Hi Everyone,

 

I picked up an '89 DL wagon from a friend of a friend.  It's only got 130k original miles on it and honestly runs better than the (recently rear-ended and totaled while parked) 2003 mazda protege 5 that it's replacing.  I plan to run it all over the Sierra Nevada mountains this summer, hauling bikes and backpacks and dogs and people.  

 

The only current issue is that one or both of the rear drums squeal when you first get going.  It's pretty harmonic, more of a tone than a shrill scream/grind.  It goes away once they get warm, but even when cold it doesn't happen during gentle neighborhood driving with stops signs on every block.  It's only when you say, try to stop from 35+ mph for a changing light.  Do you think this is a simple as replacing the pads?  Is it possible that there's an alignment issue in the brake assembly?  

 

Either way, I'd like to take the opportunity to start doing some of my own wrenching.  I'm not completely green, I've done brakes and oil changes and some other minor work to an old jeep cherokee I owned years ago.  I also own some fancy bicycles and do all my own work.  That said, I'm definitely respectful of the learning curve and I want to start reading/watching.  What are some good references for an aspiring home mechanic?

 

-Dogbrain

 

 

 

 

 

I would sure hope so it's as easy to change the shoes... there are a couple things I would check before anything..

 

Jack it up from the rear axle differential it's 4wd and check to see if the bearings are wore out.. slightly rock it holding one hand at 12 o'clock and the other at 6 o'clock then then do the same at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock if there is a lot of play you may want to look into at the least repack the outer bearing because the inside are a little more hard to do without a Arbor press... i just went and got a whole/arm axle assembly from the Wrecking yard.. another way to tell is if it makes more noise turning one direction and minimal to none in the other.

 

We are a pretty helpful group and we love out Subaru's...

 

"Nothing is more worse than a Dead End road, but if it's a Suby you have options!" Aaahyeeeeee!

Welcome to the Board.

 

Myself, I would pull the rear drums off for inspection of things. Making sure that the adjuster is free and able to do it's thing.

 

Lot's of people don't do the proper backing-up/braking needed for the self-adjusters to do what they were intended for.

Well the brake squeal corrected itself after a few drives.  I'm about to change the oil and give it a little tune up.  All in all it drives great and I'm excited to have it.

Edited June 1, 20169 yr by Dogbrain

Well I got the oil changed and did new plugs, wires, and cap/rotor.  I think it runs slightly better, but I haven't been able to drive it much yet.  

 

The good news is that the transmission fluid is bright pink and clean.  The thermostat looks pretty new, and the belts are in great shape.  I tried to attach a couple pictures of the belts for a second option but I can't seem to get them to load.  They look pretty new.

 

The bummer was how dirty and low the oil was.  Only three liters, and a lot of particulate.  It clogged the screen on my funnel when I was emptying the drain basin.  At least it's got clean oil now.  There was also a lot of oil around the pan, and sprayed onto the bottom of the engine, so I'm going to keep an eye on the level.  Hopefully there wasn't much wear/damage.

 

I went poking around in the back and found the original manual and a Subaru toolkit.  There's also an Interflator 200 air compressor that plugs into the cigarette lighter.  I tested it out and it's slow but it works.

 

The seller has some brake pads in a storage unit and I'll be getting them this weeks.  The squeal in the rear drums is back and louder than before so my next project is a brake job.  I don't exactly know what to do, is there a tutorial somewhere?

Edited June 6, 20169 yr by Dogbrain

Hard to find but on the Back side of the drum there is a small dust cover ya need to pop out... i think it's towards the front side toward the motor...and use a small screw driver push in to release the drum pads in order to pull the drum off... inherently there will be a Ridge on the Drum the shoes will get stuck on if ya don't release them...

Oh ya.. and as Gloyale stated... in another thread...

 

There is a tiny rubber plug in the backing plate.  remove it and stick a skinny screwdriver straight in to release the cam that holds the self adjuster.

 

 

 

of course also the axle nut needs to be removed too.

Loosen the axle nut with the tire on the ground. Once it turns a turn, Jack up and pull the tire, etc.

 

Factory service manual had pictures making it easier to figure out the angles etc to get the adjusters loosened. Check the oil frequently, until you see how it goes. Might be good to change sooner than normal a time or 2.

The Haynes manual has a good section on the brakes.

The Haynes manual has a good section on the brakes.

 

Nice!  That's exactly what I need.  For a 1989 DL wagon it's the 1600 & 1800 version, correct?  

Nice!  That's exactly what I need.  For a 1989 DL wagon it's the 1600 & 1800 version, correct?  

I think so...look for this one

 

 

Public Libraries are known to have them in their collection.