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1996 Impreza Outback Hatchback. - Can't start NC inspection due to Non-Readiness on ODBC II.


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Hello folks,

 

I'm in a tight spot with the 1996.  I am the first owner and it's my daily.  It has only 140k miles.  I love the car but this may be the end of it.  I can't pass NC inspection and therefore I cant pay my taxes on the car until it passes.  The trouble is there are five readiness monitors that have to trip on the car.  It has no check engine lights, the battery is fine, it starts and drives like a champ.  I'm told you can inspect it if one readiness monitor wont trip but not 3.   I can find out what the other two are but I know one is the catalytic converter.  They tell me to keep driving it, then drive it on the highway, then drive it between 55 and 65 mph for 50 miles, then keep it running when i pull into the shop.  None of these things have worked.  I've tried multiple shops.  This is a state of NC computer used to perform the emissions check I guess and it wont pass if this doesnt start.   Does anyone have a clue how I can get past this?  Should I take it to the dealer?  The shops say they can't do anything either.  I hate to EOL the car just because of a computer glitch...

 

 

My vehicle was rejected for being "Not Ready", what does that mean? 
On-Board Diagnostic II systems (OBDII) perform self-tests of their various emissions system components utilizing various monitors while the vehicle is driven. Therefore a vehicle that has received a North Carolina emissions inspection result of "not ready" due to recent maintenance or vehicle's battery replacement or disconnection must be driven to reset monitors to a ready status. These components are referred to as "readiness monitors" and identify whether the vehicle's computer has meet the vehicle manufacturer "enable criteria" conditions to run the required "diagnostic tests".

 


The following are suggestions that may help get your monitors to a "Ready" status:

  • Drive your vehicle for several days under normal conditions including some highway driving at the speed limit.
  • Contact your vehicle manufacturer or repair technician and inquire about Recalls, manufacturer applied Extended Warranties, and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) regarding the emission control system (research by your VIN).
  • Make sure all thermostats and fuses are working properly.
  • If your vehicle has had an after-market radio, CD player or security system installed, make sure that the wiring is not interfering with connection to the vehicle's computer or battery system.
  • Have a diagnostic analysis performed using an OBDII Generic Scan Tool.
  • You may be able to obtain a copy of your vehicle's "drive cycle" from your vehicle manufacturer. You may also find information regarding your vehicle's "drive cycle" in the owner's manual.
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*** Who did your last inspection - can you take it back to them?

 

no 1996 Subaru's will ever set the readiness monitors, it's impossible so don't even try. 

your inspection station doesn't know what they're doing.  1996 Subaru's all are exempt of the readiness monitor issue.  

 

various vehicles are exempt from the readiness monitor requirements of the EPA - particularly all 1996 Subaru's (as the OBDII systems were starting to roll out). 

just call around until you find a place that understands the 1996 exemption lists. 

you can google "1996 readiness monitor exemption list" or someting like that and read all about it and get EPA documents and find other states with the lists printed online. 

 

 

an alternate, cheap, and easy solution would be to just install a later ECU that does set the readiness monitors.  like a 1997 - 1998 (and some 1999's would work too) ECU.   they're cheap, readily available, and take minutes to install. 

www.car-part.com

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okay i more fully ready your post - it looks like you've tried quite a bit.   hopefully fairtax chimes in i know he's seen the readiness monitors more than I. 

 

you've either gone through this before (having owned it since new) or you're in a new area or it's a new inspection program for your area - which is it?

 

have you talked to any of the places about the exemption list and why yours doesn't qualify for an exemption?  (like EXACTLY why)?  

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oh - and definitely try and keep that car - those things run forever. that's aone of the best engines Subaru ever made.

 

install a new timing kit - timing pulleys, tensioner, and belt - and run it another 100,000 miles.

if you don't overheat or run it out of oil those engines can make 300,000 miles without blinking.

 

how to reliably make 300K out of that car:

between 150k - 200k installl a new Subaru alternator and fuel pump.

 

those aren't likely to make 300k and will leave you stranded if they fail, aftermarket parts are low quality, so i consider those wise preventative maintenance.

but as few miles as you apparently drive you probably aren't keen on doing that either....

Edited by grossgary
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The monitors on 95 and 96 model year Subarus reset every time you turn the key Off. Therefore they are exempt from emissions monitor testing. There may be other types of testing (tail-pipe test) that may be required depending on your locality. Subarus generally pass those with ease.

 

Print out that EPA exemption list and take it to the inspection station.

 

Page 31 in this article: http://www3.epa.gov/obd/r01015.pdf

 

Subaru TSB: http://graywarrant.us/manuals/Subbie/State%20IM%20Adv%20PRogram/On%20Board%20Diagnostic%20System%20Check%20During%20State%20Emission%20Test11-68-0233865.pdf

 

Page 3, near the end of the 5th paragraph.

Edited by Fairtax4me
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For future's sake, the reason "non-readiness" typically occurs is due to the pins in the OBDII dash connector can back out of the casing just enough to break the connection. I've had the happen in a 96' Ford and 99' Saab. In both cases, my guess is the auto parts stores that had previously checked codes for me, forcefully pushed their connector in at an angle which dislodged the car's pins which backed out completely during a subsequent test.

 

Unscrew your OBD II connector from the dash, and let it hang. Very carefully inspect the pin crimps on the wires feeding the connector. Since all pins are identical in length, their crimped sections should be in a straight line. Look for a crimped section that's a tiny bit longer, as that indicates it's been pushed out of the seated position.

 

Just push it back in, and if need be hold it tight while trying to insert the test connector. It seems once these pins have been unseated, they'll continue to back out. If bad enough, connect tester end, then manually push each wire crimp forward so the pin is contacting the tester leads.

 

Also, it might be one wire, or several wires backing out. 1/16 of an inch is more than enough to break the connection, but not enough for the entire wire to pop out of your connector. 

 

Any time a car goes from 100% no problem testing to a non-readiness, this is almost always the issue. I stopped letting others connect testers due to this.

 

I'm surprised they failed the test because of this. Ohio will instead do a tail pipe test if there is an issue with the OBD device. 

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