everyone says try this Department:

Good day sir, here is the email requested. 

 

 

 

               
Vehicle arrived at shop by tow truck.  Vehicle at first would start every
time..  ( noticed left rear brake line leaking and advised customer/left
rear tire).. unable to duplicate no start concern..  after 3rd or 4th day
finally got the vehicle not to start. Checked compression( cyl #1 135psi, cyl
#2 130psi, cyl3 and 4 at 135psi(slightly low but not low enough to cause a
problem)  Checked for fuel, did have correct fuel pressure), vehicle was
getting no spark( to the plugs).  Spark was coming from the coil to the
distributor(nothing from distributor to plugs).  Checked power and ground
to distributor, to make sure when vehicle cranking over, ecm saw signal.. 
it did not.  The crank angle sensor on the distributor was not showing
output.  Took timing belt covers off to be sure everything ok.  No
concerns, no slip/break, all within specs.  Tested with known good
distributor at this point.  Vehicle started at that point but ran for
about 10 seconds then shut off.  Again, no spark to plugs.  Retested
everything as before, then found no spark coming from ignition coil.
  Checked resistance in the coil to see if ok( primary side had .8
ohms and spec is .8-5 ohms/ checked secondary side..   had 17.1
kohms.. spec is 8-12kohms).  at this point installed and tested with a
known good coil.  Oem coil went to .9 on primary and secondary went to
11kohms.   still no spark from coil.  At this point all specs
are within ranges on all systems and no spark from coil.  At this point is
where the trail ended. 

 

 

 

Yes, post it in
the "Older Generation"

 

Note: the dealer has had the car for over a month, tested it with new distributor, new coil, etc., and still has not got it to keep running.  There is/has been intermittant spark.   I thought it might be a ground or possible bad wire/connection from the ignition module, but they haven't found any so far.  Car went in 9/23... still there, but they said "come get it, we quit":-(

 

1991 Subaru Loyale wagon: 220,979 mi. (1428 since new timing belts). VIN JF1AN4220MB417193  Car ran very well before it quit... no oil consumption, excellent acceleration, no misfiring.  It has been well maintained.

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sounds like a possible grounding problem but you should take the coil in and have it tested.

Anyone tested it with another ECU?   

coil tested OK, and a new one substituted to check...don't know where I'd find another ECU:-?

Battery terminals, alternator

Yes, even Fusible Links could be Rusted and failing.

 

Another ECU, in a Junk Yard... but you might test it.

 

Good Luck, Kind Regards.

Ignitor. You'll get spark once, then not again till you cycle the key off/on again.

coil tested OK, and a new one substituted to check...don't know where I'd find another ECU:-?

 

If the coil tested ok,  then check the distributor cap for hairline cracks.  You may also have a faulty ignition switch.

I found 5 key electrical issues with my high mileage 86 turbo.  The problems start much earlier than 445,000 miles however.

1.  Hot wire coming off of the alternator gets hard, brittle and breaks.  The engine runs crappy just before it finally breaks.  This has been an ongoing problem that requires repair every 15,000 miles.

2.  Engine ground wire from left front cam tower to left front body, gets hot at the body connection because the wire has lost it's conductivity.

3.  Black wire coming off the + battery terminal to the bottom of the fusible link, gets hard and loses conductivity at the + battery terminal end.  Only splicing in a new wire section by using splaying between ends, will fix this issue.  Test the wire by trying to bend it. 

4.  The black fusible link runs the engine.  It gets hard and loses conductivity. 

5.  The distributor goes out completely.

 

Signs that you have conductivity issues are that the engine runs crappy when you have the headlights on.