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XT6 won't crank, out of ideas

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Actually forget all of this for a moment - it just popped into my head, XT6's have a little tiny phillips head screw on the back of the ignition that gets loose over time. 

Find the 4 wire (i think) black electrical connector for the ignition solenoid.  Follow the wires all the way back to where they're soldered onto the back of the ignition.  A few millimeters away from the wires you'll see a tiny phillips head screw - tighten it. It's been awhile since i've done one, you might need a right angle screw driver.  There's a very high chance it's loose and limiting contact. 

Once you check this screw then go back to the relay.

Edited by idosubaru

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  • If it’s green like that pic do no throw it away. It’s gold - 100x more reliable than any brand you can buy from stores new. Regrease and reboot and they’ll last the life of the vehicle usually. Afterm

  • linkthehero1234
    linkthehero1234

    another update, left battery to charge for a while and now it starts

  • Awesome!  So you think the cables were bad?   In case it comes back keep these things in mind:  1. replace the starter contacts.  Starter is 2 12mm bolts and easy to remove.  Disassemble it

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  • Author
7 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

when it fails to crank, do you hear the 'click' of the solenoid?

yes

  • Author
18 minutes ago, idosubaru said:

Actually forget all of this for a moment - it just popped into my head, XT6's have a little tiny phillips head screw on the back of the ignition that gets loose over time. 

Find the 4 wire (i think) black electrical connector for the ignition solenoid.  Follow the wires all the way back to where they're soldered onto the back of the ignition.  A few millimeters away from the wires you'll see a tiny phillips head screw - tighten it. It's been awhile since i've done one, you might need a right angle screw driver.  There's a very high chance it's loose and limiting contact. 

Once you check this screw then go back to the relay.

the solenoid is just 1 wire, but just tighten a screw near the connector for the key switch?

10 hours ago, linkthehero1234 said:

the solenoid is just 1 wire, but just tighten a screw near the connector for the key switch?

I'm not talking about the starter, I meant to say "igition cylinder" not ignition solenoid.  I'm talking about inside the vehicle. Look up under the steering wheel.  Find where the wires are soldered onto the back of the ignition cylinder.  There's a tiny phillips head screw there.  Tighten it.  It comes loose and causes the board the wires are soldered on to walk back away and reduce contact with the switch.  I can't recall if the bottom steering column cover needs to come off and I'm at work right now so I can't go look at mine, but if it does be very careful.  They have long threaded rods you can see that readily break and the covers themselves break.  They aren't available from Subaru and are hard to find because everyone needs them. 

  • Author

ok so i didnt fix the key switch since i dont have the right screwdriver but i took it for a drive yesterday and after a few minutes white smoke that smelled like burnt rubber came from the engine, the temp gauge looked fine tho, is this a bad head gasket?

  • Author

just looked where it looked like the smoke was coming from and there's a broken cv axle right over the exhaust, could this be the problem?

you mean split CVJ boot? yeah, when that grease is slung onto hot exhaust, it stinks. If it happened very recently, you can grease and re-boot the joint.

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan

11 hours ago, linkthehero1234 said:

just looked where it looked like the smoke was coming from and there's a broken cv axle right over the exhaust, could this be the problem?

Yes. You need a new boot or axle. If by luck the inner joint is green that’s OEM, replace the boot and keep that quality axle.  All aftermarket Subaru axle brands  are terrible.  

12 hours ago, linkthehero1234 said:

ok so i didnt fix the key switch since i dont have the right screwdriver 

I think I use these on that screw. they also work for holding the unique xt6 only drivers side timing tensioners. 
 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-3-Piece-Steel-Handle-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver-Set/1000596621?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-ggl-_-LIA_TOL_218_Mechanic-Automotive-Tools-_-1000596621-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gbraid=0AAAAAD2B2W8VmsOQLvD1S3AoW7QlM1MdO&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2IWxrdS5_AIVlb7ICh21gAgQEAQYASABEgIDHfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Edited by idosubaru

  • Author
On 1/8/2023 at 8:33 PM, idosubaru said:

Yes. You need a new boot or axle. If by luck the inner joint is green that’s OEM, replace the boot and keep that quality axle.  All aftermarket Subaru axle brands  are terrible.  

the joint is black but the grease in it is dark green, is that what you meant?

58 minutes ago, linkthehero1234 said:

the joint is black but the grease in it is dark green, is that what you meant?

No. He is saying that the large metal cylindrical part to the inside of the axle is usually a medium green color if it is OEM. See image for green color reference.

3824034474_f69447d20e.jpg

10 hours ago, azdave said:

No. He is saying that the large metal cylindrical part to the inside of the axle is usually a medium green color if it is OEM. See image for green color reference.

3824034474_f69447d20e.jpg

If it’s green like that pic do no throw it away. It’s gold - 100x more reliable than any brand you can buy from stores new. Regrease and reboot and they’ll last the life of the vehicle usually. Aftermarkets fail in multiple ways and are true garbage. They’re made so poorly because laziness and shop time wins over replacing the boot. 

  • Author
3 minutes ago, idosubaru said:

If it’s green like that pic do no throw it away. It’s gold - 100x more reliable than any brand you can buy from stores new. Regrease and reboot and they’ll last the life of the vehicle usually. Aftermarkets fail in multiple ways and are true garbage. They’re made so poorly because laziness and shop time wins over replacing the boot. 

it's not, its black or brown

2 hours ago, linkthehero1234 said:

it's not, its black or brown

I think the xt6 oem cv's were black. Don,t toss it, if it is not making noise yet, just clean, regrease, reboot and run it. Btw, the retainer pin only fits 1 way!  The cv will slip on any spline,, the pin will seem to be ok in 2 places,, no, pin can start but will not align all the way through, only 1 is correct. Outer cv can be serviced while you have the inner one off, but they don't come off, just flush it out and repack grease,  slip new boot over shaft.

Do both boots while the shaft is out, and use a quality boot and a CV band tool. You’ll thank me later about the CV band tool ;) 

Cheers 

Bennie

12 hours ago, Rupart said:

I think the xt6 oem cv's were black. Don,t toss it, if it is not making noise yet, just clean, regrease, reboot and run it. Btw, the retainer pin only fits 1 way!  The cv will slip on any spline,, the pin will seem to be ok in 2 places,, no, pin can start but will not align all the way through, only 1 is correct. Outer cv can be serviced while you have the inner one off, but they don't come off, just flush it out and repack grease,  slip new boot over shaft.

I always wondered how far back the green inner joint paint was used. 80s? 70s?

If the solenoid is clicking, but the starter won't turn, it may be the contacts inside the starter motor that get made when the solenoid pulls in.  They get worn and burnt.  Tapping on the starter might help a bit, it kind of stirs up the contact so a new bit comes into play, but it only works a few times.     It is probably easier to replace the contacts than it is to find them to purchase....  I did it once on a Loyale, 10 minutes to get the starter out, 10 minute to pull it apart and change the contacts, and 10 minutes more to replace it. 

8 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

I always wondered how far back the green inner joint paint was used. 80s? 70s?

EA82 are green - so starting in 1985 at least. Unsure about earlier EA81. 

2 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

wow, getting close to 50 years of the green lol.

Please don't say it that way!  reaching the era where finding an OEM one on the vehicle is practically impossible. 

Edited by idosubaru

  • Author
On 1/10/2023 at 9:32 PM, Rupart said:

I think the xt6 oem cv's were black. Don,t toss it, if it is not making noise yet, just clean, regrease, reboot and run it. Btw, the retainer pin only fits 1 way!  The cv will slip on any spline,, the pin will seem to be ok in 2 places,, no, pin can start but will not align all the way through, only 1 is correct. Outer cv can be serviced while you have the inner one off, but they don't come off, just flush it out and repack grease,  slip new boot over shaft.

i got an extra axle included in the pile of parts that came with the car and this one has good boots but doesn't have the part with the spline where it goes into the transmission, is it possible to take this off of the old axle and put it on the new one?

I have zero experience with an XT but, the 'stub axle' is probably held in with a roll pin (spring pin really) just move the stub over.

 

 

On 1/14/2023 at 9:04 PM, linkthehero1234 said:

i got an extra axle included in the pile of parts that came with the car and this one has good boots but doesn't have the part with the spline where it goes into the transmission, is it possible to take this off of the old axle and put it on the new one?

The stubby shaft stays with the transmission, it's not part of the axle. Punch the pin out (3/16" I think) and the axle slides right off the stubby shaft. Slide the new axle on and punch the pin back in. 

Keep in mind the axle only slides onto that stubby shaft one way.  The holes line up two ways but it can be 180 degrees off.  Look at the splines and how they are oriented with the holes.  One side the valley is in the middle, the other side the peak is in the middle of the hole. Hard to explain but just look at how the splines interact with the two holes in the CV alxe cup when you remove it and you'll see. 

On 1/15/2023 at 12:47 PM, 1 Lucky Texan said:

I have zero experience with an XT but, the 'stub axle' is probably held in with a roll pin (spring pin really) just move the stub over.

 

 

You guessed right. They are configured and installed exactly like EJ axles.  I have EJ axles on mine (though it takes some extra steps to convert, they don't directly swap although I've seen people do it before!). 

  • Author

got a screwdriver stuck in the pin trying to push it out and a drill bit trying to push the screwdriver out, the inner part is 1/16 inch but i don't have a punch that small to push the screwdriver out

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