October 28, 201411 yr Any suggestions for getting the (2) 12mm bolts started? I am about 1 mm short with ring engaged and everything aligned. (see pic) Thanks in advance.
October 28, 201411 yr I think you are charting new territory by taking it apart while it is in the car. Only suggestion I have is to remove it from the vehicle and assembly it on a nice clean warm bench inside. I am not saying you can't do it like you are doing, but I suspect it will take lots of cuss words before the job is done.
October 28, 201411 yr Author It was a balmy +16F today in Fairbanks! Of course it came apart much easier than it is going back together.... ;(
October 28, 201411 yr I think you are charting new territory by taking it apart while it is in the car. Only suggestion I have is to remove it from the vehicle and assembly it on a nice clean warm bench inside. I am not saying you can't do it like you are doing, but I suspect it will take lots of cuss words before the job is done. +1
October 28, 201411 yr Thank you! I have yet to disassemble the motor part of a Subaru starter. It may be the brushes hanging up on the comutator. Or something like that. I have disassembled the solenoid section many times to replace one of the copper contacts. That is an off car project.
October 28, 201411 yr Thank you! It may be the brushes hanging up on the comutator. That is exactly what it is. It will be nearly impossible to reassemble on the car.
October 28, 201411 yr Author Stupid question #1: After compression starting the car, can it be driven with the comutator removed? This job is above my current skill level (with knuckle scars to prove it)
October 28, 201411 yr That is exactly what it is. It will be nearly impossible to reassemble on the car. +1 Why would you take apart the starter that way????
October 28, 201411 yr There are literally 2 bolts and 2 wires. If you got it apart that far you can do it.
October 28, 201411 yr Author Starter removal: Confirm (2) 14mm bolts at the base of the starter ground (from battery) at about the 2 o'clock (looking forward) - this bolt appears to go through the top of the transmission (see pic); and 7 o'clock? Also tried removing the 14 mm hot with swivel socket, no luck, very tight, any suggestions? Thanks for nursing me along...
October 28, 201411 yr It was a balmy +16F today in Fairbanks! Of course it came apart much easier than it is going back together.... ;( They always do.
October 28, 201411 yr First, make sure to disconnect the battery cables. When I remove starters from ea82's, I remember leaving the hot wire connected to the starter. Just remove the starter mounting bolts.... then remove the hot wire after the starter is up and out from the flywheel. Then you can 'get' to the hot wire when the starter is sitting on the inside fender. When you have the starter on the bench, you might as well check the contacts at the solenoid end. Those are fairly easy to replace.
October 28, 201411 yr Author rdweninger - do you recommend getting to the bottom mounting bolt from underneath? I am cursed with large hands that do not fit well in Japanese car engines.
October 29, 201411 yr 17mm combination wrench for bottom nut. 14mm for the top one. Sometimes need a second one to hold the bolt.
October 29, 201411 yr Oh, another little mod I do to make starter service easier. Remove the clamp that holds the cables to the steel tube that helps support the spare tire. Then strip off the tape and stuff that holds the + and - cables together. Been running them that way since around 1988 with no ill effects.
October 29, 201411 yr You have to remove the spare tire support rod, remove battery cable support, and any other hose or pcv tube that is in the way. I can remove all the starter mounting bolts from top ... but I do some of my best work 'by feel'. If you can't get to the bolt head, then yes, take a look at it from underneath. Keep at it ... you'll get it.
October 29, 201411 yr Author For the solenoid rebuild kit, buy this? www.amazon.com/Victory-Lap-ND-360SOL Or dealer?
October 29, 201411 yr Author Removed clamps & pulled hoses. The A/C hose was extra fun. Believe it or not, it gets hot in Fairbanks during the summer! Waiting on my reman starter to show up in the mail...
October 30, 201411 yr In the meantime, pull the solenoid cap (3 little bolts... like 8mm hex heads). Inside, you will see the copper starter contacts (2). The one on the battery side will probably be worn down from the arcing that has occurred... thus preventing the transfer of juice to the electric motor side. It is these contacts that you may wish to replace. The contacts are maybe .99 cents apiece. I get mine from a local mechanic repair shop. Although, I think I may try to find them wholesale. You will then have a spare starter... cool, huh?
October 30, 201411 yr Author Will work the 'spare' starter. Please let me know if you find a good source wholesale. Thanks rdweninger!
October 31, 201411 yr Napa may have them. I bought mine from a shop here in town ... Mechtronics. He is just a one-man shop. You might check you local shops. If not, I found these guys for wholesale. But they have a $10 minimum order. The contacts are only .58 cents. www.aspwholesale.com/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=786 You want part #66-82786 You need two of them. Check locally, first.
December 3, 201411 yr Author Put a new starter in today, 2 hours in the base auto hobby shop. Piece of cake in light and warmth. Appreciate your help!
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