first of all, I wish I found this forum a year ago!. but now maybe you fine folk can help me sort out a problem.

 

1999 Forester L, manual trans, after it's warmed up and driving for a while (10 plus miles) it does a "thump thump thump" as well as a "grabbing" thing on the sterring strong enought to bounce the car a bit when going around tight corners, moreso to the left than right.

 

so far I have been told

 

CV Joint.

Transmission

Limited Slip Diff

Viscous Coupling

damedifIknow

 

money is tight, already had some fancy fluid added to the diff, no good there. any ideas on which way to go to deal with this problem? I can't afford to pick more than one option.

 

Scotty

Did you have the wheel bearings checked?

Thats kinda scary if you can feel it at the steering wheel when it happens. Makes me think something is VERY loose. Budget is tight? TIme to Do It Yourself Jack up the car on the side that you feel/hear the noise. Pull off that wheel and take a good look!

 

Grab onto things and give them a good yank. Look for stuff thats loose or obviously broken. Look for grease flung all over and try to locate its origine. Look down below at your ball joints. This is where the lower control arm meets the knuckle below your brake rotor. After you put the wheel back on but before you lower the car; grab the wheel and try to wiggle it. It should be tight and not able to wiggle to/from you.

 

By atleast looking you might find it and then you can TELL the shop what you want done. Then you can call around and get estimates on the job you know that needs done.

stop driving it until it is checked....it sounds like you may well have a front axle problem....

You don't mention the mileage but you can lose a wheel bearing in as little as 60K. Drive train problems are not impossible, but rare.

 

If you go to a parking lot and do slow figure 8's, the clunk will speed up or slow down on one side if it's and axle, CV joint, or bearing.

 

If it's an axle or CV joint, you should hear a metallic click or some sort of noise when stationary and you shift back and forth between 1st and Reverse.

 

If you don't hear anything while stationary, it's more likely to be a wheel bearing. If you don't have it repaired quickly you will trash the brake rotor on that side, and will wind up replacing the front rotors and brake pads along with the wheel bearing.

 

If it's grabbing to one side either the bearing is really far gone or you more likely have some other front suspension problems. Neglecting it will multiply your repair bill.

Also, if it is a bearing, there were some Forester MYs where people have been replacing the stock bearings with the ones from the Legacy of that MY. It's a different type of bearing, but a direct swap and a much better deal.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11848 for a how2

 

I am guessing from personal experience that you have a broken outer "cage" on the left side, and are possibly missing a ball requiring you to replace the left side axle shaft

 

If you don't have the $80+ for a rebuilt unit, then you can just pull the stub shaft from the main shaft and use RWD

I had the same problem on my old DL 1.8 Wagon.It was the Cv joint gone bad, due to lack of grease( split boot). Repair was not too expensive, using a second hand part. I dont know what a new one would cost, but being Subaru I think it may be quite a lot of dosh. As others have mentioned, if you jack up the car and try to wiggle the wheel , you will hear the clunk and see the CV move in a strange fashion. This movement should be checked horuzontally. If you get wheel movenent shaking perpindiculary, then its a wheel bearing/hub gone bad.

Wheel bearings normally "hum" when going bad , rather than "clunk".

This sure sounds like the rear differetial on the tranny is shot. You drive 10 miles and the clutch pack heat up and then won't release going around a turn. Wheel bearings won't clunk they hum (as posted earlier) when they get load goiung around a bend at speed. A bad CV joint won't take ten miles to "thunk"

 

Try removing the rear drive shaft. Not sure how the forester is set up but if it is like the Outback then just remove the rear half of the shaft. The front half will hang from the carrier bearing and stay out of the way.

 

Once the front and rear wheels are seperated you should notice the binding going around bends. If this isn't the problem then you can reinstall the drive shaft and keep looking.

 

Hope this helps,

Peter

first of all, I wish I found this forum a year ago!. but now maybe you fine folk can help me sort out a problem.

 

1999 Forester L, manual trans, after it's warmed up and driving for a while (10 plus miles) it does a "thump thump thump" as well as a "grabbing" thing on the sterring strong enought to bounce the car a bit when going around tight corners, moreso to the left than right.

 

so far I have been told

 

CV Joint.

Transmission

Limited Slip Diff

Viscous Coupling

damedifIknow

 

money is tight, already had some fancy fluid added to the diff, no good there. any ideas on which way to go to deal with this problem? I can't afford to pick more than one option.

 

Scotty

Sounds like binding indeed. Are your tires exactly same size?

Any follow-up?

wow! thanks for all the replies guys! sorry I haven't been back but the computer decided crap out as well.

 

ok, lets see. in order.

 

I THINK I've had the wheel berings checked (it's been looked at by 4 differnt mechanics), but I will double check that.

 

Morgan: it seems to be pretty much even now, slightly more on the left side I think (my wife thinks it's more on the right side)

 

millage is in the mid 90's

 

I'll try the figure 8 thing Ranger., thanks

 

there is a VERY clear "click" when stationary and shifting from first to reverse, just as it's hitting or comeing out of reverse.

 

Urabus: they have pulled off all 4 wheels, rotated them, did the wiggle thing. all seemed solid. the dealer seems to be leaning twards replaceing the Viscus coupling. $800-$1000 bucks. (so far they have "fixed" my breaks three times and they still squeel and the car had $1200.00 worth of repairs within 30 days of me buying it, I DON'T trust the dealer)

 

I had the tires checked, all same size.

 

I'll try that figure 8 thing, and see about getting the rear end diconected ptrbilt

 

thanks much guys, now at least I have some ideas.

 

Scotty

there is a VERY clear "click" when stationary and shifting from first to reverse, just as it's hitting or comeing out of reverse.

I'd get a second opinion, as that sounds like an axle. Just had one replaced, total was about $210.

I'd get a second opinion, as that sounds like an axle. Just had one replaced, total was about $210.

front or rear Ranger? and that I amount I can deal with. as long as I don't have to do the "well, we thought it was the viscus coupling, but we replaced that at $900.00 and it still does it, lets try this other $800.00 thing" routine..

 

and I did the figure 8 thing, more left than right.

 

I'll bounce your ideas off the one mechanic I trust on this, thanks again guys, I'll keep you updated.

Sounds mostly like it could be the inner DOJs on the axle assemblies. If you look at your axle from tire/hub to tranny its kinda like this

 

-<>===[ ]=

 

The - stub axle on the left end there, then the <> CV joint on the outside end, then the ==== axle shaft itself and finally [ ] the DOJ that goes onto the = splined stubs on the tranny. Usually the outer CVs go first cuz they take more abuse; having to turn, articulate and still rotate at the same time. Inner DOJs can wear out also tho and make a similar 'click' or 'pop' when shifting gears or taking off especially.

 

Id get the axles checked out before coind the V.coupler! That thing is expensive 0_0

 

Good luck

just came from my mechanic, seems he asked around and 4 or 5 other Forester owners are haveing the same problem. Viscous Coupling, $900.00.

 

anyone want to buy a 1999 Forester?

just came from my mechanic, seems he asked around and 4 or 5 other Forester owners are haveing the same problem. Viscous Coupling, $900.00.

 

anyone want to buy a 1999 Forester?

Just remove the rear drive shaft and you've got a fully functional FWD Forester.

 

A junk yard center differential should only cost you $200-$300.

 

Good Luck,

Peter

Years late for your car, but the key clue is that the binding only happens when the car is WARM.  Therefore it is a fluid problem.

First try at a fix:  Replace your front differential fluid.  I used 3.5 quarts of Lucas Synthetic gear oil.

That worked on my 2001 Forester with manual transmission.  2 years ago, and no problems since.