June 25, 20205 yr This is NOT any rebuild project. My only purpose is to learn more the old stuff. 1.) Getting to the piston wrist pins was a formidable task for me. You guys have done it a hundred times, I know. I started with a 14mm bolt and a larger pipe wrench. No go. Just look at that poor bolt. I tried propane heat. No go. Then I gave the plug a "love tap" with a 15lb sledge hammer. That finally worked. As this is scrap I was not concerned very much.
June 25, 20205 yr Author Tear down part two - At 326,000 miles it was still a good runner. Non-turbo FWD 5 spd. But oil leaks came on heavy and I unknowingly ran it at dangerously low oil level, until I heard what sounded not good and limped the two miles back home. Back at home I made the audio here of what may be piston slap. Jump ahead a month later and it looks like cyl #4 piston was the source of the slap, but I'm only guessing. #4 cyl wall has visible marks but no scoring. And, FWIW, the end of #4 con rod (where wrist pin goes) has a side play of .038" which just seems like too much play, at least to a newbie such as I. Some audio and pics here. Old EA82 after low on oil.mp3 Edited June 25, 20205 yr by rickyhils Add info to photo.
June 25, 20205 yr Author Tear down part three. Not sure but crank shaft look to still be ok. There is that pit in one of the cylinders. What caused that?
June 25, 20205 yr Author Educational Tear down part four. Cyl #1 crank connector. Does the crank connector look ok? Might a decent mechanic just measure the crank shaft and if still up to spec just polish the journals, put in standard bearings, and go with that? New pistons but keep the connecting rods? Edited June 25, 20205 yr by rickyhils Add pics
June 25, 20205 yr Keep the oil pump and all the belt drive cogs off crank and cams Ricky. The EA81 gudgeon pin extraction tool Part # SUB 399094310 STEPPY Made from an old head bolt if some old Ford, ground down to make use of a lip. Plain mild steel rod then drilled, tapped same thread female as head bolt, add slide handle from steam pipe, washers etc. Strong enough to pull block around floor as I ease gp out
June 25, 20205 yr Author 23 minutes ago, Step-a-toe said: Keep the oil pump and all the belt drive cogs off crank and cams Ricky. Made from an old head bolt if some old Ford, ground down to make use of a lip. Plain mild steel rod then drilled, tapped same thread female as head bolt, add slide handle from steam pipe, washers etc. Yes. First thing I did was remove the oil pump parts, spray them with PB blaster, and put them into a heavy plastic bag. And, a good tip there, will now save all cog gears from cam and crank. I run with no front TB covers, so any smooth turning TB adjusters and idlers I'll also put aside.
June 25, 20205 yr Author 3 hours ago, DaveT said: A for real hex key wrench gets those plugs out no problem. What made the difference was when the plug was heated up with a butane torch.
June 27, 20205 yr On 6/26/2020 at 1:17 AM, rickyhils said: What made the difference was when the plug was heated up with a butane torch. And with the correct tool you lean on it then give a quick shove and it breaks free So are you now looking at rebuilding this engine? You sort of hinted at this in one of your posts above. Cheers Bennie
June 27, 20205 yr Author 2 hours ago, el_freddo said: And with the correct tool you lean on it then give a quick shove and it breaks free So are you now looking at rebuilding this engine? You sort of hinted at this in one of your posts above. Cheers Bennie An impact power tool would have been nice. [ Harbor Fright Earthquake Impact gun] What is the correct tool? How would I give a quick shove and have it break free? Rebuild this? EA82? The sane and unanimous answer would be "no". By the time this Loyale might need another engine, the body- suspension - electrical- cooling - steering might be too far gone. (@ 65 years old, I myself might be too far gone). An incorrigible "backyard mechanic" (such as I) might get the crankshaft mic'd if only to see if original sized bearings could still be installed. But NO wasting money on crank grinding. And FORGET about boring the cylinders. If, and only if, I have the desire to learn about putting an engine together then I might consider it. If I have the opportunity and space to do it in. Then drop it in, listen to it self destruct, and then put the good engine back in. A FAIR AMOUNT OF LABOR. But inquiring minds want to know! But the main drawbacks are: - Lack of knowledge and experience - Need a few specialized tools - No extra engine parts available - HIGH leaning curve - TOO many things to royally screw up! Now the good news: Who cares if I mess it up? If it blows up I'll just open a Stone Pale Ale, light up a smoke, and just have a laugh. The only loss on parts would be bearings, pistons, rings, OEM engine internal oil seals, head gaskets, tube of ultra-gray. If it runs ok I can mothball the currently good engine for a while. *** ALL THE ABOVE IS MY IMAGINATION AT FULL TILT *** Edited June 27, 20205 yr by rickyhils
June 27, 20205 yr I got an L shapes hex wrench for those plugs years ago. Never had a problem getting them out.
June 27, 20205 yr The tool I use is a 14mm hex on a socket. So I lean on my breaker bar and give it a good shove to crack it free. Fair call on the rebuild. When you were talking bearings I thought your plans had changed! Cheers Bennie
June 27, 20205 yr Oh yeah, step one is if you know engine is coming apart, access and crack open front gudgeon plugs while still in car. I have often needed some flame for the one behind water pump. Same as Bennie, I shelled out for half inch drive socket with 14 mm hex and sneak up on the others with a long breaker bar
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