Lower ball joint time- yay!

 

Detected a tiny bit of wanderlust in the sterring, bit of play in a lower front BJ.

 

I have cleaned the gap to expose the bit of the BJ and threads, heated with the blue wrench and let some kroil hopefully get sucked into the joint and threads.

 

I guess I'll be searching for that homemade BJ puller thread...

 

I will keep the slot doused with penetrating oil, and will heat the heack out of the part the bolt threads into when I pull it.

 

Next week hopefully...

Tip drill from backside of pinch bolt by drilling a 1/4 inch into threads will help to release bolt without breakage

Drill into the end of the pinch bolt?

 

Does that mean a new bolt is required?

Generally, a new ball joint will supply a new pinch bolt

Edited January 26, 201412 yr by MilesFox

Drill into the end of the pinch bolt?

 

Does that mean a new bolt is required?

 

 

It is recommended to use a new bolt, i have done many using the old bolt however, you end up separating them during cv axel replacements as well, which i have done too many of.. but yeah, should be fine to use the old bolt, just put it back exactly as it came out as they tend to bend into shape a bit.

The thread side not head side yes a new bolt is a good idea

yes - thread side.  i always reuse the bolts, i assume the Subaru bolts are probably higher quality than aftermarket stuff and the aftermarkets have different sized bolt heads.

 

you end up separating them during cv axel replacements as well,

 

removing the strut bolt is much easier way to do the axle so many of us don't use that ball joint method.  or at least here in the rust belt.  some ball joints can not even come out with tools, torches, or soaking.  it's only 1 out of 20 or 30 that are that bad but for people doing a lot of them - the ball joints need broken, chiseled, and then the remaining bits drilled out little pieces at a time, or the last few shell pieces ground out, when they're that bad.

 

in rust prone areas you are best to avoid ball joints at all cost, of all the easy jobs they are by far the riskiest.

 

this is why dave is posting this thread - for those out west/south this wouldn't need posted.  pop it out and replace. in the rust belt there's a small chance it could turn into a debacle.

Just did to ball joints on a 97 Legacy last week, bolts and ball joints came right out, I love Colorado Cars!

I get some bad ones have spent hours on that one bolt just to change the knuckle after fighting a hopeless battle when I turn it I watch the other side of bolt to see if it turns if not stop ! until it dose makes you wish Subaru would have antiseized them from factory

Lowes- useless. No 1.5 black pipe caps (I have the rest of the black pipe bits already), and get thisd- they stopped carrying taps (not that I was too hopeful they'd have the right size).

I cut the head off a 3/4 grade-8 bolt and used a 1/2-inch black-pipe union to join the bolt and a spare open-ended lug nut, brazed with a tight-fit.\

Ground/sanded off the chrome at the coating on the bolt first.

Those gold bolts- cad plated? Plenty of air etc when I did it, now the garage is frigging cold.

dave - i'm lost on black pipe stuff and 3/4 1/2 inch, and chrome coating and gold bolts...put the beer down and check the URL - are you posting about your bike, furnace, or....lol

 

interesting...no taps.  auto parts stores around here usually have them...

 

Just did to ball joints on a 97 Legacy last week, bolts and ball joints came right out, I love Colorado Cars!

i pulled the ball joint on my XT6 to do a wheel bearing a week or two ago - it was amazing!  remove bolt, pop out the ball joint.  every brake job and bolt has been a breeze. well worth having it shipped from CA.

I can get a rusty bolt out, but one that has already been beaten up or over torqued are the ones to snap off. Don't he-man on the torque, and you will be able to get it off next time. Use 6sided tools when available.

 

I just replaced the ball joint in my forester (along with failed control arm due to RUST) to discover it had been previously serviced, evidenced by a long bolt with a nut on the other side, and part of the knuckle scarred from drilling out the old bolt.

 

if the bolt breaks and must be drilled out, a through-bolt is just as good. The factory bolt threads into the knuckle. Drilling mey remove these threads. The shank of the bolt will retain the ball joint without torque as there is a groove on the ball joint socket end. 

 

It's not a lost battle if it breaks. as long as you have a good drill bit. Be prepared to remove the whole knuckle so that you can take it to a bench. For the same labor you can swap another knuckle, depending on cost. Good luck!

Edited January 28, 201412 yr by MilesFox

those "through bolts" repairs are common around here, i see it all the time on Subarus.

 

i've had anti-seize slathered parts be very difficult to separate before after only a couple years, 99% sure once was a ball joint...only a time or two but i recall being surprised and wondering if there was something better or what i missed that time.

I'm counting on heat, planning to get the threaded end a bit red. I have plenty of metal plates to use to shield the CV joint, and the acetylene torch can get it cherry (and hopefully loose) and I think I can can cool it before the wheel bearing takes a lot of heat.

I couldn't get the bolt on my '96 even after drilling out the back of the bolt. I ended up just drilling out the entire bolt and then using a longer bolt to 'bolt through'. The thing that really hung me up is when I drilled out the bolt, a very small amount of metal remained inside engaging the ball joint lip, and it would not come out like that. Once I figured out that's what was keeping the ball joint from popping out it wasn't too bad. But I snapped the drill bit off in the hole, plus I was using a cordless drill, and when the bit got stuck and snapped, the drill kicked and punched me in the face and pushed my head into something sharp under the car. That wasn't the best wrenching day.

What do you mean its going to cost me 500 $ to do one ball joint ! lol

It's too bad these won't fit in a flat-rate box (will they?). I would buy a dozen from the south/southwest just to hand out to all the people who have to swear over these.

I thought in the south they just fell out when you asked them nicely?

I use the bolts that hold the front diff on the 4eat just the right length for a bolt /nut combo

Well, now I have lots of time to work on it.

 

Got laid off today.

Ball joint is in. Tool worked great!

Got the area around bolt pretty red to get it to loosen.

I shielded the CV boot well, don't think the wheel bearing took a lot of heat.

BTW napa has the 12x1.25 tap in the sprk-plug repair section, 6 bucks. Used my brazed-on lug nut though.