Goatboy Posted June 21, 2004 Share Posted June 21, 2004 Hello all. My 85 GL Wagon is getting a little too hot under the collar. I started with replacing the thermostat and upon popping off the housing to do the swap discovered that the thing didn't have a thermostat in it. So I put in a new Stant 185 degree thermostat. Well it still was overheating. So I bought a backflush kit and back flushed the cooling system and it is still overheating. This all just started a couple of weeks ago. Until then it was actually taking too long to heat up but now that I know it didn't have a thermostat in it to begin with it all makes sense why it didn't heat up very fast. So I call upon you Subaru Gurus once again to give me some advice on how to cool this old girl down. Do I need a new Radiator? Can I flush this one in a differnet manner? Please help before I pop the engine in this thing. I'm going through a divorce and can't afford a new car or engine. Thank You GoatBoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted June 21, 2004 Share Posted June 21, 2004 Don't waste your time on radiator flushes. A missing thermostat is an indication that someone else had overheating problems before you. Subaru radiators are notorious for failing around 100K miles. The typical symptoms are that the car will run warmer the faster you go. Temp guage at center or just below is typical. If your temp goes higher as highway speeds go up, it's pretty much due to an inefficient radiator. Before you replace it make sure the water pump is okay and that the fan is turning on properly. A radiator can be had for about $120 or less (GL models) and is quite easy to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oobnuker Posted June 21, 2004 Share Posted June 21, 2004 Seconded on the radiator! Advance Auto in the Northeast (not sure where else they are) has radiators for like $109 and can usually get them next day or even in the afternoon of the same day if you're there early enough. When my radiator on my Loyale started failing with exactly the same symptoms, I ordered a dual-core radiator from a Turbo GL for the same year (1990). It fits like a glove, and other than using a different lower hose than the Loyale's, it is a direct replacement. Now, no matter how hard I push it, on the hottest day here in CT, I can not get the temperature needle to rise past 3/8's of the way up the guage. This is all with the stock thermostat, and one electric fan - I took the engine driven fan off a long time ago! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted June 21, 2004 Author Share Posted June 21, 2004 Thats pretty much what I expected to hear. Thanks Ed. I really am broke right now. I guess I will have to ride the motorcycle as much as possible, which needs work too. Well not work so much as tires and a new headlight bulb. But I will budget in a radiator where I can. What can I do to test the Water Pump? As far as I know, either they work or they don't. And if they don't, its hard to miss that it isn't working. Thanks GoatBoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted June 21, 2004 Share Posted June 21, 2004 Thats pretty much what I expected to hear. Thanks Ed. I really am broke right now. I guess I will have to ride the motorcycle as much as possible, which needs work too. Well not work so much as tires and a new headlight bulb. But I will budget in a radiator where I can. What can I do to test the Water Pump? As far as I know, either they work or they don't. And if they don't, its hard to miss that it isn't working. Thanks GoatBoy Throw a needle stethiscope on it. Should sound smooth and fairly quiet. No loud squeeling, rythmic squeeks, or vibrating around. Pull off the front timing belt cover and make sure it's not leaking. Ensure the belt and pully are tight. That's about it , short of pulling and inspecting. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted June 21, 2004 Author Share Posted June 21, 2004 What about having the radiator boiled or hot tanked. I've never had one done. Does it help at all or is it a waste of time and money. I am really strapped for cash and if that would work, it would be worth it to me. Any input on hot tanking a radiator? Thanks GoatBoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted June 21, 2004 Share Posted June 21, 2004 When a backflush at the local repair shop costs $50 or so and the kit for a do-it-yourself is around $30, I hate to think what a hot tank job would cost. I think both (back flushing) are self-defeating because they don't help cure the overheating problem and delay saving enough money to actually buy a radiator. Try the local junkyards or Pull a Part yards. I've had pretty decent success finding good radiators there. A quick look inside can get you a fair idea of the corrosion, the fins on the outside shouldn't be bent over, and a label that's still there might indicate a recent replacement before the car became junk. Besides, our PAP yards offer a 30 return warranty; if it doesn't work, bring it back for another or a full refund. Local cost is under $25. You have 7 Pull a Part yards in your area; should be lots of inventory to choose from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted June 21, 2004 Author Share Posted June 21, 2004 Yeah. I guess I could call around and get some prices. I love going to the JY. GoatBoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted June 21, 2004 Share Posted June 21, 2004 When a backflush at the local repair shop costs $50 or so and the kit for a do-it-yourself is around $30, I hate to think what a hot tank job would cost. I think both (back flushing) are self-defeating because they don't help cure the overheating problem and delay saving enough money to actually buy a radiator. Try the local junkyards or Pull a Part yards. I've had pretty decent success finding good radiators there. A quick look inside can get you a fair idea of the corrosion, the fins on the outside shouldn't be bent over, and a label that's still there might indicate a recent replacement before the car became junk. Besides, our PAP yards offer a 30 return warranty; if it doesn't work, bring it back for another or a full refund. Local cost is under $25. You have 7 Pull a Part yards in your area; should be lots of inventory to choose from. Definatly worth a shot if you are on a strict budget. I've scored a couple good ones from junkyards now. Might even find someone who replaced theirs with a two row or find a turbo model with one! Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted June 21, 2004 Author Share Posted June 21, 2004 That would ROCK! GoatBoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 21, 2004 Share Posted June 21, 2004 Verify the accuracy of your guage before doing anything else. I changed the guage cluster on my Brat and the temp went down 1/4. The guages are not known for accuracy. Also - I know a guy that works at City Radiator in Portland, and he has done a couple radiators for me - it's around $70 to have one completely gone through (free for me of course!). Last one he did had a small leak that he soldered up but other than that was perfectly fine - this was on an 82 Brat. That just goes to show that radiators here on the left coast last a LONG time. You might look at the rest of your cooling system, but verify the guage first. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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