+1 - block is easily carried.  heads make it heavier and more awkward.

a block is easy- reach right in the cylinder bores.

Might need to change oil pan

Looks like a 94-96 to me lol.

 

Oh and to the coolant pipe for the ej25d heads, you'll need the one from the water pump that feeds to the heater core.  Thats the only one that needs to be changed.  The bracket that hold the timing belt tensioner will either need to be modified, metal tab that the bolt goes through to the ej22 timing cover needs to go away.

Edited November 25, 201312 yr by 86BRATMAN

Looks like a 94-96 to me lol. Oh and to the coolant pipe for the ej25d heads, you'll need the one from the water pump that feeds to the heater core.  Thats the only one that needs to be changed.  The bracket that hold the timing belt tensioner will either need to be modified, metal tab that the bolt goes through to the ej22 timing cover needs to go away.

I will check this out.. it's a auto motor but putting the dohc heads back on.

Since you have a complete ej25d to begin with, like I did, you'll see what I'm talking about on that bracket.  I may have it backwards been a few months since I built mine and a lot of stuff has gone on in between lol.  Basically, anything when the long block is done it should look exactly like the 25d did.

It's like a black funny looking bracket? Not much time to play with it today.. maybe in the morning tomorrow.

 

good job!

replace the oil pan, they will rust through, i have one that's leaking and needs replaced right now, the car is undrivable.  the EJ25 pan fits the EJ22. 

good job!

replace the oil pan, they will rust through, i have one that's leaking and needs replaced right now, the car is undrivable.  the EJ25 pan fits the EJ22. 

gotta be from the rust belt.

I've had a brand new ej22 pan since 2008 still in the box so that's taken care of

The metal oil separator plate I put on my EJ25 about 2 years ago.. I used anaerobic sealant.. can you remove the plate without messing up the plate? I'd hate to have to buy another almost $30 plate.

 

While the motor is out I plan on getting new stock motor mounts

Edited November 27, 201312 yr by 1-3-2-4

Anerobic sealant that's REALLY tough to pull apart can easily be separated with heat. I had an oil pan my Saab (that I sealed a year before) that REFUSED to come apart. Took my propane bottle attached to MAPP gas torch tip, heated the pan in several spots and after 5 minutes it popped right off. Hopefully that helps with the plate.

Anerobic sealant that's REALLY tough to pull apart can easily be separated with heat. I had an oil pan my Saab (that I sealed a year before) that REFUSED to come apart. Took my propane bottle attached to MAPP gas torch tip, heated the pan in several spots and after 5 minutes it popped right off. Hopefully that helps with the plate.

Thanks for the tip I will try that, after this anerobic runs out I'm going to get the one that goes in the gun

those separator plates are small and easy enough to get to, i doubt you'll have much problem getting it off.

I just don't want to pry and warp it, If I can remember I remember it's kind of thick

Got the pan off, the screws are fine, oil pickup had a lot of things stuck on it more so then I've seen in other peoples pictures..

 

In my replacement pan it comes with a gasket for the oil return but it comes with two smaller gaskets which I can't figure out where they go.. I thought they would of been where the oil pickup goes with those two screws.

 

 

Does that gasket on the oil pickup tube need to be replaced?

 

Edited November 28, 201312 yr by 1-3-2-4

oil pick up tube gasket should definitely be replaced.

Oh well now I have to wait a few days until it arrives

Since this engine has been sitting for who knows how long.. when you have the pan off should I squirt a little oil on the bottom end? I'm not sure how long it takes a full dry system to prime with oil

you can try - i doubt oil will really get into the bearing journals though.  someone else will probably have a good idea?

 

old school subarus you could spin the oil pump by hand to get oil moving first before installing the timing belts, can't do that with newer geneartion EJ motors.

 

prime it properly without starting it.  no fuel - turn engine over.

 

This is the Ej25 I'm not sure oil got anyplace else other then almost on me, if I remember right the injectors wont spray fuel in the cylinders if the coil pack is disconnected right?

Hey all, looking at a used ej22 for a project performance build, came out of a 90 legacy wagon and has 194,000. No cracked heads, and its tore down. Asking price is 200.00. Is this a good year to re-build for power. Would be going into my 97 Impreza obs.

I have a question should I or should I not replace the seals for the cross over pipe for the coolant? Now on myself I've never replaced any and my EJ25 had 265K on it.. I only ask because I heard those bolts that hold the pipe down have a habit of snapping.

Damn plug for the engine block heater rounded out.. My Ej25D has a block heater.. Only thing I can think of is wielding a socket on it and getting it off that way, but then someone said a stay current can wield the bearings of the motor? First I've ever heard of that..