Hot d@mn, that tool is slick!  I spent more time the other day looking for a small screw to try and use in the seal to grab it.  Five seconds with Lisle and the seal was out.  Great suggestion.

Good deal!

 

Edited May 9, 201411 yr by Fairtax4me

About lifting the engine:

 

- Use the 2 lifting-points that others have mentioned (1 on rear near wiring-connectors, & 1 on A-C/Generator bracket);

 

- Use a Leveller-Beam between the hoist & engine. Mine is a 3/4 Ton (750kg), & cost $30. With the engine partially-lifted, you can adjust the Leveller-Beam to tilt the engine this way & that, and also adjust the jack to raise & lower the transmission slightly. This helps get everything in line, and is particularly useful when reinstalling the engine.

 

Good luck.

I did have a load leveler that came with the borrowed hoist and that helped.  I needed to change the angle of the engine just a bit to get it to line up and slide back into the posts.

 

I got the engine bolted to the transmission last weekend and was waiting on my RockAuto order for exhaust and manifold gaskets.  Now I have the exhaust and intake back in place.  I was bolting things together last night and I'm down a mystery bracket.  I didn't mark it so it must have seemed "obvious" where it would go...although that location is eluding me at the moment.  It was near my bolts for the A/C compressor so it seems like it should go somewhere on that side.  Maybe the two lower long bolts for the compressor go through it?  I poked around opposedforces but couldn't identify this.  The bracket in question

 

https://imageshack.com/i/neji30j

 

Anyone know?

Yes, it's the lower compressor bracket. The lower bolts go through that. That "small" bolt secures it to the cylinder head. Be sure to get that bolt started before tightening the other bolts.

anybody use the alternate hood prop location for engine removal?

 

^yup

+2 Same here.  Very handy.

My 2002 Forester doesn't have that secondary hood-prop.

 

However, the hood will push back to the vertical, and stay there.

This works well inside the garage. But I'm not sure that I would trust it outside on a windy day.

 

EDIT: I was wrong, there IS a secondary hood prop on my car.  See my correction #38, a few posts down.

Edited May 21, 201411 yr by forester2002s

Your forester does have the hole for the prop rod. You just remove the prop rod from its normal spot, and move it back to that location.

anybody use the alternate hood prop location for engine removal?

 

I use it ALL THE TIME. Even just for air filter or belts or spark plugs. Its great to have the hood up out of the way. I really wish more cars had that capability.

I've only used it on the wrx when I had to take the intercooler off. But I think my Outback has a spot too.

 

do the newer ones have it? or has it gone away like the "virgin switch" lol!

Your forester does have the hole for the prop rod. You just remove the prop rod from its normal spot, and move it back to that location.

You're right! My Forester does that that extra bracket for the prop rod. Right on the right-side suspension 'hat'.

I was looking in the wrong place. I was expecting a second hole somewhere on the inside of the hood!

Thnaks for pointing this out.

OK, got everything connected (I think!).  Went to fire up the engine for quick timing check before I drop in the radiator and fill it up.  It doesn't catch.  Turns over but seems like it is missing.  I did replace the fuel filter and spark plugs (standard NGK, gapped to .045).  When I first cranked it (before the video was taken) I thought I heard one pop of a fire, but it didn't catch.

Then I remembered that Fairtax suggested I unscrew the gas cap to keep vapor pressure from building.  I thought that might be hurting my situation since I didn't have any gas in the fuel lines and the fuel filter was new (and empty).

 

 

I know the timing is set correctly as I set it before I fired it up.  I made sure to put the correct cam on the correct side so the cam position sensor is happy.

 

Suggestions on what to check?

Make sure the bell housing connectors are plugged in all the way. They can be almost there but not quite and cause this problem.

 

Make sure all the hoses are connected to the intake tube and the valve covers. Make sure the intake tube is clamped at both ends.

Last night I fiddled with this for a bit.  I unclipped and reconnected the bellhousing connections making sure I got an audible click.  The hose clamp on the intake body side of my intake tube wasn't totally tight so I cranked that down.  I checked all the hoses and they are all connected.  Turned the key and it sounded different for one crank or two and then back to the sound in the video.

 

Other suggestions/next steps?  Seems like I should confirm that I have spark and gas.  What is the best way to make sure I'm getting spark (even though I was getting it fine before I removed everything)

Try cranking with the throttle about half open. If that doesn't work try it with the pedal on the floor.

Have you checked it for codes?

 

Did you remember plug in the ECT sensor when you put the intake manifold back on?

Also, your plug gap should be .039-.043" IIRC. That might not make a huge difference now but will lead to shorter plug life.

Edited May 23, 201411 yr by Fairtax4me

ECT sensor is the red/brown sensor on the coolant crossover, right?  I did plug that it, but I will double check that connection.

 

I read some threads here that the gap is better around .045.  I'll pull the plugs and check gap and reduce a few mils.  Maybe I will try the old plugs (since they worked before removal).  I checked the gap at removal and they were around the .039-.043" range.  At least as close as I could tell with the round feeler gauge like this:

 

 

I can't tell if there are any codes generated (as the check engine stays on because of no start) but I will connect and see.

If there is a sensor issue (TPS, MAF, Crank, cam, etc) it may have a code due to that sensor being out of spec or not responding.

Mines a 91 with 216k!

No codes when I hooked up the reader.  I do have a pretty cheap one, and I've only had codes come up when the check engine light is on and I am able to start up the vehicle-I've never had a situation where I tried to pull a code with the vehicle not started.

 

I pulled the new plugs and checked the gap.  I must have left them as they came-they were all .043-44 ish.

 

ECT plug is connected.  I redid the timing belt just to be sure it was lined up.

 

Frustrating...I didn't think this would be hard part!

I had the same thing happen once. I had the fuel line and vent line mixed up. It's pretty easy to do.

 

Good luck!

I went through and labeled nearly every line/clip with a marker or tape.  I'm thinking I might just undo the intake body and start fresh.

 

I measured the gap on the old plugs that I pulled out (that were working, but worn).  The gap was over .050.

Can you tell if the fuel pump is coming on to prime the system?

 

Filter hose should go to the top metal line on the manifold. Worth a look just in case.

How do I tell about the fuel pump?  The new fuel filter did have gas in it (of course it was empty when I installed it).

 

I'll double check that fuel hose but I labeled the three hoses with tape that are bundled there upper, middle and lower so I'm 99% sure I have them right.

 

Just for giggles I checked all the fuses/fusable links yesterday and all looked good.