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Once again - noisy lifters


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How can I fix this problem? When i change oil in the EA82 machine, the motor runs quietly, but after 800 miles it start to run as before i changed oil. Oil is shell 15W40.

 

How can i change last wheel bearing?

 

Can someone put here the pictures of lift kit for 85 GL wagon? I already lift it cor 2 inches, but i,d like to lift it for 5"

 

The suba is 85 GL wagon vith carb EA82 and 5sp. gearbox.

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As far as noisy lifters go, my solution is really simple. I use 5-20 Valvoline and change it every 3000 miles religiously. Twice a year, just before I'm ready to change the oil, I pull a quart of oil out of the engine and replace it with a quart of automatic transmission fluid. Its non-corrosive, has decent lubricating qualities and is a darn effective cleaner. Once you've added the tranny fluid, run it till the oil (and tranny fluid) gets good and hot, then change the oil and filter. Voila...no more (or at least a lot less) gunk in your engine.

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Yesterday i changed sparks, oil 20W50 and oil filter, air filter. Till now i created 200 miles and the sound is the same as before. I will try and add one liter transmission oil 75W-90. Can this make some changes?

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Yesterday i changed sparks, oil 20W50 and oil filter, air filter. Till now i created 200 miles and the sound is the same as before. I will try and add one liter transmission oil 75W-90. Can this make some changes?

STOP. Do not add 75W-90. That is gear oil for your standard transmission. You want to add one quart Automatic Transmission Fluid to your engine oil, not gear oil.

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As far as noisy lifters go, my solution is really simple. I use 5-20 Valvoline

Seems to me this is the opposite of what everyone else does on the board - 5W20 is VERRY thin oil! Would make me nervous to run this in anything other than a brand new Mazda, Ford or Honda (which specifies this water/oil). The point of running thicker oil is to keep the oil pressure up to compensate for the Mickey Mouse seal leak, is it not? And the fix is to replace that seal?

 

Note that this is not an indictment of your particular method, just questioning - I have the intermittent lifter tick that didn't fix with engine flush (I used it instead of ATF so I would have recourse if the engine torpedoed) and MMO. I intend to do the seals when I do the timing belts.

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How can I fix this problem? When i change oil in the EA82 machine, the motor runs quietly, but after 800 miles it start to run as before i changed oil. Oil is shell 15W40.

 

How can i change last wheel bearing?

 

Can someone put here the pictures of lift kit for 85 GL wagon? I already lift it cor 2 inches, but i,d like to lift it for 5"

 

The suba is 85 GL wagon vith carb EA82 and 5sp. gearbox.

Try using the SEARCH function to see what has been discussed before - "Lifter noise" or "lifter ticking" for the noise question, "wheel bearing" for the second.

 

By the way, it's cool to have you on the board! Amazing that we can talk about Subarus so far away from you and (hopefully) help you.

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B45702

Oil Pump Mounting Seal EA82

oilpumpmounting.jpg

this is the seal you can replace on the oil pump, this will hel[p maintain internal oil pressure if air bubbles in the oil are causing the noist lifters. there is another o-ring on the oil pump itself, get that too. ATF wont do any good unless you plan to change the oil again.

if oil pressure itself may be an issue, thicker oil like 20w 50 would be ideal

i suggest running open timing belts(no covers) makes this type of work quicjk without having to remove a bunch of stuff

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Lets Hear it for Marvel Mystery Oil!! This engine EA82 sat for a long while and it sounded like a pwr stroke diesel. I used a stethascope so I knew It was on pass sidel It was idling about 1000 rpm's and I added about a pint to crankcase. Five minutes later it sounded like a Subaru. I've heard about AT fluid but this was on my shelf so I tried it and it worked!!!!

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Seems to me this is the opposite of what everyone else does on the board - 5W20 is VERRY thin oil! Would make me nervous to run this in anything other than a brand new Mazda, Ford or Honda (which specifies this water/oil). The point of running thicker oil is to keep the oil pressure up to compensate for the Mickey Mouse seal leak, is it not? And the fix is to replace that seal?

 

Note that this is not an indictment of your particular method, just questioning - I have the intermittent lifter tick that didn't fix with engine flush (I used it instead of ATF so I would have recourse if the engine torpedoed) and MMO. I intend to do the seals when I do the timing belts.

 

Sorry...must have hit a wrong key...5-30. Still...yes it is very thin oil, though not as thin as the salad oil I've used in my other favorite car. My SHO got 0W-20 synthetic.

 

Anyway, yes, the point of running the heavier oil is to keep oil pressure up, usually in an engine with some wear on it. However, at 267 kilomiles, my 83 still has decent oil pressure at idle, and the pressure rises appropriately with RPM. Now, my engine DOES leak oil, but not at the oil pump. one of these days, I'll get around to replacing my valve cover gaskets. It loses less than a quart every 2300, so I'm not overly worried about it. I'll get to it at some point. I settled on 5-30 for the 83 after some experimentation with the 81. The 81 got much worse (~3-5 mpg less) mileage on 20-50 than on 5-30. :banghead: With a fresh set of seals, it doesn't leak, and the motor doesn't burn any...yet, so I see no need to sacrifice mileage for leak or burn protection that I don't yet need.

 

I'm not saying that everyone should run right out and dump their 20-50 in favor of something lighter. Hey, if it works for you, great! I've just found that, for my situation, the 5-20 does a better job than the heavier oils.

 

You're right, though...if you use ATF, you MUST CHANGE THE OIL!!!!! When I do this, I drive a minimum of 70 miles and amax of 100. mostly thats to get everything nice and hot and to make sure that the ATF gets circulated nicely. Having done that, change the oil and filter and voila....

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