I am about to put a 1997 2.2 sohc motor from a legacy with an automatic into a 1998 outback with a 2.5 dohc and an automatic. Will this work and what problems am I going to encounter?

 

Thanks

DP213

this will be directly bolt-on, except you will need to swapover the single port 2.2 header to replace the dual port from the 2.5. the 2.2's intake harness will plug into the 2.5 body.

 

everything else is technique in regards to working on subarus. the engine is plug and play otherwise.

Thank you. Should I use the 2.5 intake and also so I use the starter flexplate and flywheel from the 2.5.

 

DP213

the 2.5 intake will not swap onto the 2.2/ however, all of the compoents and the harness will swap onto the intake. But, this is not necessary as the 2.2 intake is a direct plug-on to the engine harness on the car side.

 

the engine management between the 2 are identical, withthe difference win the intake being the shape of the ports where they bolt to the head.

Edited April 28, 201411 yr by MilesFox

Very cool. What about flywheel, flexplate, and starter? Sorry about all the questions and I really appreciate the info.

 

DP213

Doesn't the 97 EJ22 lack EGR or something like that?

No, the ej22 in question is from an automatic and will have the egr, only manual transmission ej22s lack egr.

You do need to swap the flexplates.

 

O.

yes, swap the flex plate.

the flex plate on the ej25 is larger than the ej22.

so keep the one that came on your car.

 

there will be a couple of metal lines on the front of the engine intake on the ej22 ,

near the top rad hose, they went to the charcoal canister.

in 98 they moved the canister to the rear of the car.

so either plug them or connect them to each other, you do not need them.

 

do not disconnect the cooling hoses on the A/C compressor.

just unbolt the compressor and flop it out of the way during removal.

(i flop it back after removal, less stress on the hose.)

 

reuse the A/C bracket that was on the ej25.

i don't know why or if it is even necessary,

but that's what they told me to do and it works fine.

 

and the small vac lines that go to the passenger strut tower,

there used to be 2 going over, then they switched to only one, whatever.

just make sure the stuff on the strut tower is connect by one,

and make sure all other hose nipples on the intake are connected or capped.

an open nipple will give you head aches was you get it running.

 

remove the intake from the engine to make it EASY to get to the flex plate bolts.

remove the axles from the trans to make it easy to get to the bottom two engine / trans nuts.

 

do not jack the trans up on the oil pan,

it will dent and cause problems.

 

http://www.beergarage.com has a good ''how to''.

 

good luck.

Thank you guys. I will dropping the motor in after work today and hopefully completing it tomorrow.

Make sure you reseal the rear Breather Plate.

If it's plastic, its best to get the metal version.  Pretty cheap from the dealer.

Well engine swap is done. It fired right up but now it sounds like valva chatter. The engine sounded perfect when pulled from the doner car. Any ideas?

Rev it up a bunch. Give it a spirited drive and change the oil. Consider replacing the oil pump seals with timing belt service.

Rev it up a bunch. Give it a spirited drive and change the oil. Consider replacing the oil pump seals with timing belt service.

Add some Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase, drive some, then change the oil.

OK hopefully this is my last post on this project. It runs and drives great but I have a couple small things. A knock sensor code, it sometimes doesn't shift at the right time and when I give it gas while driving it has a whistle.

 

Thanks for all the input and advice.