Greetings!!

 84 gl hatch ea81/4spd dr weber carb

 

 I've swapped out the clutch a few times.

But no matter what... It runs great for a month or so then starts to slip.

It's driving me crazy. I can still drive it but I'm that person in the slow lane going to slow trying to build up speed.

 

Anyone got any ideas? 

Need more info?? 

I don't drive it like i stole it. Got all that out of me when i was younger with a built 74 chevy nova.

 

Thanks for your time..

Edited January 30, 201511 yr by simplebliss

Just a WAG--

 

Doesn't the flywheel have to have a step in it on EA engines?

Was that done properly?

I believe so took it to a local shop. I did mention that to him at the time he said he knew all about it so..

The second time i swapped it all out for all new stuff. clutch/PP/flywheel.

Edited January 30, 201511 yr by simplebliss

Have you checked your clutch cable and made sure that its fully disengaging?  The throw-out-bearing should not be riding on the clutch fingers at all times.  There should be a bit of a space there.  The best way to adjust it is to disconnect the hill-holder entirely and loosen the clutch cable adjustment nut until there is a bit of perceivable play between the throw-out-bearing and clutch fingers.  Then reconnect the hill holder and you should be golden assuming your clutch is not fried.  

Yup... Uncle owns a offroad and fab shop. and helped me with the last swap... cable was clutch cable was replaced and adjusted just like you said... felt like a brand new car for about a month... just like the other times. He is pretty stumped about the issue. even pulled it back out to look for issues. next time it comes out gonna have to look into this step thing on the flywheel myself.. make sure its correct.

You got the second locking nut on there to make sure the cable doesn't lose its adjustment right? My car does the same thing but it's because I don't have that second nut on.

I have heard that aftermarket clutch cables have problems stretching out.    However, I do not have any experience with aftermarket cables.

Can you smell the clutch?

Losing oil at the rear main and possibly affecting the clutch disc friction surface?

Curious what brand disc/PP you put in last.  Did you really find a new flywheel?

last time i replaced it i had to go cheap.. got flywheel from highway auto in monroe

23mm step on the ea81's check that for accuracy next time its out

Whoa!!!  23mm???   That's .905in  I think too much

 

I KNOW that EA82 flywheel step is .830 for 4cyl 4wd and .815 for XT6 spec.

 

I have my machinist take mine to .810 for redrilled flywheels for EJ swaps.

 

I will try to confirm those #s for EA81.

Edited January 31, 201511 yr by Gloyale

all the EA81s whether 2WD or 4WD are listed as 23.0 mm or 0.905" in my clutch book as I read it  G' you ned to do away with the .905mm typo

 

same for EA82's all show 21.0 mm or 0.827 "

 

just recently done an EA81 flywheel to EA82 spec to run EA82 clutch on back of EA81 to mate up to an EA82s 5MT 4WD.

Also once mixed up pressure plates and used an EA82 21mm step one on EA81 23mm step flywheel. Was driveable, just crunched gear changes after a while. Did not get any slip though

Was thinking, could also be a failing pedal box ... they have a tendency to crack and weaken over time.    You adjust the cable ....   pedal box weakens more over the next few weeks ... adjust the cable again ....   and so on.

  Let us know what you find ...  

Was thinking, could also be a failing pedal box ... they have a tendency to crack and weaken over time.    You adjust the cable ....   pedal box weakens more over the next few weeks ... adjust the cable again ....   and so on.

  Let us know what you find ...  

I had the opposite problem with my subee. I would adjust the clutch and in a few days it would not disengage  and I could not get in any gear without turning the motor off and then speed shifting till i got it home. I did that about 3 times so I pulled the tranny to find the fork was cracked at the pivot and it was poking through the shift fork. I put in a new fork, clutch, P.P. and throwout bearing anyway even though it really didn't need anything but the fork. Because i didn't want to do it again in a few years.

Edited February 3, 201511 yr by Fish-N-Fool

I have heard that aftermarket clutch cables have problems stretching out.    However, I do not have any experience with aftermarket cables.

Yeah aftermarket cables for these cars suck. I put one in  and less than 3,000 miles later... SNAP. I replaced it with an OEM cable and man, I cant say enough about how smooth it is now.

Have you checked the front hubs to make sure they are not stripping out?  Doesn't seem to match everything you are saying, but it's worth a look.

Wouldn't the hubs make a grinding sound or something?

Wouldn't the hubs make a grinding sound or something?

 

Not necessarily.  The reason I mention it is because a stripped hub is the most common cause of a misdiagnosed slipping clutch.

Stripped hub would spin all the time. 

 

I would bet this is a Flywheel step issue.

 

Surface it to proper spec.

Edited February 8, 201511 yr by Gloyale

Probably out of spec flywheel. Be sure to check if there is some free play at the clutch fork too though. (with cable disconnected)

Im sure your uncle wouldve noticed that though.

 

A bad hub slips all the time.

Aftermarket cables that have stretched or a out of whack pedal box cause grinding gear changes, not slippage.

Well it's for sure not the hubs...

I have actually had a stripped hub that did not spin all the time...fyi