I have a JDM ver4 STi wagon that I fitted a deatchwerks dw200 fuel pump. This pump is appx 12-14 months old. 

 

Pump was great until last month it stopped priming so I couldn't start the car. I tapped and jiggle the connector and that seems to do the trick. 

 

So just a few days ago the car wouldn't start and I don't hear the pump priming on startup. I tried to tap and jiggle the connector like last time with no luck.

 

I had the tow truck deliver my car to my home. I told him about my issue and he said to try and bang on the bottom of the tank. I was banging on the tank while he turned the key and the pump started to prime and the car started. Tow truck driver mentioned the motor is seizing up.

 

The relay, rear harness (plugs 1 and 4), and the pump is getting 11 volts. I removed the pump assembly and just reconnected the plug to test it. The connection and wiring from the pump to the top connector looks clean and tight. The plugs on 1 and 4 look melted, I'm hoping this is the reason. Any idea why it would melt? Just old wiring?

 

aftermarket pump requires more current than the OEM?

aftermarket pump requires more current than the OEM?

To be honest I'm not sure what the OEM specs are. the DW200 has Current Draw (40 psi)9 amps (13.5v)Current Draw (80 psi)12 amps (13.5v) according to the site.

 

Does the pump draw more amps to compensate being faulty? 

There is really only one reason for melted plugs.

High resistance at a connection.

 

I would jumper the plug for those wires by soldering in some wires.

 

Your pump may draw a little more than stock,but,I do not see it being an issue.

There is really only one reason for melted plugs.

High resistance at a connection.

 

I would jumper the plug for those wires by soldering in some wires.

 

Your pump may draw a little more than stock,but,I do not see it being an issue.

 

Im apologize I'm not a electrical guru, when you say high resistance, does that mean not enough power is going through the connection, thus overheating it?

 

Do I cut the old wires and solder new wires for the ones burnt?

IMHO, I think you would be better off swapping in a OEM Subaru pump. Something seems to be wrong or defective with the deatchwerks dw200 fuel pump.

IMHO, I think you would be better off swapping in a OEM Subaru pump. Something seems to be wrong or defective with the deatchwerks dw200 fuel pump.

 

 

Thanks for the input! I actually spoke to deatchwerks tech support on Friday. All the testing they told me to do I did and seems like its a pass, but the tech told me it shouldn't just stop working. I have to call them back for an RMA number since it has a 3 year warranty. But I want to rule out the electrical since of the car to make sure. 

 

I bought this to replace my OEM pump, at the time I was on a tight budget. DW200 was $130 OEM was $240 or so. 

Im apologize I'm not a electrical guru, when you say high resistance, does that mean not enough power is going through the connection, thus overheating it?

 

Do I cut the old wires and solder new wires for the ones burnt?

 

No,it means power is "consumed" at the resistance thus overheating it.

Power loss = current squared times the resistance

A side effect would be lower volts and amps available to the load(the pump).

 

I would cut the offending wires from the plugs and solder them together.

 

There is nothing wrong w/your pump.Problem is a bad connector.

No,it means power is "consumed" at the resistance thus overheating it.

Power loss = current squared times the resistance

A side effect would be lower volts and amps available to the load(the pump).

 

I would cut the offending wires from the plugs and solder them together.

 

There is nothing wrong w/your pump.Problem is a bad connector.

 

Thanks, so I'll cut the offending wires and solder new ones. Can I reuse the old connector? I tried looking on rockauto and they don't have the 6 pin connector.

Update, I found 2 harnesses at the wrecker. I bought 2 of them, had to cut them as I just needed the terminal. I depinned my old one and boy, that ground one had melted plastic inside the contacts. I had to destroy the old terminal/connector to get it out. I cleaned all the contacts and used a small wirebrush. I still have the cut wires from the wrecker, which the contacts look clean. When I have time I will cut the old ground wire and solder a cleaner contact/wire.

 

It fires up sooner that before, no more hard starts. 

Edited November 7, 20169 yr by awdonry

Well few months later the pump was acting up again. My car barely ran, maybe on 1 cylinder, the pump did not activate at a parking lot.

 

 

I pulled out the terminal on the pump assembly, and blew it with some electrical cleaner(good thing I had it). The car started right up. I rechecked the connection under the rear seat, and they are clean, not melted. 

 

Another Subaru owner noticed me fiddling with my pump, and he helped me out. Suggested that it's probably a bad ground which I thought I fixed. The guy said I could splice into the ground wire and tap a new wire into it, and ground it on the fuel pump assemble cover's screw. Does that sound right? Is there any other way to fix a ground?

Could I splice the ground and add another wire to a chassis ground?

I've seen that happen. Old wiring. Replace the plug with a newer one. It has nothing to do with the pump.

 

GD

My son's 02 wrt had thhe same problem. I fought it for months and 3 pumps. I finally replaced all the ground wires in the engine bay. Some looked ok and mostt looked good, but after doing that we have had no problems yet and it's been 8 months

I've seen that happen. Old wiring. Replace the plug with a newer one. It has nothing to do with the pump.

 

GD

 

The plug I used was from a wrecker, which was very clean, no melted or burnt pins. I guess I could look for another one.

 

My son's 02 wrt had thhe same problem. I fought it for months and 3 pumps. I finally replaced all the ground wires in the engine bay. Some looked ok and mostt looked good, but after doing that we have had no problems yet and it's been 8 months

 

I will try this, did you use the same gauge wire? The car came with a grounding kit I will take try and take a picture tomorrow. Could I splice the ground from the pump harness and add a 2nd wire to the chassis(pump cover bolt? So keep the original ground but also ground it from the screw?

We just replaced the main grounds in the engine bay and added 1 more to the passenger side strut tower. I think we used 4awg grounds because they were available with ends on them at of all places, tractor supply.