Hyacinth Posted July 16, 2019 Share Posted July 16, 2019 My Subaru Outback is currently stranded, unable to start or turn over. I was able to correct this issue roughly a month ago after removing then reconnecting the battery terminals. The battery has been tested and passed with no problems. I also noticed that the car has power when the key is in the on position but loses power if I apply the brakes or turn the ignition to the "start" position. I also saw a bit of corrosion on the negative battery terminal so my next step will be to grab a multimeter and go check voltage to the terminals. I'm sure both incidents occurred just after a heavy rain storm but that could be a coincidence. What else should I check when I get my hands on a multimeter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted July 16, 2019 Share Posted July 16, 2019 it does seem like you could have a bad battery connection or bad battery cable. do you hear a 'click' when it fails to crank? Could be a bad starter solenoid or starter motor.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyacinth Posted July 16, 2019 Author Share Posted July 16, 2019 That is a definite possibility. The last time I ran into this issue I had clicking when I tried to start the vehicle. This time I don't get any clicking unless I disconnect the battery for a few minutes. After going through this process I get one click on the first start attempt and then nothing. Any idea what that would indicate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted July 16, 2019 Share Posted July 16, 2019 (edited) just some wild ideas..... if it 'clicked' without any noticeable reduction in power to lights or anything, I'd suspect the contacts in the solenoid. but, with the power drain, it could be anything from a shorted brake wire to a seized engine I guess....? you should be able to test all the brake lights and marker lights. If they are all good, maybe there's shorted wire in the boot from the body to the rear hatch - try starting or test brake lights with the hatch up...? you may need to charge the battery independently to do any testing. You might consider a new thread, asking for a shop recommendation near Asheville. Someone may direct you to a subaru-friendly independent mechanic. Edited July 16, 2019 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniberp1 Posted July 16, 2019 Share Posted July 16, 2019 (edited) Bad ground. Grab each end of the negative battery cable and give it a good bend and twist. The copper wires in the OEM cable are very fine and can corrode through. If that fixes it replace the cable anyhow. Edited July 16, 2019 by uniberp1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted July 16, 2019 Share Posted July 16, 2019 (edited) If all tests ok with the battery/cabling, as Lucky T mentioned, possibly an issue with the starter. When you say the "start" position, you don't just mean on, but rather the cranking/starting position? While someone turns the key to the start position, use a long piece of wood to tap on the starter. It may be hung up on a "dead" spot. If this works, replace the starter (rebuilt Subaru only is the recommendation on the board) Edited July 17, 2019 by brus brother Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rverdoold Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 Could it also be if its an automatic that the ECU does think it is NOT in P or N. Quick try is to put key in On and cycle through the gears ending in N position. Not sure brake needs to be pressed for starting in N of P with handbrake on. Check if the brake lights go off when brake is applied and tried to start (second person or mirror), if so there is a short or battery is broken. For all other electrical, most help above is logical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 90%+ of the time this is a battery or battery connection issue. do not go replacing starters or alternators or unecessary things until the battery system has been properly gone through. A. what was the battery voltage? 12.XX....what is it if it was tested? B. any recent work done to the vehicle? C. how old is the battery? first steps - this looks long but it only takes a few minutes. go grab one of these for $3: https://www.harborfreight.com/battery-terminal-cleaner-94450.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products+-+Lower+Sales+Items|New+Products+-+(1)+Price+<%2410|94450&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=sZrVWypDk|pcrid|318476002950|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|94450|&pgrid=63088204786&ptaid=pla-298214602708&pcid=1654049980&intent=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxZfb_ZS84wIVBZ-fCh1QowLOEAQYAyABEgLpEPD_BwE 1. clean the battery posts - the parts sticking up off the battery - make them shiny 2. clean the battery cable terminals - the clamps that clamp the post. The insides need to be shiny metal 3. make sure the battery terminals are tight on the posts, you shouldn't be able to twist them by hand. 4. test the battery again or measure voltage and post what your sitting voltage is. "test" is fairly generic and 5. once the connections are all clean get a good set of jumper cables or jump pack - does the car start or turn over then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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