Donor swapped 90 Loyale engine to 92 Loyale - same configuration with exception of AC. Both cars drove into the driveway. Simple swap right, ... wrong. After swap engine won't start.

Checked fuel pump, disty, ecu, ohm of fuel injector, ohm of wires from harness to ecu.

Checked all fuses, fusable links, grounds, and wire harnesses.

Swapped disty, swapped ecu and tried all configurations of the two.

40+ psi from fuel pump with new filter.

1.4v to fuel inj. from ecu when key is on not 12v as Haynes says it should be.

Inj. ohms is fine.

Engine ran when I bypassed using fuel pressure gauge dump line to put fuel into the throttle body.

 

ecu flashes 5 rapid flashes with no slow flashes and see no code for that.

 

Looking for any answers to this 2+ month problem ...

Thanks ihscout54 and MR_Loyale for your suggestions.

 

Confirm timing and Timing belt tensioners?  maybe it stripped the driver side belt. 

 

Will it run with starter fluid in the air box on start?  

Are the spark wires on the correct plug?  do they arc at night <or in the dark> because the insulation is so bad?

 

Maybe it's an automatic and the linkage isn't in park or neutral, but it looks like it is in the cabin.

Check the fuel line and return line. May have them crossed. 

The post above, is another very good possibility. Actually im pretty sure he nailed it. Thanks John, your fuel pressure is high, and your not getting fuel through the system. I had forgotten that the lines were the same size.

jsyme, same config 5spd man/push button 4wd.I have not tried the starting fluid in airbox,but engine runs with raw fuel dumped in the throttle body as I stated before.

 

John,  did try switching the fuel lines and it ran briefly, but was pretty careful when I pulled them off of one car and left the other attached so I could just pop things on the same way that they came off. Might have to try it again though with all the wire wiggling and reconfigs I've done.

I have swapped lots of engines around,  there is no reason it shouldn't work.

Something like the lines, yeah, be looking over stuff like that. 40 psi is too high, it should be somewhere between 20 to 25.

Edited December 4, 20169 yr by DaveT

Just looked at one of mine - the fuel supply line goes to the lower connection on the throttle body.

Two month of dealing with such an issue, is a true Headache for sure.
 
Fuel pressure seems to be pretty High.
 
Does this car, have an Aftermarket fuel pump?
 
 

... Swapped disty, swapped ecu and tried all configurations of the two ...

 
So, you Swapped ECU's but, Did you Swapped the Wiring Harnesses also?

 

... 1.4v to fuel inj. from ecu when key is on, not 12v as Haynes says it should be ...

 
Possibly, there could be a tiny difference between the Wiring of both cars,
 
besides the Model Year; in example a California specs Vs. a 49 state Specs models.
 
Have you checked the Health of the Fusible Links / Fuses?
 
Good Luck, Kind Regards.

Edited December 4, 20169 yr by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

since it runs with fuel dumped into the throttle body, it has to be  a fuel supply problem. 

 

The injector can be triggered open by unplugging it from the harness and applying 12 v across the 2 pins.  You can see the fuel spray down on the throttle plate.

 

Sometimes I've seen these get flooded, and it take a LOT of cranking to get it cleared.

AFTER verifying the fuel lines are correct RE: supply & return, try spraying a good second or 2 of carb cleaner into the intake boot.  Then crank it.  If ti fires then dies, try a few more times, see if it clears.  The official clear flooded engine procedure is to hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank.  It still takes a good amount of cranking though.

Thanks DaveT and Loyale 2.7 ... Checked the wiring harnesses and they are the same with the exception of no Green plug with brn wire for engine check. Ohmed wires for FI and went to same locale. Unknown on oem pump.

I'll try checking the fuel line location and the carb cleaner into intake boot. I'm assuming you mean prior to MAS not just right into the intake and will try 12v across the fi.

Edited December 4, 20169 yr by paladin

Correct, carb cleaner into throttle body or one of the ports in the boot. Not into the maf.

 

Note to be clear, the injector test I mention above will likely flood the engine, don't even try to start it while doing the test, and only apply the 12v for a second or so at a time. It's simply meant to verify the injector coil works, and it opens, and fuel is there.

Thanks subey gurus, just had to try something I had already tried, switching the fuel lines and it works!

...switching the fuel lines and it works!

 

I'm glad to read that you solved the Problem, thanks for letting us Know.

 

Kind Regards.