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My New/Used 1992 Loyale

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Greetings all, Obviously I am new at posting on the forums but i Have been lurking around for awhile while in my hunt for more soobs I have recently purchased my first Loyale and I have lots of questions. Lets start with the basic info. it is a '92 Loyale sedan EA82 with 147k. Not sure what the transmission is but it is a 5 speed and has push button 4wd, so i guess that's my first question. For all of you wondering this is not the first Subaru which i have owned. I previously had a '96 outback and also currently own an '06. I just bought the Loyale to get me back and forth to work ( A whopping 12 miles a day) and maybe have a little fun with. She is leaking a little oil but from what I have read it is probably the oil pump needing some seals. Also the lifters are showing some signs of a little tick of death aka TOD but i also attribute that to the oil pump. Also my shifter is supppppper sloppy. I have read that it is probably just linkage needing refurbished or replaced but have not found (as of yet) a place to buy the new bushings for it. Thoes are my first two projects I will probably dig into on it, besides just a standard tune and replacing all fluids. anything else I should jump on early? Thanks in advance.

 

Josiah

 

 

P.S I am currently located in Anchorage. I know the cold is something to take into consideration. 

Condition of all 7 coolant hoses.

How many miles on the timing belts?

Leaking oil pretty common for this old and the miles. Cam seals, main seal, oil pump, cam covers, cam towers.

 

One brush on the alternator should wear out soon, if it is original.

  • Author

Condition of all 7 coolant hoses.

How many miles on the timing belts?

Leaking oil pretty common for this old and the miles. Cam seals, main seal, oil pump, cam covers, cam towers.

 

One brush on the alternator should wear out soon, if it is original.

 

 

I was planning on doing the timing belts when I pull the oil pump since I am unsure about how long they have been on. The gentleman I bought it from had it eight years ( he put about 20k on it) and i know he never did a timing belt so i'm assuming it due As for as coolant hoses where are they all located? I checked the obvious ones. I haven't had a ton of experience with this motor so I probably missed some. I'm planning on doing a battery/ alternator swap here soon since the battery was installed in '09. 

Coolant hoses:  a small 90 preformed one right on top of the water pump.

A thin one from the thermostat housing to the block.

Another from the center back of the intake, behind the throttle body to a steel tube that is one of the heater hose ends, kind of back near the starter.   That one should be a preformed one also, or use a longer piece and loop it up and around so it doesn't kink.

 

When you replace the timing belts, replace the 3 idlers.

 

An 09 battery is at end of life, just due to age, under ideal conditions.

  • Author

Coolant hoses:  a small 90 preformed one right on top of the water pump.

A thin one from the thermostat housing to the block.

Another from the center back of the intake, behind the throttle body to a steel tube that is one of the heater hose ends, kind of back near the starter.   That one should be a preformed one also, or use a longer piece and loop it up and around so it doesn't kink.

 

When you replace the timing belts, replace the 3 idlers.

 

An 09 battery is at end of life, just due to age, under ideal conditions.

 

 

Ya I'm expecting the battery not to last very long. Especially here in AK. Ok I will check up on all of those Hoses ASAP. Thanks for the help I really appreciate it. 

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What weight gear oil does the rear dif use? Also what weight trans./transfer case fluid?

I've been using Amsoil 80W-90 gear lube in diffs, and transmissions since around 1988.  It made a big difference in how the car moves and shifts when cold when I put it in my 1978 4 speed 4WD.   I've used it ever since.  I now have only automatics, so I use the synthetic ATF, which made them shift better when cold also.   Still use the gear lube in the diffs.

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I've been using Amsoil 80W-90 gear lube in diffs, and transmissions since around 1988.  It made a big difference in how the car moves and shifts when cold when I put it in my 1978 4 speed 4WD.   I've used it ever since.  I now have only automatics, so I use the synthetic ATF, which made them shift better when cold also.   Still use the gear lube in the diffs.

So for my 5 speed should I use the Amsoil 80w-90 then? 

Besides worn bushings, shifter slop can come from it missing a spring. Subaru calls it an acceleration spring. It should show up in the parts diagram when you look for the bushings.

I don't have a manual for a 92 5 speed. But Amsoil.com does have a lookup by make and model that will show what is recommended.

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I don't have a manual for a 92 5 speed. But Amsoil.com does have a lookup by make and model that will show what is recommended.

My car actually came with the manual. I will look in there and see what I can find.

Where is it leaking oil from?

      I had one leak really bad at the head...

as a result the lifter/lash adjusters would

tap on that side.......

      I just fixed leaking oil pump.....

You are looking at  a "micky mouse seal"

an O-ring(pump to engine seal) and

a pump seal(pump shaft).....

Do all three........

     I just started using  anerobic sealant

on the micky mouse seal... to put in place

to the engine block..... let it get so it sticks

there.......    I started doing this, because

I noticed... on my regasket jobs.... that

the micky seal would fail..... eventually....

(around 60K) and upon inspection of the

seal.... It appeared... out of shape....

or what one would call, pinched.......

   Anerobic sealant   http://www.all-spec.com/products/51813.html?gclid=CJn43catkcMCFUEV7Aod4G8AyQ

Get where ever you want....... I get it at the local......

and there are several brands of it...... It is red....

sort of looks like "fake Halloween vampire blood"

     Just use enough to get it to stick in place to

the engine block... and make sure it is sticking

there and not moving around....

    Cause yeah,  without it... I believe while

it is being tightened into place.... it sits there

squirming around...... and can get pinched...

welcome to the family!

 

You can also use 75w-90 gear lube, which is synthetic instead of 80W-90 which is conventional oil. Both will work fine although I personally prefer to run synthetic oils and lubes through my rig.  

Also my shifter is supppppper sloppy. I have read that it is probably

just linkage needing refurbished or replaced but have not found (as of

yet) a place to buy the new bushings for it.

 

Josiah

Hey Josh I had the same problem with my 93 Loyale with the push button 5 speed and it turned out to be the shift linkage. Which is a long piece of pipe tubing. It was cracked, then It finally broke and then i had no gears at all. lol Replaced it with a new piece ( from the wrecking yard) and it shifts like new again. I would check it first before you buy any parts. Jack up the car and put it on stands, have a helper shift it while you slid under and look at the linkage. You most likely will see what and where the problem is.

my sloppy shifter was caused by 2 areas. The bushings closest to the transmission stub and the tensioner spring were both missing. All other bushings looked new. Replaced all bushings anyway and now I have one tight shifter, works great.

  • 2 weeks later...
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So kind of an off the wall question. so the "spare" that comes stock with the car is a 4x140 bolt pattern and a 15" wheel. Has anyone ever tried getting a set of for putting a more normal size tire on them and running them on the car?

The T-type spare is a 15, but the width is too small to handle the normal load requirement for any period of time.. If you want bigger wheels, either hunt down the old Peugot sets or perform the 5-lug swap.

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Ya hunting down anything in Alaska is not gonna happen.....

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Does anyone know where I can get a replacement heater core? My blower unit is dying so I was gonna just do both but I am not having any luck finding one.

AutoZone lists  one on their site, #91792 $119.99.

 

Subaru  number is 72011GA110

You can replace the blower motor without disassembling the dashboard. Not so for the heater core. Are you sure it is bad?

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

You can replace the blower motor without disassembling the dashboard. Not so for the heater core. Are you sure it is bad?

 

I know for a fact my blower motor is bad (doesn't work on settings 1 & 2). It just doesn't really blow heat when it gets cold. like maybe 55/60 degree air is the best i get from it. I know the car leaks coolant but I have been keeping up with it.

If the blower doesn't run on the low speed settings, the problem is usually the resistors that the speed switch selects the speed with. The 2 slowest settings are notorious for failing. The resistors are mounted withe 2 screws on the blower housing so that the resistors are in the path of the air existing the blower.

 

There was a recent thread with someone having low heat output. That case , turned out to be that the pieces of foam that seal the heater core in the plastic heater box had deteriorated so that the air could get around the core, thus not get heated well.

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