wavekayaker

Another one from Columbia, SC here. Would love to have a get together.

No overheating, coolant level stayed full and constant for 4 months, but was low ( not below the fins) when I pulled the cap to drain it this morning. Under the rad. cap is clean, and no pressure in the coolant bottle. Plugs look normal (grey, not ashy) No oil was hitting the concrete and no burned oil smells. Can was not burning oil noticably from the exhast (I had someone flolw me to look). I've been keeping a close eye on things because of the oil loss, this is the first time the engine performance has been affected. No codes were triggered.

Thought I would post up for some thoughts while I mull this over. The car is a 99 Outback, EJ25D, 5sp. I got it at 90,000 miles from a little old lady. At 127,000 (~ 4 months ago I pulled the engine to do timing and re-seal. The car was supposed to have a new clutch before I bought it. The car spent it's early years in New Hampshire, and as such, 4 of the six exhaust manifold bolts sheared off. So the heads went to the shop to get the bolts out and check for flatness. I ended up getting the valves lapped and new valve stem seals. The shop also lightly surfacing the heads. I bolted the engine together with new Subaru head gaskets following the FSM torque specs, adjusted the valves, resealed everything and put the engine back in. (the new clutch was just that, a new disk a PP. The pilot bearing was trashed, and the flywheel looked bad! Flywheel got resurfaced and pilot and throw out got replaced) The car started and ran geat! The first few tanks of gas I noticed that I was losing oil, bad. I was losing a quart every 600 miles or so. I thought one of the seals was in wrong and I would get around to it. Coolant level stayed constant. 4 months and 8000 miles later the car is still running great, mileage is 25 - 27 mixed driving. I didn't drive the car for a few days this weekend and went to drive it last night. It fired up for a second and didn't sound good and shut off. I cranked the engine over again and it cranked a little fast like it had low compression. I thought my missing oil might be in the timing belt area and the belt slipped, so I stopped and towed the car over to my garage. This morning I pulled the radiator and the coolant is amber colored. There isn't an oil sheen on it, but it doesn't look right. I pulled down the front of the engine and the timing looks good, dead on. I put the battery back in and after cranking over for a few seconds it started, but seemed to be running a little rough. It smoothed out a bit when I reved it ~ 3000 rpms, then it idled decent, but not perfect. I still wanted to know where my oil was going, so I pulled the engine the rest of the way out to check the rear seal and seperator plate. They looked good. I then used the compression gauge and turned the engine over by hand to get some informational readings (Should have done this before pulling the engine, I know) I got 45, 90, 40, 85. This was by hand, so they don't mean much, but the right bank is 1/2 of the left bank. Does it sound to you guys like the head gasket on the right side didn't seal well allowing oil into the coolant passages until something gave way last night, or I am reading something that's not there? Thanks for reading this! Sorry it's a bit long winded!

I had a similar problem on my 97 Legacy Brighton (EJ22). I never got a CEL. I replaced the cam sensor and crank sensor and never had a problem again. I believe it was the crank sensor, but it was so cheap to get both crank and cam sensors, I replaced both. Good luck PS. I checked for fuel by pulling the fuel supply line, put it into a bottle and turned on the key. It was pumping fuel. This is not the best way to do this and prob. not the safest, but when you are stuck in a parking lot, you improvise. Goo luck!

Yep, that's how I check mine. It's a HF and it's accurate.

My old 97 Legacy Brighton I had showed a curb weight on the door card of ~1950 pounds (IIRC). The hood was a LOT lighter than the OBW hood. That scoop weighs a lot! The gears were also taller. I don't remember off the top of my head, but if you do some searching you can find the ratios. I never did understand why the car with less horsepower got taller gearing. I wish my curren OBW had the Brightons gearing. almost 4000RPMs on the interstate is a bit much! Good Luck! Anthony

I've had good luck with Exedy. I've found the kits for ~ $120 online.

Dave nailed it. I switched the fuel hoses to the correct place and she started right up. A few weird noises for a minute or two then everything smoothed out and ran great. I had also missed the temp gauge wire, so after putting that back on, I ran it up to temerature, put the hood back on, and took a ride. It's nice to have a car back that I don't have to hold into 5th gear to keep it from popping out (my old MR2 I've been commutting in 80 miles a day) Now this weekend the OBW gets new struts on all four corners. Wish me luck!! Thanks Guys!! Anthony

I think you nailed it! I checked this morning and I have the fuel line switched. I even labled them and still switched it. After work I will fix it and cross my fingers! Thanks!!

I just finished buttoning up the engine on my 99 OBW EJ25D. The engine got new seals, a valve job, head gaskets, and new idlers and timing belt. I have done the timing and re-seal on an EJ-22 before and have worked on DOHC toyotas before. I installed the timing belt per FSM (notch on the crank gear matched to the notch on the crank sensor, intake cams single notch up, exhaust cams double notch matching up with the double notch on the intake cams. Everything went back together fine with the exception of missing one small coolant hose under the intake mani. After correcting that, I spun the engine over with the crank sensor unplugged to prime the oil pump, then tried to crank. It dosen't sputter or even pretend to try and start. I checked the fuel line, and it is presureized, I checked for spark with an inline tester and have spark, I checked one injector with a noid light and it is fireing. I checked all the connectors again. I then pulled the timning covers back off and verified that the belt is on correctly (it is). The only thing I can think of is that the cam sensor stayed on the head when it went to the machine shop. Would a dead cam sensor still allow the coil pack to fire and the injectors to receive a signal. Any ideas guys? Is there some little connection somewhere that's easy to miss? Thanks for any help!! Anthony

Question along those lines. I just took my heads off for a timing belt job (decided to pull the engine for a re-seal, broke 4 of 6 exhaust studs, off to the machine shop. Origional head gaskets EJ25D, gaskets looked perfect!) One of the exhaust valves is light in color and has some flaking on the face. Is this the early stage of a burned valve? Should I replace it now? Sorry about jumping into the thread, but it is on topic:) Anthony

Coo! I'm also in Columbia. I second finding a southern car and driving it home. I somehow keep ending up with northern cars that end up in the south.

I agree on the price being high. I bought the same car (99 Outback 91,000 miles) for $2200 a year ago. I think that was a deal, but $7000 is crazy! Anthony

I use a 1.5" plumbing cap from the hardware store that I drilled and RTV'ed a hose barb conector onto for my Toyota. I haven't needed it for the Subaru yet. The plumbing cap is black rubber w/ a hose clamp on it. Lowes has them for ~ $4. Anthony

99% sure. I know the doors are the same, so everything in front of them should be the same. Anthony

Then I find a deal I can't pass up It's a 99 Outback 91,500 miles, new clutch. One turn signal lens is busted, one fog light lens is busted, and it needs a new rear cat. The tires are about 50%. I am going to kick myself for selling the 97 Brighton (EJ22) when the head gaskets go in this, but for $2200 it was hard to say no! I am already missing the higher gearing of the Brighton. The Outback seems to need a 6th gear or taller diffs. It is fun to drive though. I thought I was done with Subaru maintenance for awhile, oh well, it's about time for a timing belt on the new one. The Brighton is for sale in the classifieds. Anthony

97 Legacy Brighton 2.2 5sp 192,000 miles I just pulled the engine to do a re-seal, timing set, water pump, and clutch. What a breeze to work on. By far the easiest car I have ever wenched. I love the engine harness disconect. Why can't other manufacturers do that? The engine went back in without a hitch. The timing was spot on and except for putting the thermostat in upside down there were no problems. Just had to share!! Anthony

Thanks NIpper!! It was the cam sensor. I replaced it and it fired on the first turn. Anthony

This morning my 97 Legacy Brighton 2.2 MT would not start. It would crank over and sputter a bit when I let off the key. I pulled the fuel line on the engine side of the fuel filter and had good flow with the key on. I have not had time to check for spark yet, but from searching the board two culprits are the cooland temp sensor and the crank position sensor. The coolant temp sensor is less than 6 months old. I change it due to an erratic idle. I do not have a manual yet and I have to order it for this car. The soonest I can get it is Tues. Does anyone have the procedure for checking these two sensors to try to define the culprit. The car has done this once before. It started back up 30 minutes later and has been fine since. It was very foggy and wet this morning which makes me think an electrical problem dealing with moisture. Thanks for any help!! Anthony

Thanks for the answers guys!! I've needed a new clutch for the last 70,000 miles or so. I have the new one in the box, I was just waiting to get all of my timing parts together before I took the car off the road for a few days. I figured that the bearing was making noise when loaded, then stopped when the clutch was pushed because the input shaft was no longer turning. The noise will stop anytime the clutch is pushed, even coasting. The sound is much worse on cold mornings. It sounds like I am going to have to just pull it apart and see which bearing is the likely culprit. Thanks for the link XT6. I'm not sure if I'm brave enough for that one! Looking at all those gears makes me a little dizzy! Anthony

97 Lagacy Brighton wagon 5 sp. 191,000 miles I am starting to get a growling from my tranny that goes away when the clutch is pressed. I've done some research and think that the input shaft bearing is on it's way out. Has anyone done this themselves? I am assuming that you need to split the tranny case to get it out. I have been unable to find any reference of someone tackling this. My options are doing it myself, taking the tranny out and taking it to a shop, and just replacing the tranny. One question on replacing the tranny. I have a 3.90 final ratio. car-part.com only lists legacys as interchangable. Will any 5MT w/ a 3.90 ratio work? (ie. Impreza) I can't imagine, why they wouldn't, unless the axle spline or something is different. Glad the board is back up and running!!! Thanks Anthony

I saw mine the week I got my car. The next week I ran out because the light never came on, I made it to 400 miles on that tank though. Now when it hits 300 miles, I fill up. 97 Brighton wagon EJ22 Anthony

I have a 97 and it was in the drivers side footwell. The directions I had said it was in the passenfers side, after searching for hours, I finally looked under the drivers side and found the plug. Good luck! Anthony

I tried searching this and didn't find any info. I have a 97 Brighton w/ rear drums. I would like to convert to rear disc. Is this a straight swap, or are there issues w/ the ABS? If it is possible, which years are compatable? Thanks for any info! I'm just learning Subbies Anthony

I picked up my friend today to go mountain biking. He looked at my new 97 Brighton wagon and said " a Subaru, now you really are a hippie". I bought a 97 Brighton wagon three weks ago. It has 120,000 on it. So far so good. I'm really liking the car. The ej22 has great tourque. It's a little thirsty, but not bad. I have been getting from 25 to 28 MPG mixed driving. I checked out the write ups on here and put in a tach and cruise. Both came from ebay... for that matter, so did the car. The cruise was the kit that shows up a lot on ebay, at the time I bought it I didn't know that and ended up spending a few bucks more than the origional buy it now price had been.... oh well, it was worth it! There are a few differences on the 97 not covered in the directions, but even so it only took a few hours. I think I might have to do a front wheel bering soon, and definitely the timing belt. So, just saying hi! Anthony Columbia, SC