I have my 1993 Subaru loyale dual range swap. Was taking my time on it however my truck got hit and totaled, Im moving to Colorado in a couple months and have no vehicle except for the broken loyale. Unless I get this woirking asap I'm out of work. All I need know is how I can successfully stab the transmission to the motor by myself?? Its just me doing this.

Also since the swap I have not welded my carrier mount bearing what's the best way to weld it in the driveshaft tunnel?

Thanks for all the help!!

I've installed a trans by myself using a trolley jack & 2 scissor jacks. Fiddly though. Better if you can pull the motor & attach them whilst outside.

 

If you've got the transmission mounted & the rear diff, then bolt the mount to the centre of the tailshaft & put it up into place. Quickly put some tack welds up, then unbolt the tailshaft & weld it in properly.

Don't forget to remove the front seats & lift the carpet otherwise the interior will get toasty...

 

I also drove the car up onto a log on one side to tip it enough to crawl under for better access for welding.

I fitted a tail shaft centre bearing 'mount' by the standard method when fitting EA82 5MT DR in my EA81 Brumby. Two lengths of 5 or 6mm flat bar, 40? mm wide. removed seats, flat bar drilld to suit centre bearing bolt spaces centres, bolt to centre bearing , push up against floor, using string line from fron to back to position it. First used small drilled holes in flat bar to dril through floor from below, then used rivets to hold in place to check alignment, positioning etc, then drill the biger 8mm holes through bracket flat bar, through floor, two bolts and four washers each bolt - done all on my lonesome

Definitely doable by yourself, though not fun. I did it by myself using only a floor jack, some wood, and a chain to hold it in place when repositioning the jack.

I had two sets of car ramps I had the car sitting on that gave me plenty of height to work under it. Do have the trans bolted to the crossmember already. Loosen the engine mounts so you can tilt it forward, get the trans up and forward enough to get the crossmember bolts lined up and started, from then on it's all shoving and shoving.

If you're in a real pinch, forget the rear drivetrain and cap the driveshaft input on the back of the trans with something. I used a cap from a can of wd-40 when the trans was out of the car, it didn't leak but I didn't run it like that. I'm sure you could though, just carry some extra caps and some gear oil with you just in case? Depends on how quickly you need this slapped together of course, otherwise I've thought about carriage bolting the center bearing if you don't have access to a welder.
 

also, the original trans is gone I'm assuming?

Thanks for the replys everyone.

I was thinking about drilling through the floorboard I just didn't think it would be stable enough?

I'm trying to get it running within a night or two and driveable by mid week. The Subaru is out side my buddy's garage so I have most tools, but short on hands because he works full time. I have all the stock parts but they are some 45 miles away ans no way of getting to them. Does anyone have some pictures of a carrier mount bearing mount bracket so I can get some ideas??

I know milesfox mentions carriage bolting a mount in somewhere on this board. Maybe check his videos on YouTube? Does the carrier mount really experience much stress in any direction? I figure it's just more of a center hanger to keep the driveshaft straight.

Touchè. I am watching Miles Fox's channel right now. I am about to walk over to the shop and start wrenching. I will let ya'll know how it goes tonight. Thanks for the help!

If the dual range trans is part time 4wd, then if you get the front uni cut off a tailshaft, you could cable tie that to back of the trannie to get you out of trouble.

Just make sure that you don't touch the 2nd lever

 

The centre bearing mount is 2 quite complicated pieces of steel spot welded into place. Better if you can cut them out of a wreck, but otherwise you could make up some metal plates (inside & outside the car) and sandwich the floor skin.

Okay awesome thanks for all the advice. My buddy and I out everything together, just hopefilly one more question, I went to move the fork back with my hand and its dam near impossible to move it back manually. However moves fine with my clutch pedal. I thought you could move the clutch fork by hand if needed? Does this mean I messed up somewhere???

TIA.

Clutch springs are very strong. I would be surprised if you could release a clutch by hand using only the lever.

Oh awesome! I had a buddy tell me that you could manually move it. Thought id ask the pros! Thanks guys as soon as I put the axles in I will let ya'll know how it is

just be careful shaking hands with your buddy !

I have removed the engine to change the clutch, and removed the transmission to change the clutch.  It is far easier to remove the engine, and you have less likelihood of dying when and if the car slips off of the jacks.  Trust me.

I think what matters is how high you can get the car. It was a pretty straightforward affair to drop the trans out the bottom with the car up on four ramps.

Edited September 6, 201510 yr by l75eya

Easy to take the transmission out the bottom.  But a bitch to get it back in from the bottom due to tight tolerances, alignment issues that you cannot see while installing it, and requiring two people.  Lowering the engine in from the top on a block and tackle, is a piece of cake for one person.

I agree it's far easier to just pull the engine. The transmissions are a pain to get back in through the bottom. Even with a old completely mechanical transmission jack it's a fight to get everything to line up. I can have ea81's in and out in 3 hours with a new clutch if everything goes right using a fork lift for a cherry picker.

Thanks for all the positive posts everyone, you're all the jam.

So an update is in the good is;

Got the trans stabbed and bolted up.

Axles are in

and car is running.

Bad update is;

its running and driveable however, as soon as it hits idle it dies. But if I can keep on the gas little by little it will drive. Clutch needs adjusting for sure. Other than those things its okay and just little things from here.

If y'all wanna see pics of this son of a gun you can check out my instagram

@____493