I have been prepping this car for my mom to take over.  I have taken the vehicle through town, and it has shifted through all gears, and I felt no problem with the car AT ALL.

I was still trying to get the tune up stuff installed, and will need to get the hatch and ball joints fixed.

Last weekend, I installed new plugs and wires plus a fuel filter.  I got it done, no problems, just a lot of time.   I started the car and had no problem at all other than the typical engine turning to build up fuel into the system.

 

the ONLY other thing that had been done was airing up the tires, removing the seats for a thorough floor and seat cleaning.....

My mother finally took the car and attempted a regular drive (excited)..... and extremely let down and angry.

She almost got deserted, but limped the car back home.  She told me there was no speedometer reading, and the car didn't want to move (the rpms were rising but not shifting).


The trans has a slight leak at the pan, so I can imagine that maybe it leaked more fluid than I had thought.


NOTHING explains the sudden speedometer not registering.

is this just coincidental?  Is it a typical problem?

I took the car to the trans shop today (extreme lack of time on my part) for them to reseal the pan and refill fluid.  Reverse seemed normal, and I got to confirm the problems: rpms go up, car barely moves, speedometer not working at all.

Thank you for any and all suggestions.

no offense intended but, it's easy to forget to check trans fluid level while idling - it's the only fluid that must be checked like that.

 

not sure that would kill the gauge though so....?

 

 

plugs and wires, were they NGK?

99s have problems with the speedometer. Broken solder joint on the PCB behind the speedo head.

Google search for Subaru speedometer fix and there's tons of threads on how to repair that.

 

Pretty sure the shift problem is because the trans is in limp mode (stays in 3rd gear) due to no speedometer input to the TCU. Fixing the speedometer issue should take care of that.

One thing to check just in case is the main wire harness plugs that go to the transmission. There's one plug up above the bellhousing, and one on the side where the harness goes into the trans. Corrosion or poor connection in either of those plugs can cause the trans to go in limp mode.

Dealer sells the Speedo head for about $200 or you can solder the circuit board yourself. Known problem and quite common.

 

Trans probably needs replaced.

 

GD

Edited December 6, 20178 yr by GeneralDisorder

Thanks everyone.

After posting this, I was searching again about the typical problem on the speedo, and the associated fix.


The trans shop hasn't messed with it yet.  I checked the fluid while running, but I am thinking that maybe the leak is worse than I originally thought/ lost more that soaked into ground...

 

plugs were NGK.  Wires were Beck Arnley.

wires may not work well so, be prepared to swap for OEM if you have issues later.

How high do the RPMs go if you floor it from a stop? If you're stuck in limp mode (and thus third gear), you should hit torque converter stall around 2500 or so, can't remember the exact RPM. Not too high, though. If you mash the gas from a stop and hit redline, or over like 3k rpm your transmission is smoked, it's slipping really bad.

This is a JEBA trans.
I picked the car back up yesterday.....  I did not feel a 1-2 shift.   2-3 shifted at about 2500, but I was going up an onramp.  3-4 shifted about 3000.  


While on the highway, I was still going up hill, it downshifted (no idea of speed)  then shifted back up to 4 at about 4000.





uhhhh....... all of this was my fault.   I am too rushed for time, and apparently the vehicle leaked way too much fluid directly onto the ground after I had checked it.  Trans shop told me it was 4 quarts low.  I use Suzuki bond on gasket surfaces.   I have always had good luck, and never a problem with any sealing.   I must have squeezed out the trans pan gasket. 

is the speedometer working?

no. I will hopefully be addressing that soon.

I bought the car off of my friend's girlfriend...My friend confirmed that the speedo would sometimes not work.  I assume this is definitely the ground issue.

You used a gasket and sealant on the trans pan?

The gasket is pointless. These pans have flat sealing flanges and are sealed from the factory with just RTV sealant.

I've started using Permatex Transmission pan sealant on every trans pan I do. I fill the trans immediately after installing the pan and none have ever leaked.

 

Also for what it's worth, there's no reason to ever use a gasket AND sealant at the same time except for a drop in some corners/seams where two parts meet. Gaskets are made to seal without the use of any other sealant. If a gasket doesn't seal by itself either the surfaces are not clean or the gasket just sucks (often the case with parts store gaskets).

Sealant OR a gasket, never both.

Edited December 8, 20178 yr by Fairtax4me

Some years of the 4EAT did call for a gasket. After those earlier models Subaru switched to Three Bond products. Used to be 1217B for trans pan and is now superseded to 1217H.

 

GD

I have a 99 instrument cluster with the wire fix installed.  $50 shipped.

I will keep the gauge purchase in mind, but I am going to try the fix myself, to keep the correct mileage etc.

It worked for me the other day, then didn't work again for my mom.......

NOW, I will be trying to chase down the lack of power issue.  

ALL new tune-up stuff, including new O2 sensors and catalytic convertors, but the middle pipe that connects them to the muffler is still missing for now.  I am still getting an O2 sensor code, but I read that will happen with the exhaust not buttoned up.......   I don't think the lack of power is related though.


I read it is typical for the mass air flow sensor to need cleaned, and the throttle position sensor to read incorrect.

The only other problem that I am seeing is it takes quite a few turns for the engine to start,

onn the slow to fire-up; try either one of these; spray some starter fluid in the intake and start - if it starts more quickly, could be a fueling issue. ALSO, before starting, cycle the key from OFF to ON (not START) several times in succession; ON, wait for a 4 or 5 count, OFF, ON, wait for a 4-5 count, OFF, ON - wait, OFF, then START. Each time you go to ON, the fuel pump should pressure-up the rails for a coupla seconds so, if the car fires more quickly, it may mean there is a leak in the fuel system and the pressure is dropping when the car sits.

 

 

if neither of those tricks help, it likely eliminates fuel supply problems.

I figured out the slow start up/fuel leak problem: seems like a rusted fuel filler neck.

I figured out the "transmission" problem and shifting and/or lack of power.... Knock sensor.    I finally got to change it yesterday, then drove the car over 100 miles.  mpg and drivability changed dramatically!   insane change.