Only things I've done is replaced turn signal housing and a running light plug. Been running fine for a couple weeks now. Was on my way to work, driving along minding my own business, I hear a "POP" and there go my dash and tail lights. Replaced fuse, it immediately popped again. I've checked all bulbs, pulled inst. cluster, rechecked the connections on the above mentioned things I've done, all looks good. Could it be the switch? Mine looks good. I've pulled a switch apart (not this one) and the are very simple which makes me think if it was the switch I'd lose all lights (every other light on car works).

 

Fuse only pops when I turn on running (first click) lights. I'm at a loss here.

I hate electrical spoob.

It sounds like you have a short in the running light circuit.  It could be the switch or any other wire or component in the circuit.  If any of the wires have lost insulation and are grounding out on something they could cause this issue.  If you don't want to break out the multimeter, I would recommend checking locations where you have done some work and have moved wires around 

 

This is a bit of a remote possibility, but you might check the bulb sockets in the tail lights and/or turn signals.  If memory serves, one of the wires that "connects" to the socket is actually just pressed between the outside of the metal socket cup and the plastic fitting/housing.  I refurbished the ones on my hatch and was surprised to find the wire is designed to just touch the side of the socket instead of actually being attached.  They are in there pretty tight, but there was a lot of oxidation on mine so I cleaned them and soldered them.  Again, it's been several years since I did this, so I don't remember the details, but when I pulled apart the sockets I was surprised they worked at all before I soldered them.  Bulbs last a lot longer now too. 

Thanks, i'll check out those possibilities. Signals work fine so I'm not really leaning in that direction. I've spent the last 2 days going over wiring and connectors and (un?) fortunately everything looks good. I'm gonna hook up the old signal housing I replaced and see what happens there. All I have left is switch I guess......

well, I've crawled all thru the wagon, haven't found anything wrong. still popping fuse. I'm still having doubts about a faulty switch, but it's about all I'm left with. Anyone happen to have one?

don't happen to have a towbar electrical socket ? They get gunk and moisture in them, cause this crap ....

Yes, the 4 prong spade type. I've been thru my tow wiring and all looks good.

Ok, new thought. I have a replacement switch on the way but I doubt that's the problem. After crawling thru wiring with no obvious issues im thinking the little black box for the trailer wiring harness. So I'm going to disconnect the harness and put it back to stock. Wish me luck.

Probably the relay.

Those two just to the right of the steering collum?

sorry, meant left. anyways, checked those and they are good. Waiting for switch to arrive as it will be a pita to re-hook up trailer wiring if that's not it.

Electrical problems are always challenging.   Keep at it and let us know what you find the problem to be.  Don't EVER give up !

I had this problem happen to me.  I couldn't find the short so what I did was to find all exposed wiring and sheath it in the split corrugated tubing.  That was enough insulation to keep the wire from shorting out and my problem was solved.

This happened to me. It was my license plate bulb/socket. Did you check that out yet?

I also had the license plate bulb socket problem on an S-10.

Just go thru all your wires and bulb sockets.  Clean things up.   Look for shorts in the hot wire... rusty bulb sockets   Popping fuses is simply something drawing too many amps.

Wasn't the switch. Stereo has been giving me problems (power or sound cuts out) off and on for awhile. Gonna take a looksie at that tomorrow.

I FIXXED IT!!!!!

Turns out it was the stereo. When someone before me put the stereo in they didn't cover/seal the extra wires that were cut. One or more of the exposed wires must have found it's way against some metal and was popping the fuse.

 

 

 

 

Fried the stereo as well. Too bad, I really liked that head unit. Just a cheap Kenwood, but it was simple and easy to operate and not too "busy".

I've had more problems with Kenwoods than any other brand.

 

Clarion FTW.

 

Glad you fixed it.........Stereo wiring is always high on my list when things get weird......since it's the most likely item to have been messed with/hacked up/and screwed off by people with no real idea what they are doing.

Good stuff, and about time ! I fixed my own little problem too.

 

I created it somehow after I wired in extra power sockets, one to each side of the radio console,

'rebuilt the factory cig power socket with a combo of XT and Brumby bits,

made up an isolating circuit for the new power sockets so if anything sensitive plugged in at start up would not get spiked or surged -used a round 22A factory relay and momentary  to latch relay to the power sockets after start up - keeps power until engine off, so next start, still no power until hit momemntary switch.

I also added in a simple buzzer, two wires across IGN and headlight pos power - leave lights on with IGN off - buzzes its nuts off

Then, I added in my ebay aquarium temp controller

 

After all this work, drive off and not find problem until dark time - could not get headlights to switch on. Think I got them on first then started car and was OK until next stop in total darkness. While cranking, the dash lights all lit up ! Blinker greens in dash would go full green to half green ! Temp controller or reader at this stage would fade out display ... After tearing temp control wires out in frustration, what finally worked was to pull cig lighter fuse, start engine, lights on, then refit fuse!

 

I pulled all the wiring I described earlier and fitted in those factory blue encased diodes everywhere - thought I'd fixed it. Tested OK on the spot, but while out on the road, did a road test in good light, temp gauge in dash shot to HOT HOT. I pulled over and fiddled, then noticed just as I opened door, door light came on, all problems quit ?

 

What had I done ??

 

Brumbys don't have rear window demist, yet the plug is there, so too the 20A fuse. Plug had IGN power and two black earth wires - so I used this unused circuit for my little controllers earth and power. One of the black earth wires now goes to an earthing screw in the dash frame instead of an earth for the factory cig lighter socket - problems fixed !! Self confesseed auto electrician clown