Does anyone know the ratio the steering needs to be lengthened per body lift height?

You just kinda adapt it to the lift.  Cut it, sleeve it, mark it where it fits, weld it.   That would be your best way of going about it.   

Yea there isn't really a "one size fits all" ratio because the ratio changes depending on how much lift.

You just kinda adapt it to the lift.  Cut it, sleeve it, mark it where it fits, weld it.   That would be your best way of going about it.

 

Yes I agree with you.

 

Let me quote a post from other thread, whose info might be Helpful here:

 

 

As I still have the car jacked up in the Air with the tires hanging, to easily Crawling under it and tight the Nuts, I took a photo, using my cellphone's camera, to show you how the '92 Legacy Steering Shaft looks already installed on my Subaru  "BumbleBeast"

 

 

 

 

it does Not need any modification at all, and due to its longer size, it is Perfect for Lift Kits that lowers the engine's Crossmember between 1" and 1½" ...

 

Also the Forester ones are Longer...

 

The total extension will depend on the tallness of the Crossmember Blocks.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited May 24, 201510 yr by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Good call JesZeK      I figured those out working at the junk yard, tried a few different ones.  I gave my last one away.  if you can't source one, it really is pretty easy to fab one.

Actually the extension is related to the engine crossmember blocks.

I cannot weeks weld the steering due to road rules, so I need to get a piece machined up to match a 2 inch lift. Hoping to get the measurement before taking the car off the road.

Edited May 24, 201510 yr by Phizinza

...  if you can't source one, it really is pretty easy to fab one.

 

Yes, I've done that several times:

 

 

 

---

 

Actually the extension is related to the engine crossmember blocks...

 

Yes, I must had a Brainfart when I wrote the above post.

 

Let me Fix it... Kind Regards.

... I cannot weeks the steering due to road rules, so I need to get a piece machined up to match a 2 inch lift.

 

Well, you forgot to specify which model of Subaru are we talking about, but If yours is an EA82, Why not use the one from a Legacy or a Forester, instead of Machining / Modifying the existing one? 

 

Kind regards.

Yes, I did forgot to.

 

It's an EA81 Brumby. Has manual steering at this point in time but with the lift I will be putting power steering in it which completely changes the unis to another version. I have two Liberty/Legacy gen 1 and 2 unis which are 26mm longer than the EA81 P/S uni, I have a GC WRX uni, identical to the Liberty ones. And I have a Gen 3 (BH) Outback uni which is 70mm longer than the P/S uni. So I have nothing that is correct and will bolt in.

 

I took a guess at what the standard angle is on the steering shaft between the rack and the column at 45 degrees. I marked it out on paper and too measurements for a 50mm and 100mm lift variations (I will be only going 50mm as you cannot legally lift any higher without getting a engineers cert ($$$$)). At the 45 degrees guess a 50mm lift would require 43mm extension and a 100mm would require 90mm extension. I guess these are ball park figures I can try and work with. I will also have to see if I can source a Forester uni to measure.

 

Thanks

Have a look at Elfreddos steering knuckle post on Ausubaru http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25276

 

In the first picture the last knuckle is from the MY wagon or early brumby. I used the two long pieces of that style of knuckle to make an extended knucle for my brumby with 2 inch a lift kit.

 

Venoms post shows another way of doing it as well with no welding.

 

As they are bolt together solutions they should be legal.

 

TOONGA

Thanks TOONGA, the method in Venom's post was the method I had come up with myself before asking this question. I just would like to know how long I need to get it machined to before I take my car off the road.

Why can't you weld the steering extension?Do it right or have a shop weld it for you and it will be stronger than the base metal.

Because it is against Australian Design Regulations.

But the factory one is welded...

 

So if you took one, did a nice job of welding it, and painted it, how the heck would they know it's not a factory part? Just wrap the joint in a wet rag before welding the shaft so you don't cook the U-joints bearings.

 

I used a 1998 Outback one on my 3" crossmember blocked EA82 with powersteering. It was a little long, so the column shaft stuck further down but it didn't hit the joint's cross so I never bothered to shorten the column's splined end. That would be another option for you if a stock one is close but too long, you could nip off the end of the steering column splined shaft to clear with a cutoff wheel.

Pythagoreum theorum. "a" squared + "b" squared = "c" squared

 

Where:

a = distance horizontally from rack end to steering column.

b = Height from rack end to steering column end.

c = length of coupler.

 

Add the lift block height to "b" and solve for c.

now you made us all look bad.

Indeed.. I didn't even think of doing it with math... I'll do some measurements next time the hood is up