trainergames Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 Earlier last month i made a post trying to find out what a noise was you can read it here. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/161259-what-are-the-signs-of-a-bad-center-diff/?do=findComment&comment=1342541 Well i finally was able to put in a fuse in the FWD slot,and it fixed the Torque Bind for now,but there are other noises i have had for a while,i would like to find out all my problems so i can fix it all at once. Ok what the noise is, while i am driving straight there is a noise like wind noise but loader from the rear of the car and it,when i turn right i hear what sounds like a tire rubbing(i checked there is not rubbing),and when turning left it sounds like lightly grinding brakes. What could it be? My car is a 2005 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS w/auto transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 (edited) if any of the noises are present at low speed, have someone pace the car on foot in a parking lot to try to pin down which side the sound might be coming from. You could also ride in the back while someone test drives the car to try to hear better.has the rear differential had it's fluid checked? the drain plug has a magnet, should be less than 1/4 or so teaspoon of sludge on it - no 'chunks', rear brakes OK? even the little parking brake shoes? Rear wheel bearings need inspection, probably the exhaust as well.wheel bearings are common fail;ures and 'might' present the problems you hear - or you may have 2 overlapping issues. Edited December 2, 2016 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joomanburning Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 +1 to wheel bearing. You can put the car on 4 jack stands, put it in gear and listen to the backside of each hub (as close to the bearing as possible) through a mechanics stethoscope. ($5-10 at Harbor Freight) FAIR WARNING- This method requires that you will be under the car with the drivetrain in motion. Obvious hazards. If you have a friend present, you could have them rotate the tires by hand as you listen. MUCH safer. Even if it isn't the bearing, listen to the hubs, differentials and any other stationary surface associated with the drivetrain. When drivetrain is in motion the stethoscope will likely point you to the problem area, if you've got your ears on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trainergames Posted December 2, 2016 Author Share Posted December 2, 2016 if any of the noises are present at low speed, have someone pace the car on foot in a parking lot to try to pin down which side the sound might be coming from. You could also ride in the back while someone test drives the car to try to hear better. has the rear differential had it's fluid checked? the drain plug has a magnet, should be less than 1/4 or so teaspoon of sludge on it - no 'chunks', rear brakes OK? even the little parking brake shoes? Rear wheel bearings need inspection, probably the exhaust as well. wheel bearings are common fail;ures and 'might' present the problems you hear - or you may have 2 overlapping issues. +1 to wheel bearing. You can put the car on 4 jack stands, put it in gear and listen to the backside of each hub (as close to the bearing as possible) through a mechanics stethoscope. ($5-10 at Harbor Freight) FAIR WARNING- This method requires that you will be under the car with the drivetrain in motion. Obvious hazards. If you have a friend present, you could have them rotate the tires by hand as you listen. MUCH safer. Even if it isn't the bearing, listen to the hubs, differentials and any other stationary surface associated with the drivetrain. When drivetrain is in motion the stethoscope will likely point you to the problem area, if you've got your ears on. I don't have any access to jack stands right now, and all i currently have is the stock bottle jack,but i went out to my car and put my hand on top of the tire and tried to rock it back and forth. The front wheels were rock solid,but both of the back wheels had noticable play... I also got under the back and grabbed the bumper and shaked the car side to side and saw no play in any of the suspension parts. So i am guessing both wheel bearing's are bad...Right? Also what do you think replacing both wheel bearing's and the center diff is going to cost to replace? because i need to know how much to save up. Also how long do you think i could drive it in this shape? Because i am broke right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 I'll risk commenting a little but, I doubt anyone can tell you how long some part might last. It's possible, fixing bad bearings early, could mean the hubs are still OK. at some point, the hubs will also be destroyed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trainergames Posted December 2, 2016 Author Share Posted December 2, 2016 I'll risk commenting a little but, I doubt anyone can tell you how long some part might last. It's possible, fixing bad bearings early, could mean the hubs are still OK. at some point, the hubs will also be destroyed. What do you think that replacing the wheel bearing+hub,and my center diff would? So i know how much to save up to get everything fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joomanburning Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 (edited) trainergames, on 02 Dec 2016 - 16:08, said: What do you think that replacing the wheel bearing+hub,and my center diff would? So i know how much to save up to get everything fixed. As far as bearings go- To have a shop do it, bearings alone will run you $200 each, thats on the low end. If you're interested in spinning the wrenches yourself, the wheel bearings can be done in just about any driveway- Harbor Freight also sells a "Front Wheel Bearing Adapter Kit" for $90 that makes the bearing job pretty painless. I WANTED to do all four after I used it. Snap-On and the other big timers sell them too, but you know the drill. If you so decide, spray everything with penetrating lubricant, especially the lateral link bolts (look it up ), well before you intend to tear into it, especially if you're in the rust belt. Even if you're not wanting to do it yourself, you're asking questions, so I assume you want to learn----find some of the DIY wheelbearing threads on this very forum, so you'll have a good idea what you could be paying a mechanic to do. At $100+/hr. Edited December 3, 2016 by joomanburning 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 4x8x16 solid concrete block from home depot. They ate very handy for hold big things off the ground. Not expensive. Only use them flat, not on edge or end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 i messaged you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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