wavekayaker

Muskiefshr, did you ever do the tailhousing swap? Looking at the same thing with a VDC to non-vdc tail housing.

Thanks for the input guys! I picked up a lower mile used trans for a good price and used that instead. I've got it all back together and now it won't crank over. Started a new thread on that one. I should have stuck to the earlier Outbacks. This thing is a head scratcher.

hi guys, scratching head here. I picked up a project 2012 Outback 2.5 with a bad front diff. Drove it home and onto the work stands. I replaced the trans and TCU, had the engine out for timing belt, and seals. Got evrything all back together and it will not crank over. Battery is good, temp light is flashing blue to red, brake dash light is flashing, fuel light is flashing. I don't hear the fuel pump even trying to prime. Starter doesn't even click. I've checked and double checked to make sure everything is plugged in. Hooked up my cheap OBD2 reader and it goes blank trying to communicate with the car. I'm missing something, but have searched and can't find anything. Help!

I just picked up a 2012 Outback with the ej25 and auto CVT trans. The front diff is howling pretty bad and stops while coasting. I've searched but cannot find if you can split the front diff from the trans as a unit, or is it more involved than that? I was hoping the trans output shaft and diff input shaft aren't the same piece. Thanks for the help!

And answered my own question..... Found the washer that goes between the center diff and the output shaft in the drain pan. All back apart and ready for the second try. Oh well, glad I found the smoking gun!

I just replaced the center diff in my girlfriend's 2010 Forester with a 5MT. There were no strange noises before. I was very careful on tear down and reassembly to not mess with the outputshaft setup org to loose the washer on the output shaft. Everything went together great, but on the test drive, there is a loud whine on acceleration that gets louder white the RPMs. Looks like it has to come back apart, but any clues to what I'm looking for? Thanks!!

Good point GD. My thoughts were that after running it low on oil, there was probably more wrong than just rings. She ran it low a year or so ago, so probably would not see anything in the filter. Downtime is also a concern. The only thing I have done rings on was an old diesel dozer and I didn't want to spend the time and her money to figure out I didn't get it quite right. I might just go for it and see what happens

Got a little more of the story from the girlfriend this weekend. About a year ago she smelled a burned oil smell and took the car to the dealer where they told her it was very low on oil. After that the car started using more oil. Sounds like she might have messed up more than the rings. Looks like new short blocks can be had for $1700, so..... Probably going to have her get the new short block, gaskets, center diff, and timing set and I'll spend some quality time with her car while she drives my 99 Outback.... I needed a new clutch anyway . Thanks for all the input and advice guys!

Thanks guys! I wish we were closer to GD, would probably just drop it off for some love

The girlfriend has a 2010 Forester w/ 110000 miles. In the last year or so the car has started using oil (~ 1qt/ 1000 miles. I need to do a leak down test to get a good idea of where the oil is going ( none on the drive, no visible smoking). I changed the PCV valve and that helped a bit. The question is on these ej253s how common is it to just need rings without touching the cylinders? Car is also starting to have pretty bad torque bind (5mt trans). Pretty resigned to replacing the center diff at this point. . Seems every time we ale a trip we are in my 99 EJ 22 swapped Outback . Love that rig! Thanks for an input guys!

Great price! If it wasn't a sedan, I might have to race you to it

I was thinking of this today. Thanks for the pin out! Saves me a bunch of time!

I'm in Columbia , SC also... Have a few 30 year old Toyotas that have been here their whole life. Every almost every bolt can be unthreaded by hand after breaking it loose. Cars can last forever here.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/157228-cluster-problem-outback/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156935-cluster-problem/ These are the other posts you have made about this same problem. Have you followed the advice in them? There is a lot of good info there.

If the cruise works, it's probably the cluster. If the new one was used it could also be bad. 99 is year specific and a lot had problems. If the cruise does not work it could be one of the transmission speed sensors. This is very well documented online. Google 1999 Legacy speedometer and you will get all kinds of info.

I'm not 100% sure, but I do not think the 99 cluster is the same as the 97 cluster. I seem to remember 99 being a one year only.

That is on the front... The trigger everyone is referring to is on the back, ie. You would have to have it off to compare.

Pinched sheet metal plate that bolts to the bottom of the block? Did that one before...

Update. Thanks for the input guys. Finally got the car here to look at. Something got on the belt and it broke. All the idlers and pullys were in good shape, but the crank gear and the idlers near the crank had surface rust. The drivers head would not rotate, so I figured it was smashed. I ended up getting a 2004 Forester engine w/ 117,000 miles for $1000. Put on a new Gates timing kit and Aisin water pump. I used the 2005 intake (2004 was way different). The crank and cam timing pullys were different and the knock sensor was different. Neither engine was ACLV (Thanks TD!) Other than that it was very straight forward. Engine runs good. When my dad called to get the engine he told them he had a 2005... They wouldn't sell him the engine. He had to call back and talk to someone else. Crazy the faith people put into a computer program! (But the computer said it won't fit!!!)

There's not much info out there on the diffearances! Was ACVS started in 2005? I see some things yes....some things maybee. 2005 seems to be a transition year. I wish I was in front of the car to look at it. I should have it here this weekend to start the tear down. Thanks for finding the info on the intake gaskets Matt. I wish it was as simple as just keeping the intake from the Forester on the Impreza engine, but sounds like there is more to it than that.

Im not very familiar with the SOHC 2.5s and couldn't find a good answer, so hoing you guys can help. My dad's 2005 Forester X (non turbo) had something seize and break the timing belt at highway speed. (I replaced the timing components with the e-bay kit ~ 10k miles ago, so not sure what went). The car has 204,000 miles. If we find damaged valves, I'm not sure pulling the heads and repairing the damaged valves is the way to go. The question.... Do the 2005 Impreza and 2005 Forester have the same engine. I found an Impreza engine w/ 36K for $1400. My dad would like to keep the car for another 100K or so, and its in great shape ( southern car, no rust). Thanks for any help!!

Nice looking 80. I am quasi keeping an eye open for a FZJ80 or a LX 450 with diff locks. That's the one rig that I would sell my 85 4Runner to get. For the body work on the Subbie, try www.car-part.com. It's a searchable junk yard data base. You can search by area. I've had good luck with mid nineties junk yard body panels matching perfectly. good luck!

You will be fine. I put a set of those in my old Brighton wagon. Very nice upgrade!

My 99 Outbach had cloth heated seats. Should be a direct bolt in, but you might have to run a relay and wires. I replaced my cloth ones with leather.

If to are referring to the metal portion ( not the lower rubber section), I am pretty sure the 99 is specific to that year. I have a 99... Ask me how I know....