On the Forester SF I am about to replace my shocks and rear springs with more-or-less stock items. The present tired set-up, with aftermarket struts and the original 20 y.o. SLS stings, sits very low at the back. I’ll see how it settles and decide later if I will lift it further like I did with our other Forester.

 My question is whether anyone recommends slacking off the suspension component bolts when changing suspension geometry, whether it be a simple overhaul or a lift? Trailing arms, radius arms etc..

I can’t help thinking that this would aid greatly the installation of certain parts, and prevent additional torsion in the numerous bushings once the geometry has been changed. I have never read this in the hundreds of lift threads, but I did once see it done in a wheel alignment video.

 Can anyone say whether it is a necessary or at least sensible idea?

 

 Thanks

2 hours ago, Mitchy said:

My question is whether anyone recommends slacking off the suspension component bolts when changing suspension geometry, whether it be a simple overhaul or a lift? Trailing arms, radius arms etc..

Sounds like a good idea. That is one reason I like the alignment racks that you drive the car on and the car weight is on the wheels when you tighten those bolts.

Yes, do it. Your suspension bushes will thank you for it, especially if they’re old. 

Cheers 

Bennie

In the words of Ronald Regan;

“I distinctly remember not being told that” when I overhauled and 1” lifted our first Forester, and as a possible result there has always been some muffled clunking over bumps.
I left the original bushes all around other than the front suspension rear CA and steering rack bushes. This green Forester will get pretty much the same treatment.

 

 Thanks for your input 

 

 

Edited February 25, 20206 yr by Mitchy

Yes, when changing ride height, the "correct" procedure is to loosen the bolt for any bushing that twists around the bushing during travel and retorque it at ride height.