I've read through page 547....taken dozens of notes....printed out articles...

 

And I'm still second guessing myself......

 

I'm getting ready to do my first EJ22 belt and pulley replacement (Mizumo kit) and engine reseal (1stsubaruparts order)...

 

I know my marks are right...and I should just disregard the paint marks on the belt correct ?

 

Thanks for your patience with a noob.

 

Dan

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Exactly - the painted marks don't matter - but if you line them up they're a second verification.  (keep in mind they only line up after the engine is turned over once every so many thousands of revolutions so to speak)

 

The flash from the camera makes it hard to see but the drivers side cam looks a tooth or half a tooth to the left in the picture.

Is the tensioner released when you took the pic?

Maybe not. before disassembling old belt etc , line up all timing marks exactely (cam pulleys marks at top with corresponding case marks and cam sprocket mark at top with its corresponding mark as you have in photos.

 

if still visible the white line marks on top of old belt should/may line up on these 3 marks as well) Now with everything lined up, mark all corresponding timing marks on cam pulleys/case and cam sprocket / case with white liquid marker (white out stationery corrector best) also mark the top of the old belt at these 3 corresponding points also, then disassemble.

 

The reason for this is that: 1 it makes it easier see the alignment of marks on pulleys / sprocket etc when fitting new belt and

                                         

                                         2 to check the marks you made on old belt against new belt before fitting to see if the 3 white timing marks                       correspond-are similar Usually new belts are marked, so these should match up with sprocket / pulleys marks when fitted.

 

Probably this is too pedantic but this is what I do and it leaves no doubt it getting it right.

Edited December 15, 201411 yr by subnz

 

should I just disregard the paint marks on the belt correct

 

 

 Assuming that's the old belt, then yes ignore the lines.  When you put the new belt on, you line up the lines with the respective pulley hash marks.

 

Edited December 14, 201411 yr by mikec03

I agree , If you got a new belt,, then yes line up the lines with lines on the cams and crank sprocket.       If you don't use the lines its very easy to get a tooth off  or so.

yeah, from what I've read, engines will only re-align the belt marks after 200-400 revolutions.(depending on SOHC, DOHC, etc.)

 

but lining up the crank and cams, and verifying with a tooth count, is as good as the belt marks anyway.

Exactly - the painted marks don't matter - but if you line them up they're a second verification.  (keep in mind they only line up after the engine is turned over once every so many thousands of revolutions so to speak)

 

The flash from the camera makes it hard to see but the drivers side cam looks a tooth or half a tooth to the left in the picture.

Is the tensioner released when you took the pic?

 

 

Okay. Tried to get a better pic. Let me know if you still think it looks off.

 

Car was running that the motor came out of. To be truthful - I don't know how well...but..it was running.

 

Motor is going into a Dunebuggy..

 

I started up the car - checked for any overtly bad noises and smoke....deemed it good - drove it on the trailer - took it home backed it into the barn and stripped it (91 Legacy Wagon)....

 

Tensioner was not released in these pics...

 

Thanks again for your help !

 

I sort of think the LH looks a tooth off especially if the tensioner was not released yet. From the couple I've done the LH cam seems to roll back slightly toward the tensioner when it's released. It'll start and run a tooth off I think you're most likely to notice it lacks power if it is off a tooth.

 

Did you slide the tensioner all the way toward the idler all the way <---- before tightening the bolts?

I sort of think the LH looks a tooth off especially if the tensioner was not released yet. From the couple I've done the LH cam seems to roll back slightly toward the tensioner when it's released. It'll start and run a tooth off I think you're most likely to notice it lacks power if it is off a tooth.

 

Did you slide the tensioner all the way toward the idler all the way <---- before tightening the bolts?

 

You're way ahead of me here

 

I haven't pulled anything off yet - I'm still in the process of making sure that everything is copacetic before even beginning to loosen the tensioner....

if you havent taken the old belt off yet, dont worry so much!

the marks are close enough for your needs right now.

Oh ok got it :-) I use a silver sharpie on the old belt to mark it before removing just in case I want it for reference after. The new genuine belts have the marks so those are easy to line up. The factory marks on the belt line up with the sprockets only once every so many revolutions (not every revolution obviously). The LH cam position makes sense if the belt is ready to be changed is somewhat stretched.

You're way ahead of me here

 

I haven't pulled anything off yet - I'm still in the process of making sure that everything is copacetic before even beginning to loosen the tensioner....