Well. I got everything in and started it up yesterday. It was fantastic. For about 30 seconds and then it shut off and became clear we'd missed a hose for the radiator. Transmission fluids poured out and we're back to the drawing board.

I ended up having to get to work, but it seems like as soon as I get it properly hooked up, it'll run.

Of course it will run, it's still a Subaru right? So long as the motor has compression spark and fuel, it will always run. Hehe it takes aLOT to stop one of these cars.

So true haha. The camry was a temporary issue. I'll pose some pics soon. Even have headlights again. Held on with zipties

Well... its all on right and turns on, but the crank shaft pulley doesn't stay tight. Getting some locktite. Any other suggestions if that doesn't work?

Well... its all on right and turns on, but the crank shaft pulley doesn't stay tight. Getting some locktite. Any other suggestions if that doesn't work?

Did you torque it or impact it back on?

We just used a wrench. I'm hoping it just wasn't tight enough. The impact wrench wouldn't fit in after the radiator was in.

You really need a breaker bar with a pipe over it for extra torque. It was probably just not tight enough.

I've got a friend that's going to loan me a torque wrench. Does anybody know the right amount of torque?

125 ft lbs

Oh that's so different than every other number I've seen haha I knew at least one of the other answers was way too low though.

Guess who got their car running?? Had a bit of a scare when the hood popped open on the hwy but it runs and drives. Leaks coolant too. Still some stuff to figure out and it looks like crap, but its mobile!

Well, my water pump has a bad seal, I guess. Its leaking and not from the weep hole. Unfortunately, I'm also running HOT. Its only 30ish degrees and the 10 minute drive to work almost overheats my car. I'm not sure if this is because the water pump is leaking or because I ended up taking the pump fan out to accommodate the radiator. I'm hoping that once the seal is fixed it won't overheat, but does anyone have any cooling suggestions since I had to remove that fan? The electric one is still in but it doesn't seem to be enough.

Doubt it's because of removing the other fan. As i mentioned i have two of these cars and both have that fan removed. Neither ever over heat. Are you sure the electric fan is coming on at all?

Also, the water pump sometimes leaks at the pipe fitting. Make sure that pipe is seated right and maybe put new o ring. Look there though, that might be where it's leaking from.

I'm sure the electric one comes on sometimes, cuz the temp will drop back down sometimes but not always. I haven't put my new thermostat in yet, so maybe this one is bad and that's why the fan isn't coming on. I saw that it'll run constantly if my ac is on, but I don't have any freon now.

Will it hurt the ac at all to run if it has no freon? If not, I don't need cold air, just the ac to run to make the fan go until I figure out why it isn't kicking on.

I've not seen the fan / lack of fan cause overheat.  More than just a few bubbles of air in the cooling system will cause overheat.  And in my experience, this means head gasket replacement.  Sometimes very soon, sometimes in months.

 

You might be able to limp it along for a bit by modding the radiator cap so the system cannot pressurize.  A small piece of solid copper wire wrapped around the little valve in the cap does that.  As long as you are not in desert temperatures, it should be ok.  I've run them that way for quite a while without trouble.  What it does is make whatever leak you have loose less coolant per minute,  so enough may stay in to drive the car without overheating it.  I managed to drive one of mine with a cracked head for months this way, while I rebuilt another engine for it.  Eventually, the crack got bad enough so a bottle of water would drip through the crack while sitting in the parking lot in about 6 hours.  I just had to add water all the time.

The head gasket is fine. The water pump seal is messed up.

What he's saying is to take care of the problem asap so the hot running temps don't ruin your headgaskets. I think.

Thats the plan. I've kept it cool enough just not as cool as I would like. I'm hoping to do it this weekend or before.

Oh and no, running the a/c with a low charge won't harm it because there's a pressure sensor. If the charge is too low the a/c won't run.

It keeps the electric fan on and just pumps in warm air. Worked great til I got too warm bundled up for winter lol

change the Thermostat, fix the waterpump, make sure you burp your system and get all air out, refill, connect old fan to ignition power so when your key is on your fan is on, no matter what, (bypass thermo switch) .... last, add another cheap 12inch or so electric fan where your old clutch fan was and hook up a toggle switch so when its hot out you can turn it on for extra cooling POWA!!!

 

I ALWAYS remove that belt driven fan on ALL my cars and replace with electric. even with one fan it should be ok.

 

fix that WP issue and TS issue.

And in a fun turn of events, my radiator hose just sprung a leak. I just need boatloads of duct tape.

I haven't updated in a bit, but I got her going and got everything fixed. The check engine light was on but I'm not sure why. I even did a voluntary emissions check and passed so I'm just gonna disconnect the light.

But the red loctite I used to hold my crank shaft bolt right has given up and backed out.

Uuuuggggghhhhhhh

I guess I'll get it properly torqued this time.