Ok i am trying to get my starter off so i can take it to autozone and have it checked, so i can start working on getting this car revived...

 

 

But after getting the top bolt off i am having trouble finding a way to get down to the bottom bolt.

 

Keep in mind i have a basic tool set and currently only have the jack that came with the car...

Ratcheting wrench.  Removing the windshield washer res will help you reach down there.

on my 05 outback required swivel and approach from underneath

on my 05 outback required swivel and approach from underneath

 

 

That works.  And if I'm doing a full engine/trans removal often I go this route.

 

But isn't "required", especially just for starter removal, no need to get under the car.

 

It can be done with a box end wrench or a ratcheting wrench.

what size is that bolt head?

i've never had a problem with basic tools - it's annoying you can need some can-do attitude to go at a nut that's hard to see, but it's there and accessible with some effort and snaking around throttle cables and hoses or whatever.

 

are you sure it's even the starter?  did you check if it's getting 12 volts and signal wire?

 

if it is the "starter" replace the contacts for a few dollars and keep your original high quality starter over the aftermarket stuff.  very easy to do and the most common wear item on a subaru starter.

what size is that bolt head?

 

14mm....maybe 12mm but pretty sure they're all 14. 

14mm....maybe 12mm but pretty sure they're all 14. 

 

14mm or 17mm

 

It's an m10 x1.25 thread, but often the lower starter nut is a 17mm head if it's the nut on stud.  If it's the pass through bolt (MT) it will be 14mm.

what size is that bolt head?

 

 

14mm....maybe 12mm but pretty sure they're all 14. 

 

 

14mm or 17mm

 

It's an m10 x1.25 thread, but often the lower starter nut is a 17mm head if it's the nut on stud.  If it's the pass through bolt (MT) it will be 14mm.

 

Top and bottom are both 14mm.

 

 

i've never had a problem with basic tools - it's annoying you can need some can-do attitude to go at a nut that's hard to see, but it's there and accessible with some effort and snaking around throttle cables and hoses or whatever.

 

are you sure it's even the starter?  did you check if it's getting 12 volts and signal wire?

 

if it is the "starter" replace the contacts for a few dollars and keep your original high quality starter over the aftermarket stuff.  very easy to do and the most common wear item on a subaru starter.

I removed the washer fluid res, and i can get my socket on but then i have hoses and steering in the way,i tried a 3in extension and the same things even more in the way.

 

I tried 2 3in extensions and i can a lot better hand grip,but can't get the socket to stay on because the mount for the tranny dipstick is in the way...

 

Any advice?

I go under behind wheel with two foot extension and 14mm swivel socket.

I removed the washer fluid res, and i can get my socket on but then i have hoses and steering in the way,i tried a 3in extension and the same things even more in the way.

 

I tried 2 3in extensions and i can a lot better hand grip,but can't get the socket to stay on because the mount for the tranny dipstick is in the way...

 

Any advice?

 

No socket.  That pushes the handle further back towards the firewall.  

 

Box end of a combo wrench to break loose. Then gear wrench (ratcheting wrench) for the rest.

Well i finally got it off and had it checked and it works so where should i go from here to see what is wrong?

well, I don't recall what the complaint was, other than asking how to remove it.

 

how many miles are on it?, Personally, I'd probably rebuild the solenoid before putting it back on if it's a typical Denso. If it's one of the new planetary starters, I'd lube the pinion shaft or w'ever it's called.

Edited March 10, 20188 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

Well i had posted about the car a couple times before,and the car is a car that got flooded some(but not enough to get into the engine).

 

With a fresh battery the light come on and the windows still roll down,but when i try to start it all that happens is that the lights dim,does not crank and or even click.

 

 

If it helps i do have a cheap multi meter but not sure where to check.

It’s probably not the starter, but a short or ground somewhere. Best not to guess.

 

Check voltage at the starter when cranking. It either has 12 volts or it doesn’t.

 

Probably bad battery, grounds, clamps, terninals or connections.

Have you rotated the engine by hand to make sure it's not seized or Hydro locked?

Sorry for such late replys but i have been busy with my day job.

It’s probably not the starter, but a short or ground somewhere. Best not to guess.

Check voltage at the starter when cranking. It either has 12 volts or it doesn’t.

Probably bad battery, grounds, clamps, terninals or connections.

I have been checking the starter and i also replaced the positive battery terminal connector,because it looked pretty bad.

 

I have noticed that when using the multimeter i would put the positive one on the positive battery terminal and the other on the starter solenoid bolt,and i get a reading of 19 on the second bolt,but the main one with a wire coming from the positive battery terminal,i get a reading of 0.

 

I am wondering if the the battery cable is bad or if it is the starter solenoid that is bad.

 

What do you think?

Have you rotated the engine by hand to make sure it's not seized or Hydro locked?

I picked up a 22mm socket,and tried,and while i didn't have much room due to hoses and stuff i got it to move like half an inch.

+ve to +ve should give you 0 V.

But 19V from +ve to ground, doesn't sound right. Should be about 14V with the engine running, and about 12.5V with the engine off.

Edited March 16, 20188 yr by forester2002s

Radiater fans are easy to remove,giving you more room to turn engine,make sure in neutrel

Oh and take Sparks out first just in case it is hydro lock, you don't want to bend a piston connecting rod,been there done that!

Spark plugs that is.