Iv been reading that some people take there front axles out and run the transmission in 4WD and it makes there car RWD. My question is does it wurt the transmission or does it seem to hold up to that? I seems fun and it is totally reversible. 

It's not quite as easy as just pulling the front axles. The front axles hold the hub and rotor. You would need to separate the the outer cup from the axle then, replace it and re install the 36mm castle nut, cone washer, and flat washer. Once all of that is done you will have "RWD" 

 

Not sure if anyone has done this, so I don't know how long it would hold up. But I don't see why it wouldn't work, as people blow front CVs and run in 4wd to get home.

 

Best bet would to buy some axles to remove the outer cup on, and keep your good axles for when you feel like having FWD/4WD again.

I have my EA81 wagon set up like this right as I type. There is only the need to pull one front axle as the power will be transferred to the side with least traction.(the side with no axle).

 

This will put unnecessary stress on the transfer gears in your transmission, It will hold for a bit but I wouldn't recommend relying on it for more then a few quick bouts of fun!

 

The transmission simply isnt designed to take all the force and send it to the rear,considering its base design is front wheel drive. But yes,it is fun! and mostly reversible.

 

 

                                                                                  This thread should be moved to its corresponding forum 

Edited January 5, 201412 yr by 81EA81

I run mine as described above, but with both front axles removed for equal drag on the remaining parts left to right and a LSD in te back.  Granted, this is faaaaar from a daily driver at this point, but it has held up to my fairly severe abuse with little complaint.  Well, there is a whole bunch of wheel hop...

what do you get the LSD diff from I would love to do this to my crazy little brat. here is what it looks like now and im going lower.

murder it out...

You do know that your car will handle dangerously if the control arms are, or are near, parallel with the ground, correct?

 

It does look nice sitting still though.

Edited January 9, 201412 yr by carfreak85

i have not heard that before, why is that?

it seems to handle ok right now but I have only put a few miles on it. why do you say that? I have seen a lot of cars suspension set up that way.

What that means is that when the suspension goes into compression during heavy cornering, the bottom of the wheel will be tucking under bringing it into positive camber. That, combined with body roll, may have you plowing straight ahead, skating on the edge of your rim, when you have to swerve or take a fast corner. Now, having the car lowered is going to offset this, to a point. As is the stiffness of your springs. But it's something you should be aware of and, at the very least, test out in an empty parking lot in slow, careful increments. Ideally, you should relocate the inner lower control arm mounts up equivalent to how much it is lowered... I know, stuff is in the way and it involves welding. I think there are also adapters to lower the outer end at the ball joint, but that sounds sketchy to me. Anyway, what you want to achieve is getting the bottom of the wheel to thrust out on compression to corner safely and counteract the positive camber that body roll inevitably brings with it.

Good looking Brat though... brings back memories...

Oh, I meant to add, I had an 86 hatch that I put an EA82t in which was stock except for a brake spring on the wastegate (12 psi). It had manual steering so the torque steer was terrible in FWD. Had outer front axle stubbs that I swapped in every summer and did that 4 or 5 years. Took plenty of holeshots and even had 15" pugs, never had a failure. Now if I could have found an LSD... that might have broke something!