Having some issues with my hatchback, looking for a recommendation for a mechanic/shop near Medford OR. 

Someone I can use for future help as well. 

 

Thanks

could you get it to Portland? even if you can't call http://superiorsoobie.com/

 

that is General Disorder's shop - maybe call him anyway, he may be able to suggest a good shop near medford

Good to know. I have a brat up in Portland that I’ll need help with when I get to it. 

Thanks

I have customers that travel here (Portland) from Medford. I don't know of anyone in that area that really knows EA's. It's a dying art working on the old stuff. Fortunately I have a couple tech's in addition to myself that have considerable experience with them. Parts availability is the biggest issue but I know all the sources and can usually get myself out of most jams..... unless you need an oil pump. Then you're just hosed. 

I have customers in Medford, Seattle, and even Lake Tahoe. Other than the drive time it's usually cheaper in the long run to have it done right that to have it done twice. 

GD

Edited May 19, 20196 yr by GeneralDisorder

It’s probably something simple. Either timing or carb. I just don’t have enough knowledge. 

I bought a timing light but I don’t see a gauge or tab or whatever near the harmonic balancer, so I don’t know where to go from there. 

I also have a spare hitachi carb that I could send to you for a rebuild at least so that’s good to know. 

I’ll find your business details and ask about that. 

I’m pretty sure I have met with one of your techs before for a parts swap. 

The timing marks are viewed through an opening in the bell housing behind the carb or throttle body.   There should be a black rubber plug covering it.

4 minutes ago, DaveT said:

The timing marks are viewed through an opening in the bell housing behind the carb or throttle body.   There should be a black rubber plug covering it.

Any pointers 

Wrong side of the engine. Ok I see that. Now do I just match the timing light up with that little tab?

I can't tell from that angle....
The marks are on the face of the flywheel that faces toward the front of the car.  There should be a V [but with one edge vertical]  in the opening revealed by removing the rubber plug.  That vertical edge is the mark.  The degrees and zero are embossed on the flywheel.

Depending on the type of engine and fuel delivery, there may be wires or hoses to plug / unplug / connect. to set or check timing.

We don't rebuild Hitachi's. They are typically not worth the effort. The Weber swap is less expensive than dealing with all that foolishness. 

GD

Oh. Hooray. 

I know nothing about it but, the other day , I stumbled across some places that claim to offer carbs or carb exchange services.

https://www.carburetorexchange.com/search.php

https://guaranteedcarburetors.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjwqqrmBRAAEiwAdpDXtM5CF5w0QlS1vKEp75_LEePH42166SNfr9mzKCeIXzggnUk2GdbH-RoCFcAQAvD_BwE

https://www.carbs.us/?gclid=CjwKCAjwqqrmBRAAEiwAdpDXtCEVZWqjQ-3oWvtCgAA9aaJqqtYovacfy0RHmlihPinSyCQkWEqnURoCf3kQAvD_BwE

 

just fyi

 

 

NEVER, EVER, EVER exchange the original carb off a vehicle as a "core" for some re-manufactured garbage. Pay the core if you must and are really into masochism. 

GD

Edited May 20, 20196 yr by GeneralDisorder

Well I don’t even know what that word means. I’m into trying to get this thing running. 

I didn’t think I could afford a Weber. 

But now I don’t think I could afford either. 

A Weber and all associated parts and fluids should cost around $400 if you install yourself. About $800 if we do it. 

GD

I was going through the read up that was posted, doesn’t seem too hard to do. But I’ll see what I can do for saving money.