Hey guys.. Been quite a while since I've been on here. Lets just say my ej swap is not complete yet but the project is moving closer toward execution slowly.

 

Anyways, I drive a 92 Loyale. Its the 5 speed, push-button 4x4 (which is also giving me trouble as of late.)

 

Here's what's up.. Under certain conditions, my engine will make this nasty belt squal and drop my voltmeter down to around 8 volts. Lasts about 5 to 45 seconds depending on temperature.

Its worst at a cold start. She fires up right away no problem even in cold temps (I live in Alaska) but screams for 30 seconds or so before fading away.

It will also squal at sudden power depends such as headlights and heater fan, and turning the wheel into the far half of either direction or turning while stationary/nearly stationary. You can see the voltmeter drop and return to normal with the start/stop of the noise.

You can gun the RPMs to 3500 momentarily to make the noise face out much faster.

 

Now then. I think its a belt slipping on a pully, most likely alt, p/s. pump.

 

But, if it was the belt on the alt, slipping with the increaed resistance on the pully while the alt atempts to recharge the draw taken from the battery, why would my steering cause the same noise, a system with no electrical? Besides my alt and batt are both essentially new - under a year.

Power Steering fluid is good, and my pump is under a year as well.

Other new parts: water pump, timing belt, timing tentioner, throw out bearing, plugs/wires,.. I know I did more.

 

Any ideas now to nail this one down? Seemingly simple but I can't seem to narrow it down.

Belt Tention? Bad ground/main positive lines off the battery?

Belts loose. Also, once they slip, they get worse. Get a new set and make sure the tension is correct.

 

I have also found that once I install the nelts, I run the engine for a few 10s of seconds, shut down, then re set the tension. Mine have 2 belts, and the common pulleys don't always allow the second belt to slide so the tension is uneven after the short run.

 

It would also be good to check that all the accessory shafts turn freely without the belts, in case you have a bearing failing.

what dave said, V-belts are alittle different from today's belts the good thing about V-belts is when they "warm up" by slipping around for a few seconds they will grab for the rest of the trip, thats usually the warning to either replace it or tighten it back up.

also if you are going to replace the belts, if your A/C compressor is on the drivers side, good luck finding the belts just off the autoparts computer lol, you'll have to remove it, take it to the autoparts store and compare it to random belts till you find one that matches, seems that the only model they care about is the one with the compressor in the middle and alternator on the drivers side...

 

edit: but being in alaska, i doubt most vehicles even have A/C lol

Edited November 2, 20178 yr by Subasaurus

 

 

But, if it was the belt on the alt, slipping with the increaed resistance on the pully while the alt atempts to recharge the draw taken from the battery, why would my steering cause the same noise, a system with no electrical? Besides my alt and batt are both essentially new - under a year.

 

 

Because it's the same belt for both, and it's loose.

 

I would suggest however that if you are really dropping to 8 volts when the alt belt slips, there is an issue with your battery or the fusible links.  Even with belt slipping the battery should hold at at least 11.x volts with loads on for a minute or 2

I had the idler belt tensioner pulley seize once.. i thought it was a belt at first, it came on slowly then got worse. It made a gnarly screaming noise then would fade as it warmed up. it's only purpose is for the AC, water pump and power steering .. never noticed if I had a voltage drop... whereas for the voltage perhaps it's when the AC pump kicks on with heater/ac, lights stereo etc. Could be a alternator starting to die, while idling check your volts on the battery with AC pump on.. 20v on the dial

 

4wd- look to see if all the hoses are connected/broken to the white canister on passenger front at the firewall .. FYI don't know why previous owner hacked the wires in the shifter boot on mine and it came apart+having the same size tires and proper inflation helps... nothing to do with the theory of backing up to disengage lol!

Thank you everyone. Sorry I've been awol for couple days.. my phone dropped out of my hoodie into a concrete pit at my work. Shattered, random colors, useless screen. Coolest day ever lol.

 

Alright, today I will get a new belt, check every pully bearing, and install a new belt.

The 4 fusible links are new as well, a little under one year. None the less ill check all my wiring. I know the plug in at the back of my alt is a little rough.. I've cleaned it up best I can before but I doubt I made much difference.

Whats still hanging me up is the power steering.. It chirps at me with turning of the wheel and has abnormal resistance to the point where I have to 'muscle' into turning intermittently- with or without the loud belt scream. All of these symptoms are greatly amplified when the car is cold, ie. early mornings. (Doubtful, but I hope my rack isn't toast.)

Anyways, looks like I've got a mission to the parts store. Ill let you guys know what I find!

Lyman.. I'm not interested in anything dark web. I don't even know that language. Thanks.. But get outta here with that stuff bro.

As far as my 4x4, it engages/disengages fine but there is a bad grind that increases with speed. I suspect no gear oil in the diff. Ill grab that at the auto store too just in case. If I recall my bottle is damn near empty anyways

I’m confused why you didn’t check and tighten the belt or replace it? people largely removed from car world frequently mention equating noise with belts.

 

1. Tighten belt

2. Replace belt

3. Crank pulley separation - draw a line across the face. If the line “breaks” after a few drives, particularly after a voltage event then replace the crank pulley.

I have checked and tightened the belt, and I'm putting a new one on right now.

As DaveT said, once they slip, its easier for it to slip more. At the low cost of new belt, that would be just too easy a solution not to try anyway. If it doesn't work, at least I've narrowed it down farther.

Edited November 5, 20178 yr by dirtyloyalemobbin

Great. Just checking so we get what’s going on b

Well, with a new belt in installed and new or brushed up connections.. I haven't heard it slip since.

 

Bad news though. Rotten luck in fact. I got tboned. Got struck in the passengers door and wheel. Undrivable. Broke the front left wheel inward. I can fix it.. But damn. New strut, CV, bearing housing. I think the hub is okay but you gotta press it all apart anyway.

 

One other part.. Control arm. This ones giving me some trouble to do find. Anyone have one they'd want to sell me? Or any other ideas where I could find one?

Tragic!! I found a bunch...https://www.google.com/search?q=loyale+control+arm&prmd=sivn&source=univ&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiLx_yS0rLXAhUUzGMKHatdBDcQ1TUIKw&biw=360&bih=512

Edited November 9, 20178 yr by Len Dawg

I didn't see any for a 1992 though. 93 and up don't seem to be so scarce.

I believe they are interchangable... surf the page maybe somebody posted a p/n

You should be able to find everything ya need here.. hopefully the subframe isn't bent badly..

Edited November 10, 20178 yr by Len Dawg

Will do.

They sure seem to look different though.. Ill try to find out and look in my Chilton manual too. My guess is that what I've got under my 92 Loyal isn't quite the same as the 93 Legacy. But hey, if I'm wrong that's a $35 fix. Any one got any more thoughts? Id appreciate any help

You may have to start a new thread... :/

Edited November 10, 20178 yr by Len Dawg