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Stronger piston rings EJ22

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So my 96 Impreza 2.2L consumes oil. Not an unhealthy amount considering how I drive (lead foot). I understand why these engines consume oil especially at higher rpms, but I was wondering if anyone has done any work to add stronger rings to help contain the oil better at high rpms. 

Did a little bit of research on rings etc, and from what I can tell, there's not much I can do on the EJ22 without boreing it out and getting bigger rings. Not the best with engine mods, and would like some advice. More of a "what are my options" then I'm certainly doing this.

The oil control rings have no real upgrade. Once the engines out of its efficiency range, its gonna use oil

make sure you have a functioning PCV system - good valve and clean hoses

 

re-examine you choice of oil - weight and brand

 

don't think because you are always adding fresh oil, you can skimp on oil changes - blowby can put fuel in the crankcase thinning the oil.

  • Author

Recently (<1k miles) replaced the PCV value (it was slightly gummed up not much, didn't help. Have not checked hoses, plan to.

I run Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 (http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pennzoil-platinum-full-synthetic-motor-oil/) with 5k changes, last time I did the oil change I used 5w40 because of how hard I drive, figured the slightly thicker oil when warm would help (it might have a little, nothing extraordinary). I typically add a qt of oil every 2-2.5k miles, so again, not complaining because that's not that bad, just trying to minimize.  

how many miles on the car?

 

your oil use may be typical but, others here have experience running the 2.2l engines.

 

you could try a 10w-30 (or 40) in the summer months.

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan

Valvaline max life is what I was recomened by a few members on here and I went from 2 quarts of consumption to 1/2 quart consumption in 3000 miles.

I run 5w-30.

I run 10w 30 and it's not consuming oil and has around 189k miles. I always run full synthetic (all cars) as regular conventional oil breaks down too quickly and you definitely do NOT want to do 5-7k miles on that. I wouldn't run a 5w in a high mileage car in warm weather. That weight is mainly to reduce starting friction in colder weather. Wouldn't run 40 or thicker unless you live in the desert, get really hot weather, or the engine is being raced on a track, as that can actually be too thick on some engines for daily driving and normal temps, especially tight tolerance engines. Obvious exceptions being manufacturer specifically states "use this oil".

 

If your actual rings are damaged and causing excessive blow by, you'd need to pull the block, and rebuild everything. On high mileage engines, that typically means boring and honing, and running a slightly larger piston to account for the material removed from the cylinder walls to make the surface perfect again to seal new rings on as the old rings would have worn grooves. Some rings are better than others, as are pistons. I wouldn't run hypereutectic pistons on a performance engine, nor would I run OEM rings on a nitrous engine. I'd go with a forged pistons and run rings that could tolerate what the engine was going to be used for. A good reminder of doing it right, would be look at late 80's early 90's Chrysler cars and minivans. They used some god awful rings in those and virtually every single non-turbo one smoked before 100k.

Edited by Bushwick

  • Author

I run that oil because penzoil is what my shop stocks, and cheaper oil makes me happy.

 

It's got 120k on it. I appreciate all the info guys.

wow, low miles! - seems like you don't use the car much - that can be considered 'severe duty' . If the car is only getting short trips on surface streets, you may need to do maintenance using the time side of the schedule instead of the mileage side. That includes oil changes and the timing belt. (dunno if a 96 gets a belt every 60 months or 105 months, also, things like separator plates and cam seals can begin to leak. Valve cover gaskets too. But you said 'consume' so, there's no dripping .....?

 

I think oil control rings can get sludge-y, maybe more highway runs or synthetic oil could help? Or a 'motor flush' or MMO treatment?

 

anyway - like those guys up there said, different brand of oil could be the simplest way to help situation.

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan

  • Author

Yeah, it's got low smiles because a little old lady owned it before me. When i bought it i went through it and fixed everything that was leaking and just damaged. I drive it about 3-4k miles a month. Last oil changed I did a BG MMO flush (shop stocked BG stuff as well) and no noticeable difference. Oh well

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