January 17, 20233 yr Author ok good news i got the screwdriver out (tried to cut it with bolt cutters and it just came right out) bad news is now my 3/16 punch is stuck where the screwdriver was 😕
January 17, 20233 yr 30 minutes ago, linkthehero1234 said: got a screwdriver stuck in the pin trying to push it out and a drill bit trying to push the screwdriver out, the inner part is 1/16 inch but i don't have a punch that small to push the screwdriver out Oh yeah. They can get seriously wedged in there. If it’s an automatic you can remove the axle from the hub first. Then yank hard on the axle and it’ll pull the stubby shaft out of the trans. It’s just held in with a circlip. bw careful when it comes out that you don’t damage the shaft seal in the trans then you can at least work at it on easier or ask a machine shop to do it. Ive had plenty of objects jammed in there and gotten them out every time on the vehicle. Use a proper sized punch and tap it back the opposite way it was jammed in there while wiggling, wriggling and cussing for a long time. They’ve always come out but often with a lot of effort and tools available. a drill bit can work but they’re brittle and break easily with impact. If you had to try one again use them backwards so the drill side which is flat is entering the cv joint hole first. If it’s a manual the shaft can’t be removed and you have to get that hole freed up.
January 17, 20233 yr can't remember, just the biggest long drift style punch that fits. If there's clearance to rotate, punch from the other side. I have used a socket extension on a 'started' punch to drive it out from above. Edited January 19, 20233 yr by 1 Lucky Texan
January 18, 20233 yr I once took to the inner cup on the rear with a grinding disc - ground down the pin hole until I could slide the cv cup off the stub axle. After this I was able to remove the remains of the punch and cotter pin that were stuck in the middle of the hollow stub axle. I still used that shaft, since it was on the rear I just used some cable ties to hold it in place. They never snapped in the time they were in there. I’ve still got that shaft kicking around as a spare. All the best with it, never a fun job when you get one of these stuck, but you learn and avoid doing it again (usually!) Cheers Bennie
January 18, 20233 yr The roll pin is 6mm dia. If someone installed it 180 degrees off the pin will not drive through. if you can determine if that is the case (look to see if it extends out to the edge of both sides of the cv). i have found many installed incorrectly and they are a real pain to get the pin out, if yours is like this the pin has to come out from the side it was started in,, if it is in correctly it can punch through from either side. if it's in wrong you can use a smaller dia punch from the bad side ( you will be working with about 1/2 hole misalignment). Just hope you don't have this being your case..
January 18, 20233 yr once read of someone fighting an axle that was ~180 out. It had a nail instead of a roll pin jammed in it.
January 18, 20233 yr Author so turns out the pin broke inside the stub (no clue how i got it out) can i just get any 6mm pin and cut it down to size?
January 19, 20233 yr 4 hours ago, linkthehero1234 said: so turns out the pin broke inside the stub (no clue how i got it out) can i just get any 6mm pin and cut it down to size? Call local Subaru dealer. Pin is the same as all legacy Outback Forster Impreza 1990-2004 and later so probably in stock. Message me an address and I’ll ship you one. Use a local UPS store address if you don’t want to give out home address. I wouldn’t use “any 6mm pin”. I’ve used a variety of things before temporarily but it’s been awhile so I forget what. So try something but I’d consider anything but OEM a temp fix. I wouldn’t something else to not fatigue or rust over time.
January 19, 20233 yr I agree what he just said!! on another note, since you mentioned putting together an axle with on hand pieces. the xt6 cv is slightly larger than ea-82 4 cyl vehicle cv's, they have 25 splines like some ea-82 cv's, that is for the trans stubs. legacy cv has a male spline on trans end so they don't work on your trans. i'm not sure if the legacy actual shaft is same or not but i think they work if fitted with ea82 , or xt6 25 spline inner cv.
January 19, 20233 yr I bought this set - don't recall which punch I used lol https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDJXWDP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
January 19, 20233 yr Author 1 hour ago, 1 Lucky Texan said: I bought this set - don't recall which punch I used lol https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDJXWDP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 i have a similar set from harbor freight, ill post an update once i get a replacement pin
January 19, 20233 yr dunno about an XT6 but, the shifter on my WRX is held onto the shaft out of the trans with 2 pins....one INSIDE the other!
January 20, 20233 yr 2 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said: dunno about an XT6 but, the shifter on my WRX is held onto the shaft out of the trans with 2 pins....one INSIDE the other! Same for the L series. Pretty neat setup but I don’t fully understand why they did this. Cheers Bennie
January 20, 20233 yr Author also want to fix the weird wiring a previous owner setup because the thermoswitch died, what does this arrow with the K mean?
January 21, 20233 yr probably to look on another page of the schematic for the letter K to see where that leads.
January 21, 20233 yr On 1/20/2023 at 3:12 PM, linkthehero1234 said: also want to fix the weird wiring a previous owner setup because the thermoswitch died, what does this arrow with the K mean? Pardon my dumb question I'm sure I'm reading this wrong but are you sure that's the right thermoswitch you're looking for? Since it has a pressure switch I can only imagine that being the A/C or transmission - is that the thermoswitch someone wired funny? Correcting custom wiring can be confusign when you don't know what the previous owner did. Can you post a larger picture of that same diagram? Or tell me what section and page it's on (I Have XT6 FSM's).
January 22, 20233 yr Author 7 hours ago, idosubaru said: Pardon my dumb question I'm sure I'm reading this wrong but are you sure that's the right thermoswitch you're looking for? Since it has a pressure switch I can only imagine that being the A/C or transmission - is that the thermoswitch someone wired funny? Correcting custom wiring can be confusign when you don't know what the previous owner did. Can you post a larger picture of that same diagram? Or tell me what section and page it's on (I Have XT6 FSM's). after 142 in the electrical section, on the foldout section for the 2.7l in section b2
January 26, 20233 yr Author the part finally came but because im stupid i put it in with the stub on the axle instead of the transmission so i hammered it to try and get it in, now the threads and bolt on the outer end are ruined, can i salvage the end from the old axle and get a new bolt?
January 26, 20233 yr 11 hours ago, linkthehero1234 said: the part finally came but because im stupid i put it in with the stub on the axle instead of the transmission so i hammered it to try and get it in, now the threads and bolt on the outer end are ruined, can i salvage the end from the old axle and get a new bolt? What "part"? Axles don't have bolts, do you mean the 32 mm axle nut and threads it threads onto are damaged? Did you pound the outer CV joint threads that go through the hub and wheel bearing? As you found out, that compresses and damages the threads. Just the outer CV joint (with the 32mm threads/nut) can be removed and replaced, but it requires technique and a lot of force. But if the two axles aren't the made by same company I'm not sure they always play well together.
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now