Front knuckle bal joints.... lesson learned

[turboguzzi]

My 05 forester started doing clicks and clacks in the front suspension over low speed bumps, seems like its time for suspension ball joints. no fee play in the steering ones. 

Received already my skf joints, but before trying to install and getting stuck, some questions:

1. does my fork tool look like the right size and shape?

2.how bad is freeing the tapers on these? Car has no rust but the joints where never changed in 20 years..

3.any other tips in terms of work steps?

tnxs!

Edited 11 hours ago by turboguzzi

[nvu]

The tapers should be easy.  Your fork looks a bit big, it might rip the old rubber but it should work.

The pinch bolt on the knuckle that sometimes get so corroded it snaps in two.  Inspect and be careful.

Unlink the antiroll bar to make it easier to push down on the lower control arm.

[lmdew]

Big hammer on the front and rear of the lower arm.  Hit it hard and the taper will release.  I never used a fork, cause I don't have one.

 

[montana tom]

Just so you know – popping it free from the knuckle won't be your problem.

As mentioned, the pinch bolt is often seized and can shear off, you will need to drill that out if it happens.

Use a longer replacement bolt with a lock washer and nut.

The real issue will be getting the joint to release after the pinch bolt is removed.

They sell an expensive tool to pull them out, however, with some steel pipe fittings and a welder, you can make your own for under ten bucks.

[turboguzzi]

Well did the thing, so kinda pleased with myself, but also bummed....

dismounting went smooth, in italy they dont use salt on roads in winter, so cars here are very rust free, there was nothing frozen.

I did have to make a 1/8" U shaped plate to add height to my fork tool as it wasnt tall enough to separate the taper, easy. 10 mins with an angle grinder to make

second bigger issue was none of my fault, i mounted the first new ball in the arm, went to feed it into hole in the steering knuckle.... wont go in! Really?

Turns out the SKF bodies were machined oversized due to an error in the factory, 38,10mm instead of the 37,95mm it should be! how the hell this can happen is a mystery.

Options was to send them back to amazon and wait for new ones, but with the car on stands and the rubber boots destroyed during removal i couldnt go back to the old ones

Luckily i have a lathe and been able to take a lick off the diameter and bring it back to dimension, but gee.... what the heck

Now for the real bummer - As i was bolting back the torsion bar tie rods, i casually pulled on the bar and heard a knock.... well turns out that the free play making noise was in the tie rods, not the ball joints!!!!!

Indeed after lowering the car and driving with the new ball joints, clacking was still there. The old ball joints had no free play to begin with.

Ordered new tie rods, changed them in 10 minutes or so without even lifting the car, noise gone. Cant believe i did all the knuckle ball joints work (and SKF agravation) for nothing.

So lesson learned, check your stupid little tie rods before  changing your ball joints.