I just pulled the code from my 88 GL which has been idleing too low and been kinda sluggish. The code was a 34 from what I could tell 3 long flashes followed by 4 quick ones The ECU codes page says its an EGR silinoid or circuit problem

 

Would a stuck EGR explain poor idle and kinda sluggish performance? And also when i pull the oil cap when running i swear it sounds like the tailpape (the oil filler spout!)

 

What should I check? Just yank the EGR thing off the back of the intake and check its operation? Just swap it out with a junkyard one? There arent the little hoses coming up from the exhaust ports on each side like on hitachi models, as far as I can tell the only EGR things on here are the little 90 degree elbow on the passenger side (head to intake) and the big plunger type thing on the intake (also on passenger side rear)

 

Any comments or suggestions??

Just swap swap the EGR solenoid (not the valve) with a good junkyard one.. take a multimeter to the junkyard to test it with .. should be around ~35 ohms IIRC.

 

Oh.. and the oil filler tube on all my soobs has sounded like a tailpipe when I pulle the cap while the car is running.. I assume its normal.

Remove and plug the vacuum line going to your EGR valve and see if it still idles rough. Stick your finger under teh diaphragm and lift up on it (The thing on the bakc of the valve with the vacuum line going to it), if the idle does not change, try taking the EGR valve off and clean it out wiht some solvent, it could be stuck open. (If it idles better when you unplug the vacuum line, then I'd suspect the solenoid is stuck open and is keeping the EGR valve open at all times, instead of just being open when it needs to be open)

The code will be in reference to the solenoid or the wires to it. The solenoid is (looking from the front) tothe left and forward of the throtle body. A 10mm bolt holds it down. It's easy to pull and check and I bet its burnt out.

Strange thing... I used the AC on the car (its cold!! woo hoo) and the idle is normal now... I even drove it around the block and it has power now too. I also cleaned out the EGR plunger thing, it holds vacuum from what I could tell playing with it by hand. The light is still on, but on 88's do they have an EGR light that comes on every 60K or does the check engine light come on with an EGR code? I looked under the dash for the egr connectors too, but couldnt find em...

 

I've done what I can, the car is almost perfect now, but I think its time to throw afew bucks to Richie and his dad and have them get rid of that stupid light!

well, it is prolly that solenoid then..

If you search for "EGR solenoid" or "Code 34", you will come up with lots of people who have had (or currently have ) a EGR solenoid problem. Doesn't seem to affect driveability a whole lot, although I wonder if I will get better mileage when I get mine fixed. You should refer to the FSM code 34 test (I used the one at finleyweb.net for a 1989). You can use a good canister purge valve as well to replace the EGR one, you just have to change the connector. Personally, I did all of that and it ends up my ECM has a bad solenoid circuit now! To the junkyard I go again!

I had a problem finding my connectors to clear the codes. I was looking under the dash for the connectors and they turned out to be on the other side of the firewall. (near the brake booster)

Did a resistance test on my egr solonoid and it was toast. Switched the solonoid and the dash light was gone!!!

yes the 88's have the 60k mileage egr light do-dad, mine came on when i was going to the coast with my woman, scared the crap outta me, didnt know jack about subies back then, still dont know jack, just know more than not knowing jack, anyway i had her look it up in the operators manual and it said every 60k miles, and i had just rolled over 180k.

Wow this thread is old, that car is long gone, still on the road to my knowledge. Turns out I just had to replace the EGR solenoid for those that wonder.