February 1, 201412 yr This has been my dianosis so far. .. car stopped stopped running but turned over, pulled a plug and held it with plyers againts the block and no spark, pulled the coil wire from distributor and no spark. Put the 12v test light to positive side of the coil and there was light with igntion on, hooked it onto the negative side while turning the engine and it pulsed with the sound of the turning engine, pulled the fuel line from where it meets the carb, drained excess gas into a jar, placed the line into a baby jar resting on the block and turned the engine over a few times while giving it a little gas, jar was half full... I had already replaced the plugs and wires (ngk) a few weeks ago... so then I replaced the coil, and replaced the linkable fuses but still nothing...
February 2, 201412 yr That's what did it in my brat. Sat for 4 months because I was too stubborn to pay the $100.
February 2, 201412 yr Author Alrighty sounds good, I'll either just buy the part or find an ea81 disty at the junk yard and see what happens....
February 2, 201412 yr The module in the dizy would effect the spark from the coil? Yes. I went through this too. I believe the ignition module sends a signal to the coil when it senses engine rotation, telling the coil to fire. Generally they start to show failure randomly at operating temps, causing misfires or stalling. Eventually they fail all together. Though sometimes they just fail. The last one I had fail did just that, with no warning at all.
February 2, 201412 yr Since the negative side of the coil made the test light flash you should have had spark from the coil. Have you tried a different coil wire to see what that does? Clean the ground of the coil bracket.
February 2, 201412 yr Thanks for the info Ivans Imports. If that is the case then I have to assume the module is working since the negative side of the coil showed signs of going to ground using the test light, which should make the coil fire. So I have wonder if the coil wire is bad.
February 2, 201412 yr Author The first thing I did was replace thr coil wire. .. Though the second time I did the - side coil test it didnt have a stong pulse it just pretty much turned the light to really dim/ almost off... My question now is what should the pulse look like?
February 2, 201412 yr Similar dead-in-the-water dizzy issues.. My testing has gotten to the point where I have a ground from the ICM B/W lug on the distributor (hitachi) with nothing else hooked up.compared that to the 'good' reference. no ground. So I'm getting another module. Allegedly the friend who checked noted a spark, but I didn't see it myself.
February 4, 201412 yr The module must be defective from what you say. It sounds like it is working a little bit, but not like it should be.
February 5, 201412 yr So I went and looked at mossgreens brat, sure I could sort it out having had this issue before. We installed a new (JY) ignition module, New coil, replaced all fusible links, verified grounds (coil bracket, etc.) Still no spark. What's a simple method of assuring the module is no good, as I'm finding it hard to believe we can't get a spark. Thanks, Pete
February 5, 201412 yr Hopefully you have voltage on the minus side of the coil with the ignition switch on. Have you replaced the pickup inside the disty? If not and the voltage is good then replacing it should get you spark.
February 5, 201412 yr I'm not able to verify voltage that at this moment as the Brat is 20 miles away. I was under the impression that the pickup coil is integral to the ignition module. This is a Hitachi disty, just to be clear.
February 6, 201412 yr Replacing the disty with a good used one may be the easier way to go with this.
February 6, 201412 yr If it has a ECM that could do it. On a 83 turbo wagon i had it suddenly wouldn't run one day and it had no spark along with fuel pump not working right, so I replaced the coil plus cleaning conections thinking that was it. Turns out it was't so I put in a spair ECM before I looked for a distributor because they're hard to find for turbos from the module having 4 wires instead of 2. The ECM was the problem in my case for sure since spark retured and it fired right up after replacing it along with normal fuel pulsing.
February 6, 201412 yr Is the diss turning ? striped gear or broken shaft ? is it posibble coil is hooked up wrong ?
February 6, 201412 yr You make another good point Ivans Imports. If the OP hasn't verified the disty is turning while cranking the engine that needs to be done next. If that is okay then going from what was stated in post 11 it indicates that either the wiring from the disty or, the control unit shown in the above parts view is bad. I think it is the only thing left in the circuit that hasn't been replaced.
February 6, 201412 yr No ECU in this car, it's running a Weber 32/36, although good point if it was FI The distributor shaft indeed turns while cranking. The coil leads could be potentially hooked up wrong, as its easy enough to fudge. BW from body = 12v IG. = POS BW from Disty = POS Noise Condenser= POS Yellow from disty = NEG Yellow from body = Tach signal wire = NEG Correct?
February 7, 201412 yr No ECU in this car, it's running a Weber 32/36, although good point if it was FI The distributor shaft indeed turns while cranking. The coil leads could be potentially hooked up wrong, as its easy enough to fudge. BW from body = 12v IG. = POS BW from Disty = POS Noise Condenser= POS Yellow from disty = NEG Yellow from body = Tach signal wire = NEG Correct? That's my impression. (same problem, almost. That' s why I've been posting here.. ) except my BW from disty is reading continuity to ground unhooked up to the coil. Next time you're metering, check that. I'm just curious. There was a relevant to the discussion diagram but it seems to have gone away.
February 7, 201412 yr Placing a test light probe on the minus side of the coil should make the light flash brightly while cranking the engine if things are good. If the light stays on steady or there is no light then either the module inside the disty is bad or voltage isn't getting past the positive side of the coil.
February 7, 201412 yr Placing a test light probe on the minus side of the coil should make the light flash brightly while cranking the engine if things are good. If the light stays on steady or there is no light then either the module inside the disty is bad or voltage isn't getting past the positive side of the coil. Or the wiring between the coil and disty is bad..... Or the magnet in the disty has problems(even cracked ones seem to work though) Quick and dirty way to test the other components is to intermittently ground coil negative(like the module is supposed to) and see if you have spark.(Key on.)
February 7, 201412 yr What's a simple method of assuring the module is no good, as I'm finding it hard to believe we can't get a spark. Thanks, Pete Use the diode test function of a multimeter to compare it to a known good one. Test between all 3 connections,both polarities on each. Any significant difference confirms the bad one. Lacking one for comparision,shorts or opens are signs of trouble.
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