Hello everyone, new to the forum here. 

As the title states I have a bit of a problem, I'd like some thoughts on before taking the next steps. I have a 2012 manual subaru impreza. I had a bad release bearing so I went to repair it. While doing so I also replaced the clutch and had the flywheel resurfaced. I dropped the transmission instead of pulling the motor. I put everything back together and now it will crank but wont start. 

Honestly, I was not expecting this problem, but here we are. To me it sounds like it's getting fuel when I turn on the key. Plus I didn't mess with the fuel system really at all. I am leaning toward a problem with spark. Maybe I wiring problem resulting from working on it. Any suggestions for troubleshooting where the electrical problem is would be great. 

Recheck your connectors for the MAF and that the airbox and hoses are properly installed. 

Spark, Gas, cranck.  Do you have spark?  If so you can add a cap of gas to the intake and see if it starts.

 

Check the large connectors at the pass side bell housing. Make sure they are snapped in correctly.  

Vacuum hose isn't reconnected or one of the plug isn't plugged in/fully seated

Verify all connections are fully seated and proper - O2 sensor from dropping exhaust, trans connector, any engine connectors disconnected. 

Check for vacuum leaks - intake manifold hoses and the brake booster vacuum hose is particularly easy to forget or not have fully seated. 

2 hours ago, idosubaru said:

- O2 sensor from dropping exhaust

Yes, that connector is easy to forget.

Thanks guys for the responses. I only really get to work on it during the weekend so please excuse the delays. 

I've gone over the connections. Unplugged and replugged. So far no dice. 

I got a suggestion to check the tach when it's trying to start from one of the videos I watched. He was saying it should be reading the RPMs the starter generates. I am stuck at zero. This would indicate a problem with the crank shaft sensor? 

Now I really don't believe in coincidences so I doubt the sensor is bad. It has to be something dealing with the work I did. Pinched a wire or something along those lines. Is there anything else I could have done while changing the clutch and flywheel that would mess up the crank shaft sensor? 

exhaust smell like fuel?

 

anyway, when you find the problem, if it seems like it still won't start, hold the pedal to the floor while cranking in case the cylinders are flooded. That signals the ECU to 'clear flood condition'.

Update: 

It's not the crankshaft position sensor. I replaced it and still the same. I must say getting to it is a pain and it decided to separate and leave a bit in the hole. Took some work but got it replaced. 

Also no codes which is typically a good thing but it would be nice to have a lead here. 

I'm pretty much down to I have the flywheel or maybe the ring for the crank position sensor plate clocked wrong . I'm going to do some more investigation before I drop the transmission again. This maybe one of those mistakes you only do once because of the amount of work it is to fix a simple problem. Picture is page 7 in the attached file. 1 General Description.pdf

Edited August 9, 20205 yr by DoubleBogey

I would expect a crank or cam sensor or variable valve gear (if equipped) code if there was an issue with timing. 

you can probably freeze frame the data while starting and someone who knows could tell right away wether the cam and crank are out of synch.  But I don’t know how to do that.

Ok guys. I wanted tomake a final resolution post and help some poor fella down the road. I was correct that the crank shaft position sensor disk was clocked. My lack of attention to detail won me the prize of starting over and repulling the transmission. Once the hole in the disk was matched with the pin and re assembled the computer sent spark. Still confused as to why I didn't get a code for messed up timing. 

Anyway thank you all for taking the time to help out. And I hope this thread will help someone in the future.