UnorganizedMechanic Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 8 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said: You do realize that a "full rebuild" is essentially impossible due to lack of parts right? The oil pumps for the EA81 have been discontinued for many years now. GD I've heard of the horror stories of finding oil pumps for sure. My intent is a full rebuild as much as I can, not replacing parts. Gaskets, o-rings and, the speed gods willing, piston rings without needing a cylinder boring. Thanks you for the heads up on the oil pump though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DV-523 Posted August 29, 2020 Author Share Posted August 29, 2020 No worries! It's been a minute since I've got to work on it, but I've finally got them out and found nearly identical replacement bolts at Tacoma screw. I'm excited to get the Cylinder heads back on the car and get it going again! Thanks for all the advice! The quarter turn forward and back worked best for me. I did not use penetrating oil, but not because I didn't think it'd help. Just don't have any! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Step-a-toe Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 My mate from El Salvador uses cooking oil ! Did the job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 In one test I read, 50:50 acetone and ATF worked better than 3-4 fluids sold as penetrating oil ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuspiciousPizza Posted Thursday at 12:15 PM Share Posted Thursday at 12:15 PM I've been having a related issue with my intake manifold ('89 GL SPFI) I've been cleaning up. I had some seized bolts (not intake manifold mounting bolts, rather bolts that threaded into the manifold to mount misc accessories) so I soaked the manifold in evaporust. I got the bolts removed, but my heater hose pipe (p/n 14070AA011) is stuck and I cannot remove it. I worry that the evaporust may have partially penetrated the sealant. As such I'd like to remove the heater hose pipe and reapply sealant to prevent the risk of a coolant leak. Does anyone have any tips or tricks? I thought of bending an induction heater coil around the heater hose pipe near where it meets the intake manifold and use that to heat the sealant and soften it. I'd imagine a blow torch would work too, but an induction heater should produce more localized heat. Thanks :] P.S. I'm talking about the metal pipe that sockets into the bottom of the intake manifold. The larger diameter pipe, not the smaller one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted 20 hours ago Share Posted 20 hours ago I think just a hell of a lot of back n forth, up n down, heat, penetrant, prayers, voodoo dolls, whatever you’ve got. Going back to the intake manifold bolts and their holes I would not hesitate to check the threads and run a tap down them, bottoming tap if possible. You’re in territory we’ve left long ago. But our memories aren’t so faded. Those intake bolts and their holes get a lot of corrosion no matter where you live and they are notoriously difficult. Given you’ve got yours out comfortably maybe you’ll get lucky and they’ll seat with enough torque again. But I would not place good odds on that happening. For sure you should use some Loctite. What I’ve done and others is use an insert, not a heli-coil. The Brand I use is TimeSerts and they’re a little more but you’ll be able to remove your bolts with ease and send them back in again. Your choice and I don’t blame you if you just use Loctite and call it a day. Just be aware those are old and we’ve been there. I would not count on any old sealant that’s been cured for ages resetting itself at this point. I thought those were just pressed in. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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