Long post, but bit of explanation is needed.

I have spent a couple weeks searching the forum, a lot of good info, a fair amount on the EA81, but not a lot for the 71. Most of the post are old enough that the photos are no longer there.

Basically what it comes down to is I have an axle failing, and a parts car that I can still buy axles for. I have already swapped the rear over, and am now working on the front, but the suspension geometry has me a bit lost, mostly the strut tops, and wheel centering in well. I am lifting about 3 inches, already have 2 at the crossmember, and want to do 3 at the coil.

On the EA81, when lifting, the strut tops move inboard as they go down,

Do I need to compensate for this on the EA82 struts as well? If so, how much?

 

I want to use the EA82 axles, I have the transaxle to go in, so splines/ratios are not the concern, but I need to move the lower arm out for length. I am thinking I can cut the 82 near the radius rod, and then drill/reinforce and use the 3 mounting holes that already exist on the EA71, thus avoiding much radius movement, or messing with the whole lower arm,

Has anyone done that method? If so, how does it line up, or should I angle the last bit to compensate for wheel center?

(#1 in Pics)

 

It appears as thought the ends of the steering use the same rod, and therefore I can use the EA82 end, which is almost the exact length needed to fit the longer axle without toe issues,

Is that correct? Or will I still need to add additional length other than the curved steering ends? (#2 in Pics)

 

Thank you in advance, really need some confirmation before I screw with it much more.

-Charlie

 

Edited June 11, 20178 yr by charles_thomas

Just swap the entire EA82 front crossmber+ suspension in under the brat.EA82 axles do not fit in EA81 knuckles so they damn sure don't fit in EA71 knuckles.Then EA82 balljoints don't fit in ea81 control arms...

 

then just swap the strut top hats from the EA71 stuff on the EA82 struts.

Edited June 13, 20178 yr by Uberoo

Thank you for your reply,

Crossmember width would be a big issue, and would require hinky, unsafe to twisting force braces or flatbar.

Ea82 knuckles do not fit, I wasn't going to even try to make them, which is why the whole spindle assembly is to be changed, as well as the end of the control arm. please see the pictures. I am looking for someone who has done this, or at least is familiar with the geometry, or with adapting the ball joint on the control arm to match the alignment of the 71 removable ball joint. thank you.

Thank you for your reply,

Crossmember width would be a big issue, and would require hinky, unsafe to twisting force braces or flatbar.

Ea82 knuckles do not fit, I wasn't going to even try to make them, which is why the whole spindle assembly is to be changed, as well as the end of the control arm. please see the pictures. I am looking for someone who has done this, or at least is familiar with the geometry, or with adapting the ball joint on the control arm to match the alignment of the 71 removable ball joint. thank you.

 

You can use wide lift blocks for the crossmember spacer.  Drill holes inboard for the EA71 body, and then outboard to fit the EA82 crossmember.

 

You're gonna have lots more fabrication than that to do if you start trying to mix and match front end pieces.

Yeah, I like that idea! it is a bit more work, but less at the same time. I'm not afraid of the fabrication, I just dont know if the ~15 degree tilt on the lift applies when switching to the ea82, as the existing topics were unclear. Same with the wheel centering. I have enough steel to screw it up once, buy I am trying to measure twice, so to speak.

However, I don't have a full Crossmember, i do have the control arm pieces, steering tie rods and ends, full strut and brake assembly, and axles, and uncut pipe etc needed to do strut top spacers.

I'm trying to make due with what I have.

Edited June 14, 20178 yr by charles_thomas

Just for a giggle, "Can't" isn't in my dictionary. Here are some pictures, works so far, have to finalize and weld in the next week or two.

Only thing I dont have yet is the Tie rods done... Mostly due to rust sticking the ends on.

Edited July 11, 20178 yr by charles_thomas

Tie Rods done. The EA82 items, do In Fact bolt up to the EA71. All I have left is to find someone near Sandpoint, ID that can blow the two 4 inch holes in the steel plate for the strut spacer bottoms.

Anyone have a torch and want to help?

I only had to fabricate 1 part, the strut top spacer, and did have to cut and modify the Lower A arm attachment, as seen in picture. It lined up much better than expected.

If anyone has interest in this, I can write up a breakdown.

If you have a decent drill with a low gear, you can cut the holes easier than you might think with a good bi-metal hole saw. Just go slow and use cutting oil. Makes a much nicer hole too.

That would be awesome!

I have a 5 speed drill press i use for the other holes. I was under the impression that the standard BiMetal hole saws couldn't cut 3/8 steel plate?

If it is doable, It should would save me one heck of a hassle! Might try it out, I can't think of anytbing I might need the saw on if it goes awry... Might try this Tonight. Thank you.

Hey sure! I just did some big holes in 1/4 with a Dewalt 18v with the triple-range gears. Trick is to not overheat the cutting teeth, then you've screwed the pooch!

EA82 axles do not fit in EA81 knuckles so they damn sure don't fit in EA71 knuckles.

The front and rear wheel bearings are literally the same between all three. You can also run all 3 generations of front hubs depending on your wheel center. Only thing that really changes with the axles are the shaft length and strength.

 

Then EA82 balljoints don't fit in ea81 control arms...

The ball joints are the same. xt6 or ej ball joints have a different taper and you have to ream out the hole in the control arm for when you do a 5 lug swap using ej spindles.

Guess I should close this.

Ive often been annoyed when I see something that doesnt have a definitive conclusion so...

 

For the record, I finished it. Been my daily driver for quite a few months now, with no issues. Used the 4x4 repeatedly during the winter, no problems. Works great, here is a pic of the front underside, when I was installing the new exhaust.

 

 

One of getting our Christmas Tree,

 

 

And a Pic of it sitting outside the shop when I put new center caps on the wheels.

 

 

Not the best pics, but it's what I had on hand.

Totally doable, and done.

Hey Charlie, nice job!

 

That's quite the y-pipe there, bet that little beast has a nice rumble!

 

Love the wheels, and nice job on the centercaps. I need to fix up some like that.

Thank you. Yeah, she doesn't sound to bad! It's 2 inch with the appropriate Y-joint for scavenge just a touch before 26 inches to keep the power where I can use it.

Those are the good ole Mazda 6 lug 14s with the right offset. The centers are some newer 50mm 'plastic dome' wheel centercap stickers stucj on the original ceneter caps, bent out slightly to fit the axles.

I think it isn't turning out half bad, just need some paint, and a whole lot of rust repair.

So, just to be clear, you kept the EA71 crossmember, and made modified Hybrid A-Arms of the appropriate length?  

 

For some reason I was not understanding this swap until I keyed into the hybrid a-arms.  Nice work.  Functional upgrade for sure.

Thank you, and

Yes. Stock EA71 crossmember, and inner tie rods. The mod starts where the original ball joints attach. I refitted and braced the EA82 lower A-Arm end with ball socket to bolt into the three bolts that usually hold the EA71 Ball joint, by doing so I added ~1.5 inches to the a arm length on each side. I then welded for good measure.

I used the EA82 outer Tie Rod ends, and added 1 inch to them. It wasn't actually necessary to add to the tie rod ends, but I wanted the extra thread engagement for possible alignment issues in the future.

The length change for combining the EA71 inner Tie rods, and EA82 Outer tie rod end comes to exactly the amount that the lower A-arms were extended for the EA82 axles.

 

Overall, had I known ahead that the parts fit, this mod was *almost* as easy as trying to find EA71 brake, bearing, suspension, and axle components. Certainly was faster, once the math was done.

Edited May 21, 20187 yr by charles_thomas

Hey charles, i would like to make this mod, did you end up making a guide?  I was told by two experienced subaru guys that 'legacy and ea82 knuckles are a direct replacement on ea71 cars and have much better brakes'.  I very much compromised the brake assemblies that came on my car (welded the rotor to the caliper trying to get the castle nut off lol) because i thought i was gonna have no trouble replacing the knuckles.  Your thread here is the only example i've found so far of putting newer knuckles on a 70s leone, so thank you!  I've been reading the forums for a few hours and i'm starting to go cross-eyed, can you clarify if the mod for the end of the A-arm is for fitment or for widening the track?  In other words what is the path of least resistance to getting EA82 brakes on an EA71?