Other day my car died going up a bridge. Managed to push it over the top and to somewhere safe with a friend to get a tow. It was starting momentarily and would keep running if I reved to 3000+ It was bogging down super hard while driving before dieing and had been running great before then.

 

Currently it won't even fire up, I've read that it could be dist and rotor so I've already replaced that with no luck. I've got spark (at least one cylinder 1), gas seems to be flowing, and my air filter seems fine.

Going to do more reading but if anyone has any suggestions to speed things up I'd appreciate it.

Also doesn't seem to be the timing belt, checked it and seems to be right.

Oh also suspecting an alternator problem... It was displaying parking light, check oil, and charge lights lightly while driving.

Would this stop a car from starting, even with spark?

Dead alternator won't stop a car from running, or starting.  As long as the battery is good, and has charge, the engine will run off the battery.

 

Those lights glowing dimly can be an indication of low alternator output, so you may have an alternator problem also.

I don't know what it is then! Guess I'll keep looking maybe try and test the gas pressure because spark is hapenning. Might fiddle with ignition timing as well in case its a bit off.

Are you getting any CEL codes ?

Country code haha

 

Looked for cracked and loose hoses, there is a few looseish ones but nothing cracked, can't start it so don't know how to check for leaks.

 

Also just got a friend to spray some carb cleaner in the intake and the car sputtered and started for a second, reved as he gave it a squirt or two, then died.

 

I'm assuming now that it is a fuel supply issue, the only thing I'm confused about is that the pump seems to be buzzing and fuel is in the lines.

Country code haha

 

Looked for cracked and loose hoses, there is a few looseish ones but nothing cracked, can't start it so don't know how to check for leaks.

 

Also just got a friend to spray some carb cleaner in the intake and the car sputtered and started for a second, reved as he gave it a squirt or two, then died.

 

I'm assuming now that it is a fuel supply issue, the only thing I'm confused about is that the pump seems to be buzzing and fuel is in the lines.

Just checked the tube from the tank to see if its got rust, none. I have three small inline filters all rusty on the outside but didn't seem problematic the first time I looked at them.

Does sound like lack of fuel. Maybe injector not working correctly. Big hint is the running on carb cleaner. Get a t and a fuel pressure gauge. I got one years ago. Combo vacuum test and fuel pressure. Very handy thing to have.

Check main fuse and fuel pump fuse

So I'm getting no spray into the throttle body. I cleaned everything up in there tested the resistance on the injector everything checked out but no fuel still.

 

The line that doesn't go to the filter seems to be getting no fuel so I assume there is something jamed but not sure where. When I pulled off the filter looking thing attached to the throttle body no air would pass through in any of the three directions. Is this normal?

The fuel pump is in back near the gas tank. It would stop air from going backwards toward the tank. First thing to check, is the pump running? Note, it will only run for a few seconds unless the engine is running.

Be sure and disconnect clean and reconnect and ziptie those round engine harness connectors.  I mean push the snot out of them.

Be sure and disconnect clean and reconnect and ziptie those round engine harness connectors. I mean push the snot out of them.

I second that!! Been there...

So the original problem I think was the alternator and its finally kicked it. I charged the battery at the same time as the throttle body clean, forgot to plug my fuel pump back in when I posted last plugged it in and I drove for about 200km and I'm dead again.

 

Charged the battery off someone's car couldn't make it far enough now I'm stuck again.

 

Was thinking of doing the maxima alternator swap, will a 2004 one work, or is it just up to 94?

Look up the maxima alternator thread, it tells you exactly what alternator to get. Pretty sure mine came from an 89. Make sure you get the pulley lined up as well as you can, I've killed two sets of bearings having the pulley too far forward.

I know the thread says 89-94 or something similar but we don't have any pick and pulls and I haven't been able to find one. There is currently a 2004 available and looks relatively similar and I think I read something about them working with a little extra work but I can't remember.

Getting closer to my answer. Here is a 96 which is a later model

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150017-my-maxima-alternator-swap-with-pictures/#

 

1996 Alt picture from Rock Auto

 

2004 picture from Rock Auto

 

 

They look the same

You want the earlier model. Pictured is the rockauto catalogue photo for an 89 with the 3.0. Notice the location of the connectors (black port bottom right view, left hand side)
That port on the earlier models is located at the TOP of the alternator when installed in your subaru.
The later model alternators you have linked to have the connection at the BOTTOM of the alternator, which will mean you will have to extend your stock wiring to reach it. If that's not a big deal then go for it. With the earlier model alternator, all you have to do is pull the lines out of the harness from your stock set up and plug them on to the spade terminals on the Nissan alt.

Edited September 21, 201510 yr by l75eya

also it appears that the later model alternators top (bottom as photographed) mount has a wider opening, which you will have to take up the space somehow. As it stands, the narrower earlier model alternators are already too wide to begin with, but only just. With my alternator I had to use two washers in between the nissan mounting ear and the subaru alt mount to get it to fit snug. Is there a particular reason you are trying to go with a later model alternator? The 89 model puts out nearly double the amps that your original Subaru alternator does to begin with, and I can't see any reason you would need any more power than that unless you are running 100 fog lights and a seriously boss stereo system.

Someone has a used one of the newer model for sale up here. New I'm looking at 175 and I just can't pay that. Used I've got one around 60-70 but there is the issue of fit... Unfortunately things in Canada are expensive and from what I understand all of the pick and pull yards here have closed.

Anyways what I gather from your post is that if I extend the wires I shouldn't have a problem?

You might have trouble mounting it. It looks to me like the ears are wider on the later one.

Seems to fit, width is almost dead on maybe a touch loose. The hole is slightly larger at the pivot point to but shouldn't be a big deal if I just push it to the edge and tighten it down. I will also have to make a bracket to get it to reach the adjuster but again easy enough to sort out.