I have a 1990 Loyale and its breaks are squeeking when I step on them atfirst thought it was just cause they were dirty cause it doesnt do it all the time but now it does it all the time I took the tire off and I cant see the pads through the housing and I cant figure out how to take the house off it looks a lil different than my impreza if anyone has pics or can help me out I would appreciate it

Okay take the wheel off then look at the caliper, on the side that faces the back of the car there is a little cutout that you should be able to see the rotor sandwitched between the pads.

yeah there's an oval inspection window

 

 

the caliper comes off (oh baby) via two 17 or 15 mm bolts on the engine side of the caliper, kinda tucked in there

Squeeking from the front; right? Hopefully the squeek is just the indicator tab on your front pads. As noted pull off the wheel and look at the pads. See if the indicator tab is touching your rotor surface with the E brake on.

 

In the rear if it's squeeking it usually is a shoe that kinda twists when you hit the brakes. Then the metal edge(s) of the shoes rub on the drums making a squeek.

yeah there's an oval inspection window

 

 

the caliper comes off (oh baby) via two 17 or 15 mm bolts on the engine side of the caliper, kinda tucked in there

 

If it's the driver's side turn the wheel all the way to the right ( all the way to the left if passenger ). You don't have to take the caliper off the spindle to change the pads. True, there are two bolts to remove the caliper, but there is one smaller bolt at the bottom of the caliper that once you pop it out, the caliper will swing out from the top to expose the pads. Take care not to mess up the little metal thingies in there as they don't come with the new pads.

 

The piston needs to be turned back into the caliper - NOT PUSHED with a C-CLAMP. There are special tools that you can use to do this, but I usually just use a common wrench to fit in between the little bumps on the face of the piston. Do not put a wrench or vise-grips on the outer edges of the piston as you'll score it all up and cause a leak. You'll see what I mean once you have it all apart.

 

Jack the entire front end up if you can. This way you can consult with the other side of the car if you forget how things go back together, etc.

 

You may have to scoop some brake fluid out of the master cylinder to make room as the fluid gets pushed back up into the system when you push the pistons in. Don't expose any of the bits in the bottom of the master cylinder or you'll end up having to bleed the brakes. Not a bad idea to bleed them now anyway though...

 

It's not a hard job at all, just be patient.

that is alot harder than my imprezas oh man but I will do it so the e-brake uses the front wheels on loyales? unless I read something wrong I wil lread it again just incase

yep ebrake works on the front in these cars.

isnt that crazy does it lock up the rear aswell? cause i had it up on jack stands with the ebrake on and it didnt roll back or anything but yah breaks still have a long life ahead of them I checked so I sprayed some brake cleaner on it and took it for a lil drive round the block no squeeking but we will see if it starts up again

http://www.geocities.com/matsut_rpi00/brake_fix.html

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=29

I could go on but if you want to make it easy on both of us, click on the USRM-Repair and Mod at the top of this page. Miles Fox has done some outstanding work for us all. The first site I mentioned has some pictures.

One thing I never saw mentiopned was that you will have to line up the grooves on the piston with the dimples on the pads in order to slide them in and close the caliper. Good luck.