Engine runs fine - put my 220,000 mile 02 OBW H6 VDC automatic in drive and it stalled the engine immediately when put into gear - not even a hint of movement.

Drifts fine in neutral.

I tried putting it in drive while revving the engine and it engaged, it felt very jumpy and shaky though (but don't really recall noises, though it was short) so I turned it off nearly immediately, only drove a few feet down the driveway. Didn't trust it to get me back if i went anywhere.

 

I've had a growling noise up front - like possible front differential isues. Fluid level is good.

But it never made any clackety clack noises like I've heard other failed front diffs make.

 

Can the diff lock up in such a way to stall the engine but still be able to roll around fine in neutral? 

If so - what is that failure mode look like internally? 

The pinion gets "stuck"?

Wonder if the TC lock-up function is somehow engaged? 

hmmm, how would i test that - put it in drive and immediately let off the brake?

as long as it's allowed to go then that shouldn't stall it?

i don't have much more driveway to test. LOL

Edited August 14, 201312 yr by grossgary

wow GG, that seems weird. Any AT or CEL lights?

 

this is a longshot but, maybe try a batt cable disconnect type reset?

wow GG, that seems weird. Any AT or CEL lights?

 

this is a longshot but, maybe try a batt cable disconnect type reset?

 

The normal P0420 for 100,000 miles. LOL

 

I didn't check this morning but a week or two ago it had a check engine light for P0732 and P0734 for transmission shifting.  I assume front diff related - front and rear speeds not matching.  I didn't check this morning.

No AT lights...funny for the ECU to have a trans code but not the AT?

 

If it is the front diff though - wouldn't the rear wheels at least move the car?

It's a VDC model but the VDC was disabled about a year ago - I never looked into why.

Edited August 14, 201312 yr by grossgary

The normal P0420 for 100,000 miles. LOL

 

I didn't check this morning but a week or two ago it had a check engine light for P0732 and P0734 for transmission shifting.  I assume front diff related - front and rear speeds not matching.  I didn't check this morning.

No AT lights...funny for the ECU to have a trans code but not the AT?

 

If it is the front diff though - wouldn't the rear wheels at least move the car?

It's a VDC model but the VDC was disabled about a year ago - I never looked into why.

I'd guess the front diff would have to break enough that something was slipping before you'd get RWD. If you wanted to force it, you could remove an axle (but not the stub - still need to seal the diff.)

 

But, the above would be a poor substitute for an actual repair!

i was already making progress to convert it to RWD. it's not sounding good but with VDC disabled maybe it's not sending anything to the rear and i'll get lucky and be able to convert it still?

 

it'll work fine for me. I only need two with snow tires and 4wd, which i already have. i don't have time, i'd just like 6 months to a year in RWD then fix it.

Been there done that sound like planetarys have let go or front diff have seen two h6s eatup the trans ether front diff when the berrings go out the awd jams into the rear case and causes lockup or planetays are piled up anyway take pan off and look for debries and start looking for used trans

Been there done that sound like planetarys have let go or front diff have seen two h6s eatup the trans ether front diff when the berrings go out the awd jams into the rear case and causes lockup or planetays are piled up anyway take pan off and look for debries and start looking for used trans

ivans - since the front diff was whining then mine is probably the front diff right? 

or maybe the loose pinion due to front bearing being bad damaged something else?

why wouldn't the rear have any power?

because the pinion is conected to awd and can interfear with awd jams up and can damage awd drum

Blah blah blah

Edited August 16, 201312 yr by presslab

If it were the lock-up mechanism you could start it in N, push it to get it going, then drop it in D. Theoretically.

How about getting all 4 wheels off the ground? Put it in D with your foot off the brake- if it doesn't stall, and then does when you apply the brakes and stop the wheels from turning, it's most likely the TC is locked, and the symptoms will be just like a stick shift car where you can't disengage the clutch. I'm liking presslab's logic here.

i did try starting and putting it into gear while simultaneously letting off the brake - so it would see no resistance hopefully - and it still stalled.  didn't get it off the ground though..but about the same concept.

Ya right locked is locked it may break lose but break being key word Tear it down and fix it takes me about 1 -3 hours to go thru that trans is very easy to teardown. Has no band or drum to fight. If you need hard parts i have 4 core phase two 4eats

 Tear it down and fix it takes me about 1 -3 hours to go thru that trans is very easy to teardown. Has no band or drum to fight. If you need hard parts i have 4 core phase two 4eats

 

Are any of yours 4.11 final drive like the H6 trans?  (subaru part number is same for impreza and H6 ring and pinion)

 

I'll likely need ring and pinion - anything else?

are you shure its 4.11 ? If so I dont have one all mine are 4.44 you may have hard time finding a 4.11 darn oly have outback / and forester trans

are you shure its 4.11 ?

all H6's (at least in US) are 4.11.  same Subaru part number ring/pinion as early 2000's imprezas with 4.11 - have any impreza's with 4.11?

thanks ivan

nope sorry all 4.44

Legacy H4 4EATs have 4.11, I'm pretty sure.