2002 H6 EZ30 that has like 60 hex bolts for the timing chain cover. only one out of the first 10 i tried came loose.

 

if i spend 10 minutes drilling each one out - it'll take me 10 hours just to remove the timing chain cover, that's fairly absurd.

 

i'll try a chisel first to see if i can get each one to nudge.

 

any reasonable solution to remove these bolts quickly? 

surely Subaru and shops are not drilling out 50 bolts?

 

 

i just read a write up of this and the fellow had to drill the heads off a bunch of them. when the cover was off i think he was able to grab the studs and turn them out. took awhile from what i remember.

 

pretty detailed post of HG repair is here if it helps.

 

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/88-head-gasket-issues/26887-h6-head-gasket-replacement-5.html

I've found an impact driver works great for getting small rusty bolts and screws out without breaking them. Might be worth a try.

50/50 mix of acetone and ATF in a squirt bottle. Spray on let sit, use hand held impact driver. Works like a charm. 

crack, yes the impact driver!  thanks!  perfect.

i have one for TPS screws and rotor screws that need drilled out 110% of the time around here. lol

 

copy, i'll spray them (i have some YIELD) anduse an impact driver. where do i get a torx bit for an impact driver? 

i guess an online search will point the way, i'll check it out when i'm not on dial up?

 

indeed, i've seen those H6 timing chain/headgasket threads multiple times, probably replied in it.  my problem isn't drilling a few, my problem is drilling just about ALL of them!  plenty of rust around here so i'm accustomed to drilling and have left handed high grade bits, torches, YIELD, welder...all of which i've used to get rusty bolts out.

Edited January 19, 201412 yr by grossgary

Usually the conical bit holder end of the impact driver comes off and there is a 3/8" square drive. Find a torx bit with a 3/8" drive socket and pop it right on.

 

That combined with your favorite flavor of rust penetrant should get the majority of them.

Usually the conical bit holder end of the impact driver comes off and there is a 3/8" square drive. Find a torx bit with a 3/8" drive socket and pop it right on.

 

That combined with your favorite flavor of rust penetrant should get the majority of them.

He needs to check the end first.  Mine is a 1/2" drive instead of a 3/8 but the same answer applies even if he needs to use a adapeter down to 3/8. 

I use a outside striped bolt grabber comes from craftsman or snap on grabs the outside instead of inside for better hold and a smaller one can be sued on the shaft of broken bolt after cover is removed

crack, yes the impact driver!  thanks!  perfect.

i have one for TPS screws and rotor screws that need drilled out 110% of the time around here. lol

 

copy, i'll spray them (i have some YIELD) anduse an impact driver. where do i get a torx bit for an impact driver? 

i guess an online search will point the way, i'll check it out when i'm not on dial up?

 

indeed, i've seen those H6 timing chain/headgasket threads multiple times, probably replied in it.  my problem isn't drilling a few, my problem is drilling just about ALL of them!  plenty of rust around here so i'm accustomed to drilling and have left handed high grade bits, torches, YIELD, welder...all of which i've used to get rusty bolts out.

 

I truly did not realize that dial-up internet was still a thing. 

I've only been off dial-up a couple years, no cable, no DSL, sure as heck no fiber, satellite's a scam, finally had to go with a 3G modem (verizon mifi).

have 3 h6 3.0 cores

do you ship parts ivans, i'll keep those cores in mind?

 

I truly did not realize that dial-up internet was still a thing. 

indeed, you're not alone. i have to explain it like 3 different ways before friends finally get that we can not get internet, cable, DSL, cell phone service, nothing.  they think i'm saying we don't sign up for it - but it's simply not available or an option where we live.  there are no lines or reception.

 

until a few years ago, google maps and GPS couldn't locate our house so family/friends using it would get lost.

 

i mentioned to a couple next to us at a restaurant that i hadn't watched TV in 10 years because they were talking about a show playing at the joint, and when you don't watch for 10 years you don't even know the names of shows any more.  they started laughing and didn't believe me.

WOW.  found a method to get them out besides drilling but they're too far gone for everything mentioned.  Nothing works.

 

I used a chisel.  Knock a perpendicular "Vee" shape into the outside of the bolt. Pound the side of the V to loosen the bolt.  Not too steep of an angle or the bolt metal just shaves off. That worked on a few in a row so that will get them out.

 

Be careful to leave plenty of room that you're not close to hitting the aluminum timing cover.  Plan on the bolt "turning" some too before it's loose.  It'll mash/wedge the metal up a good 90 degrees of the bolt head before it finally loosens, so you'll work your way around to close to the timing cover in some case...or start over and get a deeper cut to dig into so you're not pushing the metal along/shaving it and actually loosen it.

 

Maybe i'll take a picture of one to show how to do it.  I think it beats drilling.

WOW.  found a method to get them out besides drilling but they're too far gone for everything mentioned.  Nothing works.

 

I used a chisel.  Knock a perpendicular "Vee" shape into the outside of the bolt. Pound the side of the V to loosen the bolt.  Not too steep of an angle or the bolt metal just shaves off. That worked on a few in a row so that will get them out.

 

Be careful to leave plenty of room that you're not close to hitting the aluminum timing cover.  Plan on the bolt "turning" some too before it's loose.  It'll mash/wedge the metal up a good 90 degrees of the bolt head before it finally loosens, so you'll work your way around to close to the timing cover in some case...or start over and get a deeper cut to dig into so you're not pushing the metal along/shaving it and actually loosen it.

 

Maybe i'll take a picture of one to show how to do it.  I think it beats drilling.

 

I'd like to see a picture, for sure. I'm having trouble visualizing.

 

I know I'll have to get the cover off on my wife's 2002 LL Bean eventually...

I'd like to see a picture, for sure. I'm having trouble visualizing.

 

I know I'll have to get the cover off on my wife's 2002 LL Bean eventually...

 

i attempted a write up - i posted pictures of the results, but not me holding the hammer/chisel and orientation but it's fairly simple really.  just imagine hitting that bolt in the picture "down aiming right towards the center of the bolt to create the first notch.  then angling the chisel towards the edge of the notch you created to give it an impact area to "loosen" on the next strike...or three. 

 

takes one or two hits to create the V

then 1 - 5 to loosen.

 

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/122882-alternate-method-removing-stubborn-rusty-seized-bolts.html#post1309338

Edited February 4, 201412 yr by grossgary

i attempted a write up - i posted pictures of the results, but not me holding the hammer/chisel and orientation but it's fairly simple really.  just imagine hitting that bolt in the picture "down aiming right towards the center of the bolt to create the first notch.  then angling the chisel towards the edge of the notch you created to give it an impact area to "loosen" on the next strike...or three. 

 

takes one or two hits to create the V

then 1 - 5 to loosen.

 

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/122882-alternate-method-removing-stubborn-rusty-seized-bolts.html#post1309338

 

Perfect. I must've read through the first time before I had my coffee....

 

The pictures make it pretty clear. Thanks!

Have 3    3.0 l cores if cover is to far gone

where the H6's bad with headgaskets as well during those years?   just wondering if maybe periodically lubricating those bolts would help prevent corrosion and difficulties removing later?

where the H6's bad with headgaskets as well during those years?   just wondering if maybe periodically lubricating those bolts would help prevent corrosion and difficulties removing later?

H6 head gasket failure is seemingly less than H4's.

I would say H6s need a head gasket about as often as you'd see from any other engine type. I haven't checked my 'blue crust' recently...

Have never seen a 3.0 need headgasket  yet seen burnt valve and cracked block and broken pistons but that's it