I have a 1988 GL10 Turbo Wagon.  I have an intermittent starting problem.  It starts several times and then it does not.  All power comes on and there is a slight click but the solenoid will not engage.  I continue to turn the key to start and after 10 or 15 attempts it will engage.  The battery is new and the charging circuit is operational.  I replaced the starter with a new - not remanufactured - starter.  The problem continues.  I am now pretty certain the actual ignition/key lock switch is bad.  How do I remove it?  I have a tilt column.  I have heard there is a video on YouTube but I cannot find it. I am ok putting in a new switch and key keeping the old key for the doors but I might have the tumbler keyed to the old key.

Check your connections first. If it clicks something just may be loose. Ground? Just double check. The ignition does wear out especially if people have 2 lbs of other keys swinging from the ignition. I just use the one key not to wear it out. 

Edited March 8, 20179 yr by Naked Buell

It is unlikely that the ignition switch is bad.

 

Install a relay operated by the existing circuit that applies more direct battery connection to the starter. Fuse, relay contacts, starter solenoid. This will take all the existing components out of the circuit that are causing voltage drop.

 

GD

What GD wrote.

Added a relay to both of my wagons.  No more click no starts.

There is an electronic switch that is attached to the back end of the ignition key switch.  On my car, the ignition would allow the engine to turn off, even though the key was in the running position.  I replaced that switch.  You have to carefully remove the upper and lower plastic covers for the steering column, which requires removing a bunch of screws, in order to access the switch.

Thank you all for replying.  Does anyone have a schematic of the relay installation?  Also if anyone has a link to the YouTube video of the removal of the ignition switch, I would appreciate a direct link.  Searching YouTube yeilds far too many non-useful results.

I have the exact same problem with my Loyale.

 

is there anyway that GD or Dave T could dumb this down? 

 

how would you go about adding a relay and what would it do?

The relay I used is a black plastic cube about 1" with a metal mounting tab, and 1/4" push on tabs for the connections. I bought it at NAPA. I mounted it using one of the bolts that hold the fuel filter bracket. One end of its coil connets to the wire that originally plugs onto the starter. Other end of the coil goes to gnd. Run a 12 awg wire from battery + to a fuse, then one of the contacts. Othe contact goes to back of starter.

Interesting. I should probably do the same on the Rx huh? This just insures full voltage and cranking amps to the starter?

The wiring in GL and Loyale is quite long. Lots of connectors. The starter solenoid draws 20 plus amps. It doesn't take much drop for it to not be fully pulled in, thus the click no crank. The relay draws maybe 0.2 amp. And the short wires on the contact side ensure full battery voltage to the solenoid.

Yes it's very simple. Battery positive (through fuse) to normally open relay contact (pin 87), relay contact common terminal (pin 30) to starter solenoid, tie the old solenoid wire to relay coil positive (pin 85), and relay contact ground (pin 86) to chassis ground. 

 

That's it. 

 

GD

Hi all-

 

Here is a starter relay I believe will work.  You will note that the poles are labeled for the various wires needed.  I have not tried this relay yet.

 

 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHSR15

 

Just a plain 30 amp Bosch style relay will do the trick and should cost about half that with a pre-wired harness plug.

 

GD

Thanks again for all your help GeneralDisorder. 

 

Here is a Bosh Relay that I think will work.  It seems to be a 30A dual circuit NO relay with both circuits closed when it is activated. Only one side would be needed for this application.

 

Bosch 332019150 Relay

 

It appears to be marked with the Pin numbers you described in your post:

 

"Yes it's very simple. Battery positive (through fuse) to normally open relay contact (pin 87), relay contact common terminal (pin 30) to starter solenoid, tie the old solenoid wire to relay coil positive (pin 85), and relay contact ground (pin 86) to chassis ground." 

 

If you could confirm that said relay will work, I can draw a quick electrical schematic and post it so as to assist others that might be wanting to do the same thing.

 

The link below is where said relay could be found on Amazon to anyone so inclined. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-332019150-Relay/dp/B0010ADJIE/ref=pd_day0_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=89J2X94MX54ZC7J4EK12#Ask

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                      

                                                                                                         

 

 

Here is a simple schematic of the circuit that GeneralDisorder described.  I have not confirmed two things:

 

1. The Bosh Part Number for the relay

2. The amperage of the fuse between the battery and Pole 87 on the relay.

Ignition Relay Schematic.pdf

They are all the same these little generic cube relays - they all use the Bosch standard

 

Here's a cute one with pigtail:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LYW0D55?psc=1

 

GD

Edited March 12, 20179 yr by GeneralDisorder

Yes that schematic will do the job. Nice work.

 

Fuses are there to protect the wiring. Use appropriate fuses for the wiring size. Use the same wiring size as the factory solenoid wire. It's most likely 10 or 12 AWG so size your fusing acordingly. A 20a fuse should be sufficient to protect the wiring from outright catching fire in a dead short situation.

 

GD

Edited March 12, 20179 yr by GeneralDisorder

Cool. I am hooking my Rx that way. Thx guys.