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Got a problem....getting it out of park..!


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06 forester

Now....a week ago I got a remote starter put in the car....but I don't see any relationship to this problem

 

I noticed today that if I step on the brake it wont come out of park into reverse.

I release brake pedal...try...nothing

do it 5-6 more times nothing

Then next time it will shift out of park as normal

 

If I KEEP the brake pedal down....I can put it back in park and back to reverse no problem....I can move it 10 times

 

Then release the brake pedal and step on it again...the shifter will not move....

I have to press and release it maybe 10 times before I can finally get it to shift out of park

 

I do hear the electronic relay clicking every time I move the shifter (yes even when I cannot get it into reverse)----it clicks when you

slide the shifter to the right

 

Is it a faulty switch attached to the brake pedal? Is it a neutral safety switch/ under the shift console?

 

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Can you hear/feel the release solenoid at the base of the shifter when you hit the brake? If so, it may not be pulling back all the way.

 

Those are known to get sticky residue on them from drinks/coffee spills in the console. Pull the console cover off, find the solenoid and check it for dust buildup, dried up sticky stuff, or dried up grease preventing it from retracting all the way.

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If you jiggle the shifter while pressing the brake does that make any difference? I had a sort of strange thing on mine where it wouldn't release the interlock but if I jiggled it, then it would, it turned out it didn't think it was in park, so therefore it didn't trigger the release solenoid thing. But if it worked fine before the remote starter ... and started acting up after ... then who knows, I mean it is entirely possible they tapped into or spliced into some wire related to that circuit/signal because obviously a remote starter wants to make sure the vehicle is in park before it tries to start it.

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no sound when pressing the brake....even when it is working properly

The only sound is when the shifter is moved left-to-right while in the park position---you can hear a solenoid clicking

under the dash

I went out and popped the panel off around the shifter---there was a little "cap" I pulled out,,,,,see the picture

This is similar to my 95 legacy

I pushed that white thing with a screwdriver and that solves the problem

It over rides the lock

 

So its some kind of shift lock

Not sure how to get to it underneath there or what the part is called...

 

post-613-0-07065900-1451963364_thumb.jpg

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Ok so you're hearing the key-lock solenoid engage, which is what prevents the key from being removed unless the shifter is in park.

 

You should be hearing a solenoid click under the shifter when you hit the brake pedal. I think the solenoid should be somewhere beneath the shift lock emergency release (white button in the pic), possibly under the black plastic cover on the right side.

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ok...this morning I used the remote starter....when I got in the car it shifted with no issue

 

Maybe at lunch time I will go out and see if i can here that click you spoke about (assuming it shifts flawlessly)

I will see my mom tonight--she has an 07 forester...I am going to listen to hers also

thanks

 

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FairTax......you are right.....I did not hear a click under the shifter when pressing on the brake pedal

This morning it was intermittently working and I can definitely hear  the click when I step on brake (when it is working properly)

 

So what is this part called

Can it be cleaned? I thought I read somewhere that that's all it may need

Not sure how to get at it though

 

The huge suby junkyard 40 minutes from me will sell the whole shifter for $75.....

Would rather clean it if possible

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I  popped off a few covers off and there is the culprit.....It works maybe 1/10th of the time the brake is pressed

Don't see any gunk holding it up

Was hoping to clean it rather than replace

 

I should probably make sure that power is going to it with each press of the pedal first.......and hope its not a deeper problem

 

In the meantime I will get a price from my friends at walker-renton Subaru out in WA state

Anyone know of a dealer who mail orders parts at a discount here on the east coast?

These guys are great and they really don't gouge on the shipping cost....it's just that a faster delivery time to NY state would be nice

 

Added-----wow...they emailed me a price in 5 mins....$41.21   #35173SA000 solenoid unit shift

post-613-0-19580000-1452104504_thumb.jpg

Edited by bgambino
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I think it should be getting 12v. Double check that. If the voltage is low it may be something related to the remote start install. 

 

Also Try to push/pull the lever that thing moves by hand to make sure the lock mechanism it moves freely. 

 

Maybe give it a couple quick shots of silicone spray. 

Edited by Fairtax4me
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To keep the driver/passenger from slinging a backpack/grocery bags/purse/etc across the console and knocking the trans out of park and letting the car roll away while said person is trying to get in and sit down. 

 

Don't assume people actually USE the parking brake, because most people don't. 

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Hey guys

I just checked the brakes lites.  When I step on the pedal and the interlock (at the shifter) DOES work....the brake lites come on

When the interlock does NOT activate with a push on the pedal....the brakes lites do NOT work

 

Are we sure it then is the switch at the pedal??

Anyone ever change this? location? procedure?

 

the mystery unfolds....

Edited by bgambino
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Then a bad brake light switch it is!

 

Poke your head under the dash, look near the top of the brake pedal. There wil be a big switch with probably 4 wires. Generally removal is pretty simple, though I've not done one on that year Subaru so I can't give specifics.

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most brake light switches you just turn counter clock wise 90 degrees and pull out of holder. reverse to install, but to get proper operation, when you install, only push switch in until plunger is depressed then twist clock wise to lock it in. be gentle doing this as the piece it locks into is a plastic part. also; the elec connector has a tab that needs to be depressed before pulling from the switch. if the tab does not depress easily push the connector into the switch then depress tab then pull apart, this removes tension from tab.

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UPDATE

 

I used my voltmeter to see what voltage was going to that interlock at the shifter......(I am not an electronics expert lol)

I poked thru the wires that just enter the interlock to see what is happening

 

Step on brake....zero volts and no movement of interlock

 

When is does activate with the push of the brake pedal....the meter (set at 20v range) would jump to only .45 volts and then immediately start dropping to .02 then .01 volts---the interlock still held

 

Then i warmed up the cabin........it seems that it activates a little more often when its warmer......also.....the voltage gets higher too...as high as 6+ but still drops.....then sometimes 1 or 2 volts and drops.....

 

Attached is a picture of that plunger switch at the brake pedal.....now, maybe it just went bad.....but notice the clipped on extra wire----that has to be from the shop that installed the remote starter

Yet......I cannot understand how that could "stop" voltage from going from the brake switch to the shift interlock........it is only a piggyback wire it seems

 

Bad switch or call the guy at the remote starter shop

post-613-0-81720800-1452707048_thumb.jpg

Edited by bgambino
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Those type of connectors are horrible. They cut strands of the wire when they're crimped down. More than once I've seen those melted because the wire cant handle the current through the circuit after those are crimped on. 

 

Possible that connector is causing your problem. Check voltage at that wire on both sides of the crimp connector and see if there is a drop across the connector. 

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Another thing you could do to try just as a curiosity test is when you press the brake and the interlock does not fire, reach down under the dash there and jiggle that wire/connector slightly and see if that makes it engage or chatter, which if so might just mean that wire the crimp connector damaged needs to be repaired. Of course jiggling it might also break whatever thin strand of wire is still intact under the crimp.

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problem went away by itself...so far anyway

Previously I did jiggle the wire down by the brake pedal when pressing the brake---no change

 

I want to check the voltage down there while it is working to see what normal is---then wait for the problem to return

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