So my '89 DL wagon has a very gritty dirty engine. 

 

I'm wondering how big of a deal it is to replace the valve cover gaskets. Drivers side looks kind of tough, passenger side doesn't look too bad. Hints, advice welcome. 

 

Also, what other common oil leaks should I look into?

 

John

Pretty much the only places they leak are everywhere.   

 

Sorry, couldn't help it.

So my '89 DL wagon has a very gritty dirty engine. 

 

I'm wondering how big of a deal it is to replace the valve cover gaskets. Drivers side looks kind of tough, passenger side doesn't look too bad. Hints, advice welcome. 

 

Also, what other common oil leaks should I look into?

 

John

 

 

Pretty much the only places they leak are everywhere.   

 

Sorry, couldn't help it.

 

 

Welcome to the world of Subaru They are engineered to leak oil lol

 

Out of all the Subies I've owned, and all the ones my friends own, I've come to the conclusion that its usually valve cover gaskets and rear main seals that tend to leak most often.  Also the drain plugs.  When I worked for Firestone, they told us that we had to replace the drain plug crush washer on every Subaru during an oil change, or else it would come back to the shop leaking.  Even if they exaggerated, a 3 pack of em is $2.  Not much for a little extra piece of mind

Edited April 19, 201411 yr by TheWanderer

Passenger is obviously easier but drivers isn't too bad removing the battery helps a bit and I had a lift when I did mine and that was nice too:) but the only leak I have is what looks to be the crank seal maybe?Middle by the timing belt cover, but it's minor so I'm going to wait for the TB replacement to do it all.

Edited April 19, 201411 yr by Discombobulated

Easy.  get a 10mm ratcheting wrench for the rear lower drivers side cover bolt(s).  without that it's much more annoying, otherwise they're easy.

 

replace the grommets to while you're at it, they're old, brittle, and in horrible shape by now usually.

I have never had luck with using the valve cover gasket. I use permatex only, not only as a gasket but I put a bead on the flange of the bolt and inside part of the grommets. It may still seep but not drip... The drivers side is tight, might want to loosen the motor mount a lift it a bit to try get more clearance.

Thanks guys!

 

John

valve covers are pretty easy, and Elite was right about changing the grommets, is a simple extra step to give peace of mind that it was done right.

 

If you go with the liquid gasket it's really easy to put too much on the surface. Just be mindful of that.

 

I had a first gen legacy that would leak oil right onto the exhaust manifold. Whenever the car would stop smoking after going up a hill I would know it's time to check and add more engine oil... Cause there wasn't enough in there to leak out....

valve covers are pretty easy, and Elite was right about changing the grommets, is a simple extra step to give peace of mind that it was done right.

 

If you go with the liquid gasket it's really easy to put too much on the surface. Just be mindful of that.

 

I had a first gen legacy that would leak oil right onto the exhaust manifold. Whenever the car would stop smoking after going up a hill I would know it's time to check and add more engine oil... Cause there wasn't enough in there to leak out....

I had a legacy that either burned or leaked oil and I knew it was time to add oil when the lifters started ticking.I never changed the oil  on that car, I just changed the filter every once in a while...

Edited April 23, 201411 yr by Uberoo

When you do the timing belts, behind the cam sprocket is a seal.   I replaced the seals the first time I did timing belts in '95.  However, I still had an oil leak.  Found out there is an O-Ring behind the seal.  I don't recall exactly how far you need to go to replace the o-ring.   I believe you can do it all from the front.

  New grommets on valve cover bolt holes works wonders.

Thanks again Guys!

 

John