Trying to swing out the driver side steering knuckle to get axle out - top (camber) bolt is out - lower bolt really tight, several days of PB, air wrench, etc.   Thinking of grinding bolt head off and punching it out - wondering if it is actually threaded in the knuckle?  Judging from bolt/nut combo I'm guessing not, but happy to have advice.

 

 

6 point socket and 4 feet of stout pipe over the socket wrench handle.  

 

Yeah, grind the head/nut off, that would certainly work.  stout pipe is easier and if this one is rusted like that you'll need the pipe in the future anyway.  I have no idea how many times I've needed a huge pipe for removing a bolt. 

 

Unless you're hitting it with a 3/4" high flowing impact and air compressor it's not enough.  Ocassionally a 1,000 foot pound 3/4" won't remove an axle nut (and one other SUbaru fastener once or twice), which baffles me, i've even asked before why not- hose diameter, etc, it seems like 250 pounds x 4 feet is about all i'd get from a long pipe - roughly the same values - but whatever the cause, the pipe works when the 1,000 foot pound beast doesn't.

Agree with the breaker bar and pipe approach... for some reason it generally does work better

 

And no - they are not threaded into the knuckle, although they are a tight fit.

 

I suggest putting the upper bolt back in place temporarily to take some of the spring pressure off of the lower bolt. Use a 6 point socket, minimum 1/2 inch breaker bar (bigger if you have it available) and the length of pipe as suggested above.

 

For stubborn bolts/nuts we have several products on hand besides the general purpose PB Blaster

 

CRC makes a product called Freeze-Off that does pretty well when used as directed - available at most auto parts stores

http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05002

 

When that one doesn't do the trick, we break out the Corrosion-X - not cheap, but it does work quite well

http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx.html

Thanks for advice - will try breaker bar, then fancy (low VOC) chemicals, then smash the bejezzis out of it with grinder.  First two sound like work, last one sounds like fun with sparks, all for the cost of a new bolt.  Have been using 650lb air, which has eventually solved the other couple dozen bolts, including rusty axle nuts.  But not this one.

Edited September 15, 20169 yr by flyboy6

use a little heat from a torch, THEN carefully spray with penetrant - the cooling/contraction may help pull the penetrant into the rusty area. easy-good penetrant is ATF+Acetone 50:50 - shaken before use.

nah, it won't be much work actually - use the pipe too get it started then zip it off with the an air gun.  been there dozens of times. 

Well, all ended up well.   I had one hour available today so rather than using it to go buy a breaker bar or more spray, I hit it with the grinder and drove it out.  New bolt in tomorrow from dealer.   After the two hours messing with getting things apart, took all of 15 minutes to remove and overhaul the axle (new grease, boot, everything else good) and button it all back up.  Thanks for the good advice!

 

Also did stabilizer links and new bearing hub on the back, once the wheels are back on I'll go see if everything is quieted down now.

 

I have a feeling I'll have some air in ABS HCU and may have some quirky work to do to finish the system bleed...  Probably a thread in here on that.

In the future you don't need to remove the strut bolts to change the axle.

Removing the sway bar upper bolt and the outer tie rod castle nut, popping the rod down gives you all the movement you need and you don't have to worry about possibly changing alignment.

 

O.