle a bit more. Runs like a darn top now. After some further thought, I determined it's not running lean, just very worn out plugs. A few hundred miles then check again and I'll know for sure. And here's a photo of the engine bay post intake swap. Not quite entirely scrubbed clean, but getting there! Looks a million times better than when I bought it. Edited May 22, 2013 by TOsborn 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOsborn Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 After some thought today, decided that since the car is now running better than ever (it loved the new plugs and filter) it's time to pass it on so someone else can enjoy it. Plus Quattro San keeps staring at me from under a tarp begging me to start working on it. So, for sale time! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138521-1986-subaru-gl-hatch-ea82t/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOsborn Posted June 24, 2013 Author Share Posted June 24, 2013 Car is still up for sale, but in the meantime it has been performing flawlessly, as usual. Took it down to the Nameless Rally in Shelton this weekend. Great time, and really good stage viewing areas! The GL fit right in line in the spectator parking area: Also, if I still own the car late next month, I plan on entering the ORG rallycross at Chehalis with it. I've spectated at enough rallies, and it's about darn time I tried competitive driving in the dirt. I've done a ton of AutoX events in FSAE (formula styled) race cars on pavement, but the dirt looks like a hoot and a half. Only thing I would like to fix before then is to put some more negative camber in the front end, as the stock 1-2 degrees of positive is horrible for any kind of cornering. Any advice at adding camber adjustment is welcome, but I've also got a few ideas... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Something tells me after you rally that car, that Quattro san will have a new destiny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOsborn Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 Well, hopefully QS will still end up a street car. I checked up on it recently in storage, it's still hiding well! Tested the efan switch tonight in a pot of boiling water, works well so I stripped out the toggle switch and wiring I added during my drive to LA. Cleans things up a bit more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nobangmycar Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 Very cool ride. Enjoyed reading your thread man. I almost bought one of these last week, but settled on a sedan that was ten times cheaper and ten times better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpholz Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 Idk, from the looks of it this 3dr is pretty clean. Hard to imagine 10x better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 Car is still up for sale, but in the meantime it has been performing flawlessly, as usual. Took it down to the Nameless Rally in Shelton this weekend. Great time, and really good stage viewing areas! The GL fit right in line in the spectator parking area: Also, if I still own the car late next month, I plan on entering the ORG rallycross at Chehalis with it. I've spectated at enough rallies, and it's about darn time I tried competitive driving in the dirt. I've done a ton of AutoX events in FSAE (formula styled) race cars on pavement, but the dirt looks like a hoot and a half. Only thing I would like to fix before then is to put some more negative camber in the front end, as the stock 1-2 degrees of positive is horrible for any kind of cornering. Any advice at adding camber adjustment is welcome, but I've also got a few ideas... Should have come to the service area. I was working one of the timing tables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ystrdyisgone Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Idk, from the looks of it this 3dr is pretty clean. Hard to imagine 10x better I think he was referring to 10x better than the one he looked at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOsborn Posted August 23, 2013 Author Share Posted August 23, 2013 (edited) Back in Tacoma for the weekend, looking to get a lot of work done on both this and QS. Garage full of 4wd turbo cars. My dad and I made some custom EA82 front lower control arms, adjusted with shims. Going to be installed tomorrow on the blue car for testing. Edited August 23, 2013 by TOsborn 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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