Starting a new thread as my previous one was a train wreck.

 

 

car is mostly together and running. however the nissan optical disc i am using isn't up to the task if you ask me. With the igniton locked at 10 degrees and 800rpm it is in fact, 10 degrees but at 1200rpms it drifts to 23ish degrees and wavering. this may be partly due to timing belt deflection and i could sit there and map out a variable trigger map and yada yada but i don't believe itll be accurate 100% of the time. This is the core issue I believe myself and JWX have experienced with the EA. so, I've ordered a couple of hall effect sensors and have a mock up(i say mock up, its pretty damn robust for mock up) 36-1 trigger disc on the crank and a 1 home on the LH cam gear, as soon as I recieve the sensors i will update and see how that goes although i'm more than positive itll run fine.

 

Current setup includes:

carb'd shortblock,3gen turbo heads,spyder intake

JDM a2w intercooler, forge bov

TWE header, bellmouth downpipe, 3" back to a axle dump

08 wrx td04, coolant reroute

gm bcs

copper 2 row rad, fluidyne oil cooler

Haltech Platinum sport 1000

custom harness with Milspec bulkhead

custom rails, late model 2.5l top feed injectors, aeromotive fpr, -6 an lines

 

 

back half, infamous rotory rx, front half JWX's old No.2

 

 

wiring

 

still sorting it out

 

+1 home

 

36-1 trigger

Edited January 28, 201610 yr by rpholz

I don't really feel like opening my laptop to post pictures but that works. No more timing drift. Car scoots pretty well around my work. Mostly working on cold start and tip in at the moment.

 

 

New problem! The tps sucks and flakes below 20% throttle

 

 

Got the throttle cable worked out last night and swapped the alt to one that works. Gunna try swapping power and signal on the tos tonight and hooking up a coolant gauge. Also the fuel gauge doesn't work....

Throttle position is functioning. Forecast doesn't look great so I'll have to resume work this weekend when I can get it in on a lift.

 

 

Need to convert it to 5 lug as well...

I really love the way you set up the sensors. I have a megasquirt MS3X ecu and I almost was gonna mega-squirt the ea82 then realized my wrx swap plans are wayy better. 

Thanks its been an adventure,

 

 

Why do you figure your wrx plans to be way better? Just curious.

ej205 vs EA82, where to start. Double the power, more aftermarket support, parts available, reliability, cooling, easier to tune, better flowing everything, sti compatibility, sound, and overall love.

 

 

This engine will never make 300WHP and last more than a day.

So 2002 WRX swap it is I already have the EJ205 engine on an engine stand and I just grabbed a second one.

Edited February 22, 201610 yr by D3F0

That post was full of:

 

I wanna

 

Never

 

Mine is bigger than yours

 

Oh well

Haha ok and what exactly is the point of your post?

Why would you fool around with a 2.0? It will never make the power of a 2.5. And we're mucking his thread up.

Because I got it cheap and I don't need over 300Hp for now anyways. I just want like 250 to 300

 

Back to the original post

rpholz

You are doing the perfect RX build in my opinion.

 

carb'd shortblock,3gen turbo heads,spyder intake

JDM a2w intercooler, forge bov

TWE header, bellmouth downpipe, 3" back to a axle dump

08 wrx td04, coolant reroute

gm bcs

copper 2 row rad, fluidyne oil cooler

Haltech Platinum sport 1000

custom harness with Milspec bulkhead

custom rails, late model 2.5l top feed injectors, aeromotive fpr, -6 an lines

 

That will be good for what around 200HP which is perfect.

Any more and no clutch for an ea82 driveline will hold

and heads i think flow to around 250hp. After that 

i don't think it could actually take anymore boost

without pulling the heads right off the block.

Tires wont keep up and all other types of issues

so again this build is perfect for an RX.

Also that is a lot of love for our cars since they only come with 115 anyways.

They were raced in WRC with 190HP and

I love turbo builds they are fascinating

Edited February 18, 201610 yr by D3F0

Hmm. I understand the arguement in a late model drivetrain. However if you want late model performance, buy a late model car. Idk maybe it's just me.

 

 

Now, the rx, had to put it on hold while I worked on my truck.... Now that the ol ferd is not going to fall apart, I'll be back on the Subaru, debating on selling my neon which will change my mindset a tad on the car. Ie:racepack dash and other goodies. I need to get it inside on a lift and finish my 5 lug swap which will differ from your average swap

As for your power estimates, we'll see....

 

There's a clutch that'll hold the power, gotta have the right resources tho

 

The heads will stay on the block, you just have to think outside the close minded stock is stock box

 

I have a dyno at work so there's no butt dyno going on here.

 

 

Also, I can't get the damn thing out of low gear, any ideas?

Edited February 17, 201610 yr by rpholz

As for your power estimates, we'll see....

 

There's a clutch that'll hold the power, gotta have the right resources tho

 

The heads will stay on the block, you just have to think outside the close minded stock is stock box

 

I have a dyno at work so there's no butt dyno going on here.

 

 

Also, I can't get the damn thing out of low gear, any ideas?

sometimes mine got stuck in low you can try putting it in neutral and rolling it backwards on flat ground then trying to pull it into HI. that's worked for me

Well, here you have it. My 5 lug swap, rear is straight forward, front... Lol on my phone so I'll just upload pics. I'll go into detail if anyone is interested

 

 

I gotta raise it up some more :/

So, EA82 inner bushing, welded onto an XT6 arm. Only a bit longer. But the tie rod combination/adjustment is a lot longer than what I'm running. XT6 knuckles? or just a ton of toe-out in that picture?

Edited February 21, 201610 yr by Numbchux

The toe is a bit deceiving in that picture. The rack is not centered but it was late and I just needed to get it back outside before I left. That side will get adjusted in quite a bit when its all said and done

 

Control arm is lengthened by 10mm.....ish

04 wrx knuckle/hub/balljoint

RS brakes/axles/outer tie rod

 

 

The only issue(s) I have so far is with my 225 tire on wrx wheels I need a spacer in the rear to get it off the trailing arm but there aren't enough threads for this so I need to find an extended stud that fits, wheel looks off center in the well, I'll need to shim up the radius arms to regain caster, sway bar endlinks need tweaking

Cool

 

I just know that an EJ knuckle and tie rod end, with an EA82/XT6 inner tie rod, rack, and control arm, zero toe (or really anywhere near it) is not obtainable. And it appears that there is quite a bit more than 10mm of thread exposed on that tie rod there...

 

Have you had it on an alignment rack? What was your reasoning for the control arm lengthening?

Main reason was for my anticipated camber/static ride height I have zero binding from full droop to full compression in the ej axle.

 

 

Again, the rack is not centered at all, it needs to come to the right and the steering wheel recentered. I'm confident that zero to - toe is achievable. I'll be tinkering after work/next weekend and will let you know. I'm also missing one of the lock washers for the inner tie rod so its all pretty loose right now. But a quick toe plate check says it's 1/8" out right now

Edited February 21, 201610 yr by rpholz

I love what you did so much this makes me all warm inside! i might do something similar, you did this to avoid having to modify the cross member right?. 

I've got my parts ready to go any advice?

 

Also i have those same wheels but in gold! mine are off a 2002 WRX. I like how they look any chance you have any better pictures

I am getting those wheels next weekend off a friend and i wanna see how it looks from a distance so I can have better dreams. 

Oh yea, those wheels look great on old-gen cars!

 

And after I painted them bronze

 

 

With EJ knuckle/strut, camber adjustment is easy. I've had EJ knuckles/axles with stock XT6 control arms in 3 different cars now, never had any bind....

Really?

 

Hmm, it was my understanding it wouldn't fit the axle. What tie rod end do you use? I know the ea82 tie rods are not the appropriate size.

 

 

Also, Disclaimer: for those trying to replicate my control arms I am not responsible for any damage/injury/death that comes as a result of such modifications, mod at your own risk.

 

 

 

That being said, I lengthened for several reasons, I already had ea super pro bushings in the arms, I want to use as many current model/ easily accessible parts as possible and for the extra track width. My car is NOT a daily driver, it is a SCCA hill climb/autox/road course/mtn hoonigan etc car. Comfort, noise, vibration, looks are of no concern to me.

" issue(s) I have so far is with my 225 tire on wrx wheels I need a spacer in the rear to get it off the trailing arm"  

Why has no over ever just make a bend in this stock bar so that it could clear beefier tires.

I am talking about using some square tubing to make a ( type of shape to the vertical pieces sticking up.

I may make different arms in the future, however for right now spacers in the rear to match the width in the front will work fine

 

Here's my lazy shot as I pulled into work today